Need Advice on Maintenance Parts for Barn Find '78 SC with 33K miles

[lespaul]

I just bought a '78 SC. It has 33,000 original miles on it. All original. Never been modified. Been sitting in a heated garage and run intermittently for past 18 years. Was last "running" about 3 months ago. I am picking it up with a trailer and plan to replace all fluids, do valve adjustment and replace all regular maintenance parts.

The Pelican site offers many options for maintenance parts (for example, a dozen spark plug options). I want to order up so I can get this baby on the road. I would appreciate recommendations on the best specific parts I should buy for this car.

Which spark plugs?
Which rotor?
Which distributor cap?
Which kind of Swepco for the transmission?
Which oil (dino or syn and weight and filter?
Which gas filter -- does it have an accumlator I need to replace? If so, which one?
Which belts?
Brake fluid recommendations?

Tire recommendations?

Other?

Much appreciated.

Brad

[christiandk]

Great find - what color. Any pics?

PM offers to buy the car should start entering your mailbox shortly

[TheSt|G]

Stick with Genuine Porsche for most of that, Swepco or Kendell for the trans depending on who you talk to, and Brad Penn for the oil.

What size wheels?

You likely need to replace all the rubber bits.

[tharbert]

I can't address a lot of this but your list of "things to do" should include replacing the flexible brake lines before it leaves the garage. I'd go through all the calipers to make sure none have seized pistons. Rebuild kits might be a good idea. Brake fluid: DOT 3.

[lespaul]

Thanks.

Black -- no pics yet.

This car is not for sale --- but the 73.5 might be once I get it back on the road. Or I may keep them both . . .

[db_cooper]

I think your biggest problem will be the fuel system. Rusty fuel tank..fuel lines, injectors, fuel pump and being CIS..fuel distributor.

I would remove the big allen fuel filter in the bottom of the fuel tank..usual disclaimers about gasoline and the level in the fuel tank inserted here**

Be prepared to change it as well as the in-line fuel filter, fuel pump and all the soft fuel lines.

Pull the injectors and put them in some small bottles and power up the fuel pump relay, engine and ignition NOT ON. Reach in and gently raise the sensor plate on the fuel distributor and see what kind of fuel spray and how uniform the pattern and quality per injector.

Fresh gasoline and some big dose of Marvel Mystery Oil should be in the fuel tank for testing is a good idea.

Don't try and run the engine without removing the old fuel and getting the CIS tested first.

The problem with cars stored for many years..the fuel system becomes a mess.




Brakes too need to be checked, as was suggested. Wheel bearing in the front can rust..particularly the outside bearings.

[edgemar]

Get a new Fuel pump relay. The orig. ones start to get flakey with age.

Pic pls...

[The cap'n]

Spark plugs: W8DC (7905). NO PLATINUMS!!!!
Cap and rotor: Bosch ONLY, and only if they're in need of replacement. They're probably fine, given the mileage. Wires: Beru ONLY, and only if they're bad.
Fuel filter: 71 021. The fittings may have to be swapped from the old filter. Might wanna check the number on the old one.
Air filter: Conventional, Mahle
Oil filter: Mahle, Mann, Knecht. NOT BOSCH!
Dino oil is fine, both for the engine and for the gearbox. That's what they came with. I like Brad Penn. 20w50 is appropriate for your car.
Belts: Continental
Brake fluid. Castrol LMA is consistently at the "top of the charts". At LEAST 1 liter! As someone stated above, replace the soft brake lines. OE Rubber is best for the street, and you avoid inspecting/changing them yearly/frequently. Also, you don't get catastrophic failure as the failure mode with rubber lines.
Tires: It's kinda up to you, based on your planned usage.

As others have said, might want to drain the tank, check for water/crud/rust. Fill it up, add a can of BG 44K, maybe a little Marvel Mystery Oil (read the directions!)
If it doesn't have a BPRV (backfire pressure relief valve) installed, do it ASAP. Like, before you run the car. If you pull the injectors (not a bad idea), replace all the seals and the insulators.

Have fun! The Cap'n

[lespaul]

Terrific advice from all!

Thanks so much.

[Dave Colangelo]

If I came across this dream project I would do the following in the following order...

--Minor service --
Fluid flush
- Mobile1 in the engine and Swepco in the trans, >DOT4 in the breaks
Air filter (from our host)
Oil Filter (from host)
Distro Cap and rotor (host)
Spark Plug Wires (host)
NGK spark plugs (or what ever our host has)
Fuel filter (host)
Fan Belt and remember to get 6 fresh washers for the puly (host)
Check the fuses for corrosion and replace as necessary
Battery
Tires, the choice here will depend on what you want to do (cruise, track AX etc)
Break pads

-- Bigger Projects --
POP OFF VALVE, never a bad idea to play it safe with this one
Carrera Chain Tensioners, almost every SC owner has done this at this point in time. If you are planing on dropping the engine for anything do it while you are in there.

I would guess most things are in good shape but depending on your climate i would then start to look at anything rubber. Rubber joints, bushings and boots will dry out over time and could leak etc.

I would check the CV boots for dried rubber and replace if needed, re grease (or even rebuild) the joins while you are in there)

Check the door and window seals for dried rubber as well. Make sure you have no water leaks as they can lead to rust in tough to reach places.

Chances are your Spring arm bushings are in good shape but they are known to sag over the years from use. You can check this by looking at the spring plate caps, if the bushings are sagging the tube on the spring plate (that the torsion bar resides in) will be closer to the cap on the top than the bottom. Again with the low miles on your car I doubt this is an issue. You caps may have a bit of rust on them though and are worth checking.

Check you fuel lines and oil lines for dry rot and cracking. Also take a look at your vacuum lines while you are in there. A vacuum leak can lead to a real headache sometimes.

Check your fuel lines. The SC had either hard metal lines (if you have these you are ok) or softer flexible lines. My car had the original lines on them and they were really warn out. Very simple to replace and could save you from an engine fire.

Also worth checking and cleaning your injectors while you are in there. If you do pull them put some fresh O rings on them as well.



Pick up the 101 projects for your 911 book from our host written by our host. Its a great book and a great reference.


Regards
Dave

[lespaul]

Thanks Dave. I have the 101 book but this is a very nice list to work from.

Now to start spending money!