Before the PPI - where to look for rust on early 911's?

[Jim Richards]

I'm not quite at the stage for a PPI; however, I want to make sure I'm ready to move to that step. Here's where I was thinking I should look for rust. Please note any others. Thanks!

* Around headlights outside and inside trunk
* Around the batteries
* Trunk under and around spare tire
* Driver & passenger door bottoms
* Rockers
* Jackposts
* Around rear window corners inside and outside
* Floor under the carpet - front and back
* Around rear torsion tubes
* Around the front suspension pan

[Gordo2]

I used the Pelican check list and caught a lot of stuff that wasn't by the Porsche shop that did the PPI...

http://www.pelicanparts.com/911/technical_specs/911_checklist.txt

Gordo

[Gordo2]

Should have mentioned on the last post but...

Recommend you be very specific on what you want inspected on the PPI. I wasn't and got back a lame PPI from a Porsche place in Richmond. If you follow the Pelican list you can catch most of the stuff. About the only thing you can't tell for sure is what kind of shape the motor is in. Driving should give a good feel for the engine, trans and brakes but a good shop ought to be able to tell you more.

I would recommend you do the visual and specify to the shop to check:

Engine: Compression or leak down (about $90-150). Potential sources of oil leaks. NVA you probably want an emissions test done, should tell you how well the thing is tuned as well (i.e. running lean/rich). You may want the valve covers removed to check on head studs (about $160). Check condition of exhaust system and heater system.

Transmission/Drive train: Driving should tell all... Only thing a shop can do is look for leaks. Have them check the CV joints for cracked boots and play.

Brakes: I should have specified to check calipers and rotors. Rotors - can they be ground or need replaced w/next pad change? Pad's - how much wear/life?

Electrical: Looking back I would have had them test the alt.


Also specify if you want an estimate for items found that need repair. Having a shop's dollar figures behind you can help you bargain to your price.

I added some of my own stuff to the Pelican check list (more specific on electrical and other stuff). If you want a copy PM me with your E-mail address and I will shoot it to you.

I spent $160 on my PPI and all I got back that was worth anything was the compression test (which should run about $60...). Again, be specific.

Good luck, Gordo

[Randy W]

Look at the car during the day outdoors. Remove the headlights, open both doors and look deep into the space above the front fender, look inside the jack receptacle - use a flashlight. These areas are often overlooked in any effort to conceal rust. Use a small magnet and screwdriver and go over the whole body, including the interior after removing all floor mats. The most important areas structurally are the front pan around where the front torsion bars anchor, the sills, around the transmission and motor mounts and where the rear torsion bars and control arms anchor. Good luck!

[CamB]

- Anywhere sunroof drain-hole related (WILL rust if they are clogged).

- the bit at the bottom of the door jamb, especially at the back - if you look in from behind the rear wheel arch towards the door jamb you can see a natural collection point for muck and rubbish so it likes to rust there

[Hockey fan]

Rust - check the lower corners of the windshield. My car also has rust visible in the "inside top" of the door. I can look through the glass while I'm in the car and see the top of my door (underneath the outside seal) and see it's pretty rusty in there. I think what I'm trying to say is if you peeled off the door skin the area at the top would be quite rusty. It appears the outside seal along the window has leaked water down into the door for quite some time. Sorry if that doesn't make a whole lot of since - it's late and it's time for sleep!

Jeff

[Jim Richards]

Thanks all! This helps a lot.