Kevin:

I forgot about that. You're absolutely correct, and I should have known since the 87 944 has Motronic for timing.

Sorry for the confusion, and "thank you" for keeping me honest here.SmileWavy

+1.

I was over 50 when I did my first valve adjustment. Actually I had never seen a valve before that. I wish I was kidding but it took me over 5 minutes to figure out where the feeler went even with the screw totally back off and that was with the engine on the wall... So kudos to you guys that can do it with the engine in the car, on your back, on a snowy hill with no shoes on :D:):D

I did it using the feeler, about 3 times in 2 days and use the Backside method to double check. The engine is coming out next year (actually its always coming on an odd year) and I may get the Kirk tool.

Thanks for all the replies.

Tomorrow I will be doing another adjust. Never tried it without draining the oil, might do that.

As far as the Kirk Tool. I personally think it leaves too much room for error. Unless you want to go back after each adjust and stick in the feeler gauge. But isn't that the reason we buy the Tool?? So we don't have to deal with the pain of the feeler gauge.

I'm using the gauge tomorrow using the high drag concept. My Kirk Tool may be for sale very soon.

How much do I have to tilt the car? Does the oil get into places it should not during the tilt?

Thanks again Gents!!!

Pm me if you want to sell the kirk locally. I'm a tool hoarder.

FWIW, I prefer to do it the old-fashioned way. I used to own VW's and the adjustment is similar, so it just feels more familiar for me.

Unfortunately, the intakes on #3 & #6 are positioned to where you are doing a "blind" adjustment (unless you have the engine out).

I usually position the timing on the tappet I'm about to adjust, then back the tappet off. Then I make the appropriate adjustment to .004. I'm familiar with the necessary "drag", so I feel comfortable. It just seems easier for me that way, and I've never had any problems doing it as such.

Just my .02 cents.

P.S.---you won't need to jack it up much, just a couple of clicks on your jack stand if you place it under your torsion tube ends.

my 84 3.2 ran like crap with valves to tight.
all sorts of wierd issues.

Loosen them up so you can just hear them....not super loose, but set properly they do make noise.

These motors get tighter over time, not looser....strange result.

I chased lots of things....simple valve adjustment fixed it.

Rich

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1402425370.jpg

This is what I use instead of the kirk

Hey Pelicans,

So I spent the majority of the morning under the car today re-doing the valves. About half of them needed to be re-adjusted, they were way too tight!

I did it the old fashioned way with the feeler gauge and I felt much better after each valve was carefully checked with the proper amount of drag.

Took her out for a ride and she ran great!! So much more power and the valve train sounded awesome.

Very happy now.

The only problem I noticed is when I unscrew the oil cap there is no drop in RPM like last week, so somewhere in this whole process I sprung a vacuum leak. Need to hunt that down.

Thanks again for all the advice!!

Spray some Quick Start (generic is just as good), around vacuum connections and if the revs go up, you found your leak.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1402452700.jpg

Hey, good skills. And the net time you do it, it's much less traumatic as you know what to expect.

GREAT NEWS.

Is the Kirk that hard to use? Or is there a trick?

It looked like a great idea to me and lots of people praised it. I am a bit confused.

I think the Kirk Tool would be great once you get the hang of it, and maybe even better for someone who does a lot of valve adjustments. But for the once every other year guy I think the gauge is better.

I want to be sure I get it right. So if I use the tool I have to come back in with the gauge to check it. My attitude is if I have to come back in with the gauge why not just use it to begin with.

Just my humble opinion.

You know I like the little tool I built that is shown in the photo above.....just my opinion.

.1mm is 36 degrees of rotation to the left, and those wires mark that for you.

Eric, I heard tell that you are especially adept at draining "oil" and help others with that task as often as possible! Is that true, or is Bob lying to me yet again?! :D

I have no idea what you mean. Besides, I'm very busy in Marketplace mucking things up.

Eric, I expect nothing less! Speaking of Marketplace, it looked last week like you were trying to emulate my vacation-getting moves! :D

I believe it is not trivial to get the precise moment where the adjuster makes contact (zero lash) but you don't yet start to push the valve open. You have a lot of mechanic advantage with that adjustment screw. If your starting position is where the valve is already being pushed open ever so slightly and then you back off the by 36 degrees you end up with the lash too tight. And then tightening the lock nut changes the lash one more time. I prefer the feeler gauge.

I agree.

Just use the gauge.

If you can get the gauge under the rabbits foot with some drag, you're done!!