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I powdercoated the rods for fun. Also did this to my intake last night... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1475430053.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1475430114.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1475430117.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1475430195.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1475430198.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1475430214.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1475430242.jpg The two samples in one of the first pics has one in "signal red" and the other in "transparent red". I ren out of signal red so I shot the intake in transparent red and am I glad! I think it looks righteous. |
My preparation for the powdercoat consisted of;
- wash in simple green and 90 celcius water - media blast with walnut shells - soak in simple green and hot hot water and scrub - rinse many times - offgas the parts by baking them in the over at 425 for 30 minutes and cool slowly. I couldnt beliece how much oil had soaked into the aluminum. I opened the oven every few minutes to let the smoke out, it was definately motor oil burning off. - wash with 99% alcohol |
I got a little crazy with the powdercoating oven today. The lower covers are already powdercoated black and in nice shape. THe uppers were shedding their SEM engine paint so they and the valve train covers got translucent redified.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1476592969.jpg I also checked the cams, timing and pistons and valvetrain. Everything looks good. I forgot which cams were in there, they are DR Camshafts DC 24 with 108 separation. I look to have timed them at 3.0mm overlap at 0 lash. Johns page doesnt list the 24 with 108 so I've asked him to confirm the right timing. |
John confirmed 3.0mm was good timing.
Got the motor all buttoned up lst night. I am planning to adapt the tbitz megasquirt to repurpose the stock Idle valve. It looks to be a +12 middle pin, ground one side to open and the other side to close. Too bad it isnt a true PWM. I also cleaned up and checked the throttle body and accessories. THere is a working throttle-closed switch. THere is also a 3-pin electrical unit on the throttle valve itself. I didnt detect a change in resistance across the pins as it operates but maybe user error is involved. Would love comments on this. Anyway, here she is... Thats a JB Racing 12-plug distributor, a Carrera intake, bursch headers, DR cams, MSD coils and MS ECU. A frankenporsche! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478298500.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478298566.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478298587.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478298588.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478298605.jpg |
Oil catch can installed. Exhaust bung welded in.
- Moroso poly can with filter, a -16 fitting, and I drilled and installed a -20 elbow on the other side. All from summit. - Worm-gear clamps hold the can, those are vibration-mounted to the inside wheel well. - Blue fitting goes to oil tank - Black fitting goes to engine case breather - Removed the stock petcock drain and fitting -6 angled fittings - Drain feeds to upper 4-5-6 valve cover witha -6 bulkhead fitting http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479262006.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479262042.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479262045.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479262090.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479262118.jpg |
John - do you have experience with a gravity drain into a 911 valve cover? I suppose the pressure in the valve cover isn't higher than that in the crank case generally, so oil ought no more be forced up into the catch can that way than from the larger engine breather? And whatever may accumulate in the catch can will gravity bleed through the valve cover when the engine is stopped?
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I don't get it, what would this do that the stock configuration won't? As I see it the stock oil tank filler neck has the same function as your catch tank. I would have wanted this on the hose between the oil tank and intake, but only vented to atmosphere and not drained back to the engine since it would be mostly water in it. Maybe I'm wrong. |
I think its oil vapor - not water, the moisture mostly goes out the filter to atmo and the oil goes back into the engine?
I was thinking the valve area has tons of oil sloshing around to lube the valve train and it that gravity drains back to the sump. The sump is vented to the oil tank is vented to atmo so there should not be too much pressure in that area? |
Its a sludge mixture of oil, water, combustion gases and gas, that normally gets combusted in a closed system (as most stock systems are after the early 70s).
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Hi guys,
Thanks for the comments. I have done this before, once on a supercharged car where there were strict can sizes for CAMS compliance. I also did not want any oil vapor back into the intake...that car runs 10:1 compression already with 13psi boost so I was wary of any detonation. That car puts down 500 hp at the wheels, revs to 7000 and pulls 1.4g in the corners without any oiling system issues. I did indeed grenade an engine, but that was due to fuel starvation. Dry sump fuel system in there now. I never found any sludge in the oil that would indicate water/condensation. It would be fascinating to have a camera inside the valve cover to see what is going on in there. I dont have any stock configuration bits to work from on this car, I am building it from a bare chassis. The theory (yeah lots of that in this car) is that both the tank and the engine case can overflow their water varpor fumes and foamy oil, respectively, to the overflow tank where vapor is free to leave out the filter. Foam is captured, supressed and fluid flows back down the valve cover exit. Any water vapor is boiled off and exits the filter. I dont think there would be a pressure difference between the valve cover area and the main engine case...there are 2 big il return tubes connecting those areas I imagine equlize the pressure. I know nothing for fact, but I have done it before and it worked great. No maintenance too. |
"I know nothing for fact, but I have done it before and it worked great. " Diogenes would have shouted "Eureka" if he had met you.
I have an intake valve cover with a hole in it, and have idly thought of machining it some and fitting a piece of clear plastic into it just for peeking in while the car is in the garage. I suppose one could rig up a camera (so small and cheap these days) to video while on the road or track if you trusted the plastic (use glass?) and the seal. Cheaper than a Spintron. From posts here and there I have learned from others that you can pull the cam chain box covers and idle the motor and watch the chain jump up and down without causing too much of a mess. But that if you try that with a valve cover off you will create one hell of a mess. The crank case and the oil tank both need a way to access atmospheric pressure, either to avoid a vacuum or to vent excess air (mostly) pressure. How to do this? The crank case uses the hose to the top of the oil tank. Didn't the MFI and Carbed cars just plug into the filtered air side of the stock air filter system? Similarly, the CIS and later systems did not have a separate filter for this purpose. Rather, the early CIS connected to the air box in the area above (clean side) of the filter. So only filtered air could get into the engine and oil, and any vapors (or excess oil) from the crank case and oil tank would go into the intake system. At some point (by the '80s SCs anyway) this point was moved to the rubber boot between the metering side of the CIS intake and the throttle body. This is why taking the oil tank cap off of an idling motor of this era produced an increase in RPMs - air was bypassing the measuring plate. But I'd not want any of that stuff into the intake of a race motor. Nonetheless, there is enough positive crank case pressure to force a lot of oil vapor out of a hole in the chain cover, as my experience demonstrated, so I haven't been eager to pull a cover there and run the motor just to see. |
I have seen top fuel guys running the cars without covers while adjusting valves, it wasnt all that messy but I dont remember if they had spray bars like ours.
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Pushrod engines receive lube via the hollow rods. Thus, minimal spray. Many folks install a sectioned valve cover to minimize splash and gravity loss while actively adjusting hydraulic valve clearance.
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Made a TPS bracket from sandwiched ABS front splitter scraps.
Transmission and motor ready to mate, just awaiting KEP clutch and flywheel. Rear and side windows installed. Oil tank hot cleaned and tested, refinished and installed. Startlite oil lines threaded through rockers and mocal thermostat mounted. Oil overflow tank plumbed. Engine tin sandblasted and powdercoated Rothsport crank and alternator pulleys, installed. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480983899.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480983899.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480983899.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480983899.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480983899.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480983899.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480983899.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480983899.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480983899.jpg |
Seat heaters and coil/rear fuse panel installed.
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Transmission and motor mated, going in this afternoon...
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All right, I'll bite. Lightening holes in the shifter tower?
Is this a road rally car with a separate rear brake system? Needed because raising the shifter meant you couldn't use the stock parking brake? Will the car be on the road by the time of the PCA Club Race at Mosport if the creeks don't rise? |
Yes, speed holes all over. I wanted to do a car for me, with kein kakas given for resale or whatever. The reason for the raised tunnel was to get the shifter up where its comfortable, provide mounting for the hydraulic e-brake, brake pedal adjuster, and various controls.
Yes, the rear brake system is separate with a pull-lever locking the rears. |
Ignition system all wired up. JB distributor sends the locked-to-zero advance signal to Megasquirt v3. That sends a pair of msd boxes on pin 6 and 36 to their respective white trigger wires. Ignition circuits in the MS were updated. Idle control also wired in, a stock carrera PWM idle valve. Ground has a 50 ohm resistor, switched 12v and control on pin 21 Idle control on MS. Also pimped the MS box in powdercoat "Transparent Red."
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484983838.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484983838.jpg |
Mocked up an intake manifold. I am using a 3.5" 90 degree cf elbow, and constructing an airbox to hold the filter and manage airflow. The box is made of 2mm cf plate from dragonplate.com. The corners are reinforced with 2cm 90 deg channel bonded to the box sides.
I have a "trumpet" I will contour and bond into the airbox before sealing it up. I am using Hysol e120 epoxy. It is thin and runs even in low temps with a 2 hour wrklife so you have to be careful to use only as much as you need or it will flow out. I found using rare earth magnets on either side of the seam being bonded works really well at holding everythng in place where clamps couldnt reach. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485129308.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485129308.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485129308.jpg |
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Airbox progress, and the clutch pedal cable, throttle linkages and pedal cluster in place. the throttle linkage took some modifying. I had to add 3cm length to the upper linkage arm.
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Airbox done...it just clears the tail grill. I was hoping to set it deeper into the engine bay and made a shroud for it but where it sits will need some more work to have the shroud/filter holder clear the tail. IAT sensor fitted and idle valve intake also fitted. I used some carbonfiber/kevlar rod to make the rear box support.
I am pretty happy with it, but will have to see how it works in the rain/being washed. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486310637.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486310637.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486310637.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486310637.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486310637.jpg |
Some work on the windows, door latches and door cards. In another thread some asked:
'[QUOTE=911tracker85;9488790]so how did you do this conversion? as I strip to the tub, already pulled everything out of the doors. I am planning the same thing for my 930 conversion project. plan to use RS door panels. also removing PWR mirrors. saw this done on a 944. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488125668.jpg" Quote:
The later pics with the white door interiors are from an autocross/street car. Again, stripped out inside but this one has carbon fiber door cards from GT (also pictured.) The problem with the way that 944 has them is the strap can fall down inside the door. I've found it better to create a full loop for the handle with grommets as you see on the 944 and a "peg" to hook the window sling into to keep it up/partway up. The loop passes up and out the top of the window, inside the car, and inside the door through the door card at the bottom. That way it never falls in. The second car is in progress now, the black sling is the window pull that doesnt have its grommets yet. The yellow rope is the door latch, and it will get a third sling to pull the door closed at the end. The triangular cutout you see in the door card is to accommodate a gusset in the corner of the door. I've bonded in a spacer, then will back it with another piece of carbonfiber. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488133218.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488133214.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488133168.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488133177.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488133187.jpg |
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Its coming together...door cards in with window and lock pulls. Pedals installed and adjusted. Driver's side seat, swithes and steering wheel. I even sat in it and shifted and turned the wheel making squeeling tire and motor noises.
Been waiting 3 weeks now for the MS cable from EFI analytics...it should theoretically start. All fluids in and no leaks other than a drip from the s hose. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488522027.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488522245.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488522245.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488522245.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488522245.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488522245.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488522245.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488522245.jpg |
Some pics from last year I forgot to list
Dash and dashboard from sept 2015
Cleaned out all the old crap foam and bits. Taped up a "dam" around the preimeter and filled it in with dense Hilti foam. The covered with fiberglass, then foam and then Alcantara. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489972937.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489972937.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489972937.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489972937.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489972937.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489972937.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489972937.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489972937.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489972937.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489972937.jpg |
Its official...898.5 kgs...1981 lbs. Wet, with me in it.
Not bad for an initial weighing. Now to work on the corner balancing... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491714997.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491714997.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491714997.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491714997.jpg |
Well that was a record corner-balance session! 7 turns out on the left front and 15 turns out on the left rear and it was all within 1.2 kgs on each corner from perfect. 50.5% cross weight. The fronts are within 1 kg. It will settle a bit after driving it around, so I will leave it there and come back after a test drive.
I had planned to have the F1 on in the background while I tinkered with it but I am done before the parade lap is over! |
Car starts and runs. I need to do some more work on the idle and fuel/spark maps but its close to ready for the road.
I love the seats, they really fit me and hug you in. The stock belts work OK, thought I have harnesses waiting to put in. The shifter needs some bending to get it just a bit higher and give some more room for the hydraulic parking brake. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495760193.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495760193.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495760193.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495760193.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495760193.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495760193.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495760193.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495760193.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495760193.jpg |
more
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uff, missed this build completey. great job. and a back-date one of a kind!
some fresh pictures (art-shots)? |
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Well Gretchen is basically done! I have a much better idle and have done a few tuning runs. Starts right up and catches itself when off throttle and into idle. Brakes all bedded it, and the alignment adjusted so it runs and brakes straight and balanced. Unfortunately its into storage now for the winter, but she will be all ready to go after last snow in the spring!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1511125060.jpg |
Six months later and Gretchen is on the road! Insured, plated and ready for safety inspection at the garage up the road. I did some transmission tunnel mods and will post that later, in the meantime I've had some requsts for VE and spark tables and files...here they are. It hunts at idle and stalls off throttle so there's that. Happy for suggestions here. It has ~5 miles of VEAL tuning on it and generally starts and runs well with sharp acceleration. I had this motor dynoed in another car with a CIS intake with adaptronic EFI giving 240 at the wheels. With the carrera intake, MS2, DC24 cams and MK exhaust it feels like 270. In 899kgs she is a ripper! (thats 1,981 lbs)
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Wow, I have to say this guy did some of the coolest stuff I have seen in a long time. William Knight
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Its been a while...all tuned up with M&K headers and muffler. Sounds glorious.
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very nice build
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