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Brake return spring broken HELP!
Need some advice on the brake return spring. My pedal cluster is old but functional and doesn't look to be an easy removal at this point. However, while replacing my MC I found the return spring broken.
1? Are they all that important IE the MC is moving the pedal to all but top?? 2 Would it have any effect on my MC if I don't have a return spring? 3 Contacted our host for a possible new spring ( not currently available from what I can see for an SC) Thanks |
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08-19-2014, 07:49 PM
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Bump (cause I could use the help)
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08-20-2014, 05:26 AM
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GAFB
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Raleigh, NC, USA
Posts: 7,842
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I would think that the return spring is important. Think about an emergency situation. This past weekend I was test-driving my 928 after a major mechanical overhaul that included removal of 2 calipers, as well as the master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder. Still lots of air in the system after exhaustive bleeding. Getting my brakes to provide sufficient braking force required pumping up the pedal repeatedly. So, let's say your master cylinder is in mid-failure. You can get brakes, but it requires pumping up the pedal. You'd want that return spring to be in good repair at that point, or it would be more difficult, or impossible, to pump up the brakes.
The pedal cluster removal looks scary, but it really isn't that bad. Two M8 nuts on the cluster inside the cabin, two more M8 nuts under the car on the other side of the bulkhead from the pedal cluster. If your belly pan tray is in place, you'll remove that (again, easy) to access the 2nd pair of nuts. You'll detach the master cylinder actuator rod and the structural reinforcing brace from the cluster. Pop off the throttle rod ball cup. Slip off the clutch clevis (IMHO, the fiddliest part of the job, but we're still talking just 5-10 minutes of swearing with some needle nose pliers and/or a small flatblade screwdriver). I like doing the clutch clevis last after I've freed up everything else, that way I can move the cluster around a little bit to give me slightly better access to the clevis. The spring should be available from one of the various dismantlers if it is no longer available new.
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Several BMWs |
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08-20-2014, 05:43 AM
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Bollweevil
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Fulshear, Texanistan
Posts: 3,361
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If you decide to replace the brake return spring (which you definitely should do), also replace the clutch return spring and all the bushings "while you are in there". In other words, rebuild your pedal cluster.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/101_Projects_Porsche_911/40-Pedal_Cluster_Rebuild/40-Pedal_Cluster_Rebuild.htm You didn't specify the model year of your 911 but it is just a matter of time until some of the bushings disintegrate. The accelerator bushings in particular can cause some unpleasant driving experiences when they disintegrate.
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Jack 74 911 Coupe 2.7L - K21 Option - S suspension Last edited by 74-911; 08-20-2014 at 10:08 AM.. |
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08-20-2014, 10:05 AM
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Problem at the moment is nobody seems to know if the return spring notated for 74-77 will fit a 78-83 car. I hesitate to remove the cluster, buy all the bushings to not have the spring that started the whole mess.
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08-20-2014, 11:53 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Nash County, NC.
Posts: 8,480
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The spring number change with non power through 76
Then power from 77 Bruce |
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08-20-2014, 01:03 PM
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Being the spring needed was NLA I am SOL to a certain degree. I broke the straight part of the original and with great difficulty,blood and cussing bent a new straight portion onto the existing spring to hold until I get the chance to rebuild the cluster. I may at that time use the 74-77 spring although from what I understand it has a greater spring weight or find another option
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08-21-2014, 06:00 AM
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