Hot start 3.2

[Drisump]

I was held up at the border for 1 1/2 hours on Sunday and once through, I immediately stopped and shut her down to make a couple of calls. Ten minutes later, I tried to start her....no crank. I opened the hood and considered my situation. After a few more calls and approximately ten minutes I attempted to start her again, and she fired right up...and has continued to do so for approximately ten times since. The question is: does an excessive heat condition not allow the starting of these cars? It is rather strange that the only time this problem had ever shown up was when the engine was as hot as I've ever had it. I suppose it may simply be a coincidence that a starter/solenoid problem show up at that particular time, but I want to make sure. Thanks

[kidrock]

yep, probably a heat soak situation...they are common with old stock Bosch starters. A little rap with a hammer will confirm it. I've also seen situations where people have squirted cool water on the solenoid with success.

The other common issue is the various connections to the starter, particularly the yellow wire. Especially when aftermarket alarms have been installed.

[DRACO A5OG]

Next time this happens, carry a paper clip in the car.

Jumper the CHTS connector ( the white plug ) and she should start. If you want, carry a DVM and test the OHM's when no start situation occurs.

I would check the CHTS when cold and hot to insure it is within tolerances.

[mowog63]

That is exactly what is happening to my car....1985 coupe.
It starts up like a brand new car and runs fine, then if I run it for anything more than maybe 15 minutes and shut it down, it won't start.
It just give a "thunk" sound from the general vicinity of the starter.

I'm wondering if it is the CHTS as mentioned or either a weak battery or bad solenoid?

This stinks....I just got the car and wanted to start using it, but I'm not going to risk getting stranded!!

[OsoMoore]

One possibility is a deteriorating ground connection. When the solenoid is cool, it does not take as much juice to activate and turn on the motor. When it heats up, it expands internally and takes more power in order to click on.

First I'd suggest cleaning the transmission ground strap's connection. Then I'd suggest getting the very cheap and easy to install hot start kit. The hot start kit is a bandaid solution for either a bad ground or a dieing starter/solenoid.

[billydeakins]

Had this happen to mine on the way home from buying it. Driving it back from Denver and stopped for gas 4 hours in....tried to restart and nothing! Got it bump started and just left it running while getting gas. Got home, shut it off and tried to restart it...nothing. Go out in the morning and she fired right up! Hasn't done it since either.

[darrin]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

Next time this happens, carry a paper clip in the car.

Jumper the CHTS connector ( the white plug ) and she should start. If you want, carry a DVM and test the OHM's when no start situation occurs.

I would check the CHTS when cold and hot to insure it is within tolerances.

While I've personally experienced how a failing CHTS would keep a cranking engine from starting (e.g. the non plausible info my failing CHTS delivered to my ECU screwed up timing and/or mixture to the extent that it would turn over but not start), I'm not clear on how this would cause the OP's problem, an engine that won't crank at all.

[mowog63]

I'm thinking ground strap, because it is easy to rule out, easy/cheap to replace.
I've just received the car this week and fixed two non-working electrical issues by merely cleaning the contacts.

If it isn't that, there starts the adventure.

Thanks,
erik.

[Drisump]

Thanks guys for all the input. I put a new OEM CHTS last week, went on a 1000 mile trip and hadn't had a problem up until the event at the border. As Darrin said, can the CHTS actually prevent the starter from engaging? I will check grounds as per suggestions. Cheers

[Drisump]

Originally Posted by mowog63

I'm thinking ground strap, because it is easy to rule out, easy/cheap to replace.
I've just received the car this week and fixed two non-working electrical issues by merely cleaning the contacts.

If it isn't that, thee starts the adventure.

Question:
I had a 66 912 for 12 years prior to this car and jacked it up under the cross-brace for the transaxle all the time.
What is the recommended method of jacking a 1985 Coupe?
I don't want to learn the hard way...66 912 is a much lighter vehicle than this one.

Thanks,
erik.

Jacking does have some controversy. Some (including our host Wayne) will actually jack (with a floor jack on the seam between the two halves of the case...padded of course. This will lift the entire back end of the car in one go. I usually lift one side at a time using a floor jack lifting an after market jack pad, inserted in the normal jack insert. I've done the engine method...it's certainly the fastest, but I do have some reservations. Cheers

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by Drisump

Thanks guys for all the input. I put a new OEM CHTS last week, went on a 1000 mile trip and hadn't had a problem up until the event at the border. As Darrin said, can the CHTS actually prevent the starter from engaging? I will check grounds as per suggestions. Cheers

Good, we can eliminate the CHTS, but check the OHMs just to be sure.

Now check the voltage at the starter, insure it is within tolerance.

I would also check the battery to insure you are getting 12.4-12.6 volts prior to start and while on 13.5-13.8+ volts insuring alternator is operating properly.

I would also check the connectors at the battery terminals, take them off and check for hairline fractures.