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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 3,112
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In a modern car, an AC may have an auto function. It continuously monitors the temp in the cabin and adjust. THESE ARE NOT MODERN CARS OR MODERN AC SYSTEMS. STOP TRYING TO COMPARE SYSTEMS. Your adding variables that have nothing to do with cooling in these old girls...keep it simple...
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Rey....77 930 "the Mistress" |
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Last edited by wwest; 08-27-2014 at 09:46 AM.. |
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Banned
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Rockwall, Texas
Posts: 8,559
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^^^ wwest, your assumptions about general human comfort standards, and the idea that cool/cold air blowing on one's person (in hot/humid weather - aka: when a/c is most used) increases discomfort levels, are way off base. How can you assume to speak to the comfort needs of all human beings living in every imaginable climate? Get real, man - aren't you feeling the pinch of embarrassment over the absurdity of your remarks?
Last edited by Ronnie's.930; 08-27-2014 at 09:53 AM.. |
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Rockwall, Texas
Posts: 8,559
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Last edited by Ronnie's.930; 08-27-2014 at 01:24 PM.. |
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Banned
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: The Wet Side
Posts: 5,675
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http://www.energy.wsu.edu/Documents/10_spr_iaq_nl.pdf Manipulate the chart yourself... Try setting the air temperature to 0 Centigrade and the air movement/flow anywhere on the chart... http://wiki.naturalfrequency.com/wiki/Human_Comfort Page 11... http://www.labeee.ufsc.br/antigo/arquivos/publicacoes/Thermal_Booklet.pdf Last edited by wwest; 08-27-2014 at 04:02 PM.. |
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Home, window air conditioner. Enough cooling BTUs for the entire room or not enough so you must set closely in the dry/cool (""icebox" cold?) "discomforting" outflow in order to be "comfortable". Which would YOU choose? Be that as it may, has anyone, ANYONE, done enough of a survey of the average cabin temperature of an air-cooled pre-1989 911 with A/C in 90F climate? Inclusive of MRT? Again, I'm not saying Griffiths is at fault, their system will supply a more than plentiful level of cooling airflow, even COLD, discomforting airflow if you are attempting to bring the cabin, on the average, down to 75F in a HOT climate and BRIGHT sunlight. Overcoming that problem requires addressing something more than just surrounding air temperature. Beginning with window tint, even windshield film now that a clear one is available. Haven't I seen pictures of owners applying products like DynaMat to help keep the radiant effects surpressed? You will never reach the level of a typical Lexus LS, but some progress can be had at relatively low cost. |
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Banned
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Rockwall, Texas
Posts: 8,559
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West, rather than rely on your own narrow ideas about "comfort", and on what you can mine out of books and papers on the subject, why don't you ask 911 owners with modified a/c systems if they are "discomforted" by the cold air blowing out of the vents?
As I have stated, I have frigid vent temps which make the whole intererior feel cold, even on hot and humid days. I love it, and so does anyone that rides along with me - they are amazed at the air quality in my car and comment that it is superior to many modern vehicles they are familiar with. Believe it or not, to anyone motivated to modify their 911 a/c systems, very cold air blowing out of the vents is good, and if it is cold enough in the car that the thermostat can be turned to less than max, then we're talking ultimate success. BTW, why does the comfort level that other 911 owners experience matter to you? You do not have a highly modified 911 a/c system blowing cold air in your face, and are thus not suffering what you call "discomfort" from such, so what has sparked your interest and concern? Last edited by Ronnie's.930; 08-27-2014 at 03:46 PM.. |
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) fan instead of the blower wheel for A/C evaporator airflow..reverse the airflow(***2) direction once I switch from COLD system outflow for initial cabin cooldown. Cool/dry high velocity(911 requirement) airflow is not as discomforting from the footwell.***1 My A/C modifications have centered on increasing the system's refrigerant condensing capacity in low speed stop and go traffic, the MAJOR shortcoming of the factory system. ***2 Double WIN! Downward airflow direction would help to force condensate down and out the provided drain, instead of right back into our face. Maybe triple win, no debris "sucked" onto the evaporator WET side and maybe "glued" in place there. Last edited by wwest; 08-27-2014 at 04:45 PM.. |
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Banned
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Rockwall, Texas
Posts: 8,559
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I quoted you again to note that this really is the only reasonable course of action - wwest's most recent post in this thread, where he offered line-item nonsense, and even falsehoods, to a post of mine, really emphasizes how useless interacting with this guy really is.
And to Eric, yep, I must be one slow learning MF!!!
Last edited by Ronnie's.930; 08-27-2014 at 05:02 PM.. |
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Accusing someone, anyone, of offering nonsense, telling falsehoods is a empty, groundless, accusation absent a statement making your case. Forthcoming foundation for the accusation or just more Cluck, cluck, cluck..... I have cracked corn ready.... Last edited by wwest; 08-27-2014 at 05:51 PM.. |
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Banned
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: The Wet Side
Posts: 5,675
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LOL, like the world revolves around feeding Wild West some of his own medicine. LMAO. |
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Thanks everyone for their help. I got it charged and blowing cool air but the front condenser blower stopped working. Troubleshooting results:
1) The blower will run with 12vdc directly connected. 2) The fuse and relay have main power and I even tried swapping the fog light relay in. System will not turn on the blower and the wiring diagram from Bentley has me a little confused. What are the DME Control Module, AC Temp Switch and Electro-magnetic coupling? How do I test them? ![]() Thanks, P |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Park Ridge, IL
Posts: 1,240
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Hi,
Please try jumpering 30 to 87 on the condenser relay. That confirms wiring OK. Then jumper 85 to 86 that confirms relay OK. BTW sometimes the male pins on the relay lose contact with the socket. You can spread the pins open a little with a razor blade. Let's see what that shows. Good luck, Dave Last edited by DaveMcKenz; 08-29-2014 at 01:54 PM.. |
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Weird. Jumpering the relay socket #30-#87 with the AC running did not cause the blower to run and #30/ #85 measured 13/ 11.3V, respectively. Seems I may have a break in the connection between the relay and the blower.
Thanks Dave. |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Park Ridge, IL
Posts: 1,240
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Make sure you have 12 volts at #30 of the relay socket. If not the problem is further up the line.
Dave |
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Hah. It turns out that the body shop plugged the wrong connector together at the blower. Once I found the other one after tracing from the relay, I plugged it in, tested and everything is working. Of course, I am still only getting vents about 25F below ambient. I will survive for our last couple of hot months. Thanks everyone.
:P |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Park Ridge, IL
Posts: 1,240
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I am glad you found that wiring problem. Does your 25 degree difference reflect how cold it gets with the doors and windows closed and the system recirculating and cooling for a while?
Dave |
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Sadly, yes. Over about 15min of driving it went from 83F to 58F. I probably need to check the pressures again now that I have the additional "condensing capacity".
P |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Park Ridge, IL
Posts: 1,240
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Sorry, P. Please post your P's and T's and maybe we can spot something.
Dave |
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