I use a stout high table. That way you don't have to crawl around under the car as much. Obviously this only works with a two or four post lift. It also make the engine only drop much easier since you have room to align everything as it goes together. Then I just put the yoke and the engine stand on the engine and use the lift with straps to raise the engine enough to slide the table out. Lower the stand to the floor and you're done. One man job. Quick and easy.

ALWAYS!!!!! use the safety mechanisms when working under a lift.

Ingo -- I like your method. It seems much safer since the engine/tranny are never off the floor and simultaneously balanced in the air on the cart and/or floor jack set up prior to being lowered to the floor.

Mechanical chain hoists.........
 

Trackrash,

The contraption or device shown in the pictures is an A-frame structure built and designed by an engineer/scientist with a lifting capacity of 10K lbs. load. This was fabricated in the early 90's before the advent of Internet forums like PP.

I was using a two-ton (rear) and a five-ton (front) mechanical hoist for this engine drop. Ideally, a pair of 3-ton hoists would conveniently lift the whole car. With the engine still installed and the rear end up in the air, I could lift the front end of the car off the ground just using one hand.

This device have been in storage for a while now since I bought a hydraulic lift many years ago. This lift has been very helpful to me and others doing an engine drop for many years. Look very closely at the chain hook, there is a safety pin (hard to see) by the end of the bar to prevent the hook from sliding out. And 10-ton jackstand/s for additional support.

The engine cart slides under the car with plenty of space with all 4 wheels installed. With the cart properly positioned under the engine, the car is lifted and the the rear wheels removed. The car is brought slightly down about 1/2" clearance between engine and engine cart. Then removed all four (4) mounting bolts (engine and transmission) allowing the engine to sit on the engine cart.

With the CV axles removed, fuel lines and electrical are disconnected (etc.).......the car is raised up gradually in stages till the rear end of the car is about 3 feet from the ground and allow the engine to slide out. One major disadvantage of this A-frame is the inability to open the door/s during operation. Other than that, it was amazing!!!!!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404395966.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404395992.jpg

I used to bring this device to different places to help some locals for their engine drop. I was then younger and full of energy. But age has caught on me and no longer do on the spot engine drop. Instead, people are invited to my place and do the engine drop instead. And my wife could keep an eye on me more and not away from home too long. A typical engine drop including prep and clean up takes almost a full day.

Tony

Hey Tony, I have send you a private message.

Juergen

I forgot to mention I only raised the car so the fan housing would clear the bumper. Once the fan cleared I lowered the car to a reasonable (safer) height.

Here is some more info on engine drop:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/764914-what-fastest-drop-engine-time-did-you-guys-have.html

I can't imagine how hard it would be to mate the engine to the transmission with the transmission in place.