Lucky me

[Wew]

Hi all,

In the middle of a total restore with motor out. Cylinder heads and valves along with pistons at machine shop (porsche specialists) for new valves and springs along with checking and cleaning, and machining. Should come back lovely.
Now I have removed all but one of the head studs. 7 of 12 divlars were broken.
Here's the bad luck, one of them broke so close to the engine surface it is difficult to get ahold of it to spin. I did get it to turn 180* with a pair of channel locks but no further. That was with lots of heat and Chapstick wax melted down into threads. Multiplied attempts but the hands just can't bolster the power. Vice grips slip. Any special tool that can grab so little? I do have some stud extractor sockets and it just can't get a good bite. Any suggestions other than local machine shop? Yes I did remove on of the engine case bolts and may have to remove another to get necessary leverage.

[Joe Bob]

You could try and weld a nut on the end?

[Alan L]

I once welded the broken stud back on - for same issue you have. But a nut as per suggestion may be more useful. But I wonder if you are using enough heat. They suddenly come soft and move like a hot knife through butter. It happens quite suddenly.
There are probably experts here who deal with this daily who can offer more - but I would lock the pliers on, or weld the nut/stud, and apply heat til it can resist no more. I use oxy/acetylene.
Alan

[CountD]

Originally Posted by Alan L

I once welded the broken stud back on - for same issue you have. But a nut as per suggestion may be more useful. But I wonder if you are using enough heat. They suddenly come soft and move like a hot knife through butter. It happens quite suddenly.
There are probably experts here who deal with this daily who can offer more - but I would lock the pliers on, or weld the nut/stud, and apply heat til it can resist no more. I use oxy/acetylene.
Alan

Man, that's a lot of heat. I suspect the OP wasn't close to heating this thing. Try more heat - and then some.

[Justin@Athens]

Mapp gas in the yellow container burns hotter than the regular blue cans fyi

[The cap'n]

Channellock makes a nice curved jaw pilers. "Channellock 410 1-1/8-Inch Jaw Capacity 9-1/2-Inch Double Tongue & Groove Pliers".. Buy a pair, you need 'em anyway. Lots of heat applied to the case in the direct area of the broken stud, then use the curved jaw pliers. Trick thing is they get tighter as you apply more force. First tighten the stud, then loosen it. Work it like that until it breaks free, then you can remove it. I've also used these trick stud removers: Proto J69X00 10 Pc Bolt Extractor Socket Set, and these: Craftsman 11pc Bolt-out damaged bolt and nut remover set New USA 52060 52061. You hammer the tool on and turn the broken stud or bolt out. Remember, HEAT is your friend here!

The Cap'n

[ClickClickBoom]

Take it to a machinist who has an EDM machine. Most of the cost is in the set up. You start messing around with a lot of heat in that area and the problems multiply fast. The EDM won't cost that much.

[timmy2]

I used this guy for one that was about as long as yours is. It is a Titan 16023. I found it on eBay. Almost as good as the snap on stud removers at 1/4 the cost.
Tight fit to get it on there in that spot, same as mine. Lots of Mapp gas to get it really hot.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Wew]

Tools on order. I guess I have to work that green girls propane gas a lot longer.
Thanks for the insight, tips.
It really helps keep me going!

[Alan L]

I've done a few of them. It used to scare the s..t out of me applying that much heat. But generally they are locked in pretty tight and until you melt that red Loctite 10-20mm down in the case, they don't want to let go. Of all the postings on this topic, I've never seen anyone posting about damaging the case. The Loctite always seem to give up well before. One trick is to constantly keep working it - testing the torsion - so you don't apply any more heat than you need to. Try and keep it on the case close to the stud, not on the stud. (The stud will go soft). The case has a big mass and transfers the heat away quite quick.
You will suddenly feel it budge. At that point you keep working it and can ease off the heat - just a gentle heat then till you get it out.
Alan

[Alan L]

Thankfully I haven't had to try this on a magnesium case. Don't know if they use the same trick or not, but I doubt my nerves would stand it.
Alan

[Wew]

Thanks gents,

After lite of heat and persistence and recommended tools, the stud finally gave.

Mission accomplished!

[allaircooled]

Nice!

[Wew]

"A lot of heat"

[timmy2]

I'm glad the stud extractor worked for you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[fred cook]

Originally Posted by Wew

Tools on order. I guess I have to work that green girls propane gas a lot longer.
Thanks for the insight, tips.
It really helps keep me going!

When you heat the block, heat the inside of the spigot (hole the cylinder goes into) next to the broken stud. Probably what has happened is that some of the thread locker is down near the bottom of the stud and is not getting warm enough. The use of a collet will make a lot of difference! Good luck!