![]() |
|
|
|
Science is NOT optional
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: West and further west
Posts: 1,972
|
Stranded. What are fuel line leak repair options on the go?
The line from the fuel pump is leaking before the crimped connector leading to the high pressure line.
Here is a photo from a different car but same type lines. The grayish fuel line circled in red is failing. The dark black part in the green area, after the crimp connector linking them, is ok. What can I do as a temporary fix? Can the connector be cut off with the area circled in red and a section of new line spliced to the dark black line with hose clamps? ![]()
__________________
PCA member since 1993 |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 7,125
|
I have not had that apart but it looks like there is a barb inside the green circle hose. If you could cut the crimp apart and get the barb fitting out (seems dicey) maybe you could get some brass barb fitting at home depot or an auto parts store and some hose clamps and piece it together temporarily.
Maybe someone who has taken it apart will chime in. Another thought, maybe you could cut the red circle line off just behind the fitting and slide a larger fuel line over the fitting and hose clamp it tight. Then rig up a fitting on the other end to adapt the red line past the split. I have found that if you can cinch a hose clamp down on a piece of metal you can keep it from leaking for a time. No warranty implied or expressed :-)
__________________
erik.lombard@gmail.com 1994 Lotus Esprit S4 - interesting! 84 lime green back date (LWB 911R) SOLD ![]() RSR look hot rod, based on 75' SOLD ![]() 73 911t 3.0SC Hot rod Gulf Blue - Sold. |
||
![]() |
|
abides.
|
Perhaps cut out the leaky section and patch with hose barb inserts and hose clamps?
__________________
Graham 1984 Carrera Targa |
||
![]() |
|
Science is NOT optional
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: West and further west
Posts: 1,972
|
Yes, the leaky bits go right to the crimp piece so I want to eliminate that section. My first inclination is to cut just at or past the barb. It looks like the blacker tubing there is a different material and ok. Before just cutting it I thought it better to see if there is something about that apparently intact section of line circled in green that isn't obvious. Is it still compressible enough to allow hose clamping it to a barb? Is there any problem with trying to cut it there?
__________________
PCA member since 1993 |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Marietta, Ga (Atlanta)
Posts: 2,970
|
Just did this repair last week on my car. I used a dremel with a cutoff disk and cut the crimps off the hose including the one on the banjo fitting on the fuel pump end. You will them be looking at two barbed fittings. Go to the auto parts store with the bad hose and get right size "fuel injection" hose and a couple of fuel injection hose clamps. Go home and put it together.
Easy peasy and only cost $10 or so, and you'll be good for another 30yrs! EDIT: by the way, to make things easier to get to, remove the banjo fitting on the fuel pump end. Don't worry, fuel from the tank won't run out due to the check valve. Also, the dark black pipe that you circled in green is polyamid and is pretty much bomb proof and will last for eons. ![]()
__________________
'80SC Widebody 3.6 transplant Anthracite "The Rocket" Long gone but still miss them all: '77 911 Targa, '72 BMW 3.0CS Coupe(finest car I ever had!) '71 911T Coupe White, '70 911T Coupe Blue '68 911 Coupe Orange, '68 911L Soft Window Targa Last edited by uwanna; 06-10-2014 at 02:47 PM.. |
||
![]() |
|
Science is NOT optional
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: West and further west
Posts: 1,972
|
Thanks guys.
Here's my wrap up to the story should anyone follow in these tracks some day. Instead of cutting the line I disassembled the crimped connection by, well, by crimping it some more. It only took a few minutes and the repeated crimping released the union allowing it to slip off, leaving a barbed fitting that accepted a piece of temporary fuel line from the pump. The connection is secured with a small hose clamp and looks to be dry as a bone so far. I will have to replace it with high pressure line promptly but, as noted above, the polyamid line looks bomber.
__________________
PCA member since 1993 |
||
![]() |
|
![]() |
Registered
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 12,643
|
If you want a permanent repair, and you can get the whole section off, bring the bad hose assembly to a place that makes hydraulic hoses. Have them use your fittings and crimp on a new hose.
__________________
Harry 1970 VW Sunroof Bus - "The Magic Bus" 1971 Jaguar XKE 2+2 V12 Coupe - {insert name here} 1973.5 911T Targa - "Smokey" 2020 MB E350 4Matic |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Santa Maria, CA
Posts: 1,051
|
A couple of comments: That "bombproof" plastic hose section is toast if you manage to kink it. Don't. Parts store hose may not be a great fit, but it'll get you home, properly clamped Might want to use 2 on each end. When you have time, use the improved hose and proper FI grade hose clamps. Most hose shops use an American style crimped ferrule, which is NOT the same as the German metric version. I've had them actually cut the hose while crimping it. Nearly invisible, we didn't catch it until the lines were installed on the 3.2. Lotta work, lotta irritation.
The Cap'n |
||
![]() |
|
Science is NOT optional
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: West and further west
Posts: 1,972
|
Quote:
Thanks guys. I made it part way with no trouble although the fuel line looks a bit bulged, (or am I paranoid?), and hope to get the car home this weekend if possible. Improved meaning FI spec hose? Where is this and FI grade clamps found and how do you recognize them to confirm?
__________________
PCA member since 1993 |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,612
|
Just my $.02. I would tow it home on a trailer and replace the entire hose with original Porsche fuel lines.
|
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Marietta, Ga (Atlanta)
Posts: 2,970
|
Quote:
Absolutely NO NEED to replace the whole original fuel line assy for $100 or so, plus it's a real pain in the A$$ job to do! With new FI hose on the barbs and FI clamps you will have just as good an assy as original and it will last as long as you're likely to own the car. Actually the modern FI hose is WAY better than the original rubber hose and is now impervious to alcohol fuel which the old stuff isn't. Good luck!
__________________
'80SC Widebody 3.6 transplant Anthracite "The Rocket" Long gone but still miss them all: '77 911 Targa, '72 BMW 3.0CS Coupe(finest car I ever had!) '71 911T Coupe White, '70 911T Coupe Blue '68 911 Coupe Orange, '68 911L Soft Window Targa Last edited by uwanna; 06-12-2014 at 06:10 AM.. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: May 2004
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 6,133
|
![]() ![]() Here's what I have made up for others needing a temporary repair......... ![]() You can cut back the old and substitute these with E-85 rated rubber hose in their place. ![]() Using the factory Norma (High Pressure Rated) clamps are best for a long-term "temporary" repair. ![]() Len at Autosportengineering.com ![]() |
||
![]() |
|