To expand on Bob's point, of the $300 I mentioned, $150 of it was the vacuum pump and the gauges -- which you are going to need if you DIY a full-on modern aftermarket system -- so that is not wasted money, even if you later decide to "go big".

Also, you will gain lots of new friends in the "hood" with your new gear. July especially.

I can't recall if I mentioned the 30lb R134 tank for $100?

I was trying to point out with pictures what several here failed to comprehend in words. Might want to check the prescription on your beer glasses. -J

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...s/beerchug.gif

I just had my compressor replaced. The clutch was engaging and compressor was hot. They told me that I had a blockage as well. Replaced compressor dryer and expansion valve. It was blowing at 47 degrees after that.
Good Luck

Just this week when I had all my A/C hoses pulled off and was thinking, hey I have a friend who works at our local Parker store and figured I could save a ton of money. So, ran down there with all the hoses and I thought he was going to choke. First of all, they didn't even carry more than half the hose fittings. Second, they would have to cut the "U" shaped fitting that is used on the rear condenser and weld a tube in ($75 - $100 for the weld). Then he says in a nice way, "this isn't a job, it's a project and can't even quote you a price". I sheepishly grabbed my hoses and went home with my tail between my legs. I ate a lot of crow and then called and ordered a new set from Kuehl. Cheap? no, but then you always get what you pay for.

It looks dented. What can I say? I'm a loser, so why don't ya kill me.SmileWavy

FWIW. On a definite side note, my daughter and I visited the U of Texas two years ago. She shot pics of the clock tower area where they were trying to take out Charles Whitman. She had a fancy camera. She did the reverse Heisenburg uncertainty principle thing like you did with the dryer pic and the holes in the structure really became clear.

Sorry to Hijack this this thread but I will shortly (within the next 10 month at my rate of getting things done) be rebuilding my A/C system with barrier hoses but using Freon and in looking for a new drier.
Pelican shows 3 starting at $36.00 to $170.00 why the big difference?

Thanks Lorne M.

$170 gets you an OEM o-ring type, good for 1984-1989 years.

$36 gets you an aftermarket o-ring type, good for 1984-1989 years.

$69 gets you "Kuehl" which can be used for flare or o-ring types, 1969-1989,
certified to work with either R12 or R134a (having XH9 type desiccant), plus
installation instructions and other necessary items related to drier install, and
technical support from Kuehl.

Apologies. I had the day off and spent it on sleeping in, golf and lots of beer. No Porsche for me.

I will not, however, leave you empty handed. For those more willing to interpret images over my statements, I squirted a bit of water and wiped down the drier... still not dented.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1400883476.jpg

Just for your entertainment as I fully intend to replace it.

Tomorrow, I will try to put some gauges on the system and/ or go back to the original shop (although I am beginning to not trust them).

When sober, I will also order up some parts as I try not to mix drinking and online purchase mode. :)

Have a great weekend everyone!

A picture is worth a thousand words they say.

Sorry I misinterpreted it.

I am glad you are going to tackle this yourself.

Kuehl stuff is top-notch. Just don't mis-spell his name or he'll slap you. I think you should change the expansion valve while you change the receiver/drier.

"camera lens distortion or some funky picture editing going" lol!

Oh, that's why the picture was distorted. Yup, happens to me if I
drink Bud instead of Becks.

Hah! Only cleaning after drinking.

Quick update. You can borrow gauges from autozone for free and I got a brand new set. I accidentally released a bit to atmo getting the dang low side connected but at rest the system was 55# and running with controls maxed and at idle it was 10/100#. Also, the TXV was colder on the bottom than the side so I guess it is working but just suffering from lack of refrigerant.

So, it appears I have a leak somewhere and likely an incompetent or untruthful mechanic.

Any recommendations while I have the gauge set or should I get the system evacuated in preparation for disassembly?

Open it up and get on with it. You got "four" ounces in there and you have lost 25 or more.

Oh, he knows how to check a system for leaks. This is pure lazy or his boss is beating on him to churn cars and he can't afford to take the time.

One of the beauties of DIY work. Low cost, good quality if you are diligent but you will not make shop rate.

I have taken my car to one shop for a mechanical repairs (excluding tires/alignment and body shop). It will never go back there again. Outright dishonesty. I'm doing everything on my car including the A/C. I would go broke doing this for a living but I prefer knowing the job is done right. I have all the parts from Griffiths. I have 2 more small projects in the queue before I get started.

I have a suggestion, throw some refrigerant in it and drive the car. When you have it gassed up, look for refrigerant oil that is a telltale sign of a leak or a proximity of where the leak is. Rather than removing every part and replacing, find the leak, fix it and move on. If you can't find oil, go get a R134 leak detector and sniff out the problem. You could replace seals and still not fix the leak because it could be on the coil ends of the evaporator or condensers at the front and rear.