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Registered
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I've had my '86 for about six months and put a solid 9K miles on it - I've never in my life driven a car this much. It had 167K miles on it when I got it and it's only been since I noticed just how many miles I've gone through that I realized just how reliable the car has been.
However, since I first drove the car it seemed to have a very heavy clutch. This is the first thing people notice when they drive it. I drove a friend's '86 and the clutch was like a hot knife through butter - so I knew something must be wrong. I asked my mechanic about it when I had my recent engine service done and he said he was certain it was the throw-out bearing and bearing tube wearing out. I asked him if it might be a problem with the clutch cable or helper spring and he summarily dismissed it. He's only seen the car twice, so I can't attribute the dismissal to knowledge of the car. Anyhow, I've begun to notice increased clutch slippage - occasionally on fast starts into traffic or high-speed gear changes from second to third and have begun contemplating a full clutch job. I'm in penny-pincher mode right now and would perfer not to have spend about $1K on assundy parts and spend a week with my Dad in his garage to replace the clutch and the TO bearing and tube - along with all the other details that end up being done while you've got the engine out. I'm thinking about taking the car to another mechanic and asking him to check the clutch cable and helper spring. I figure worse case, I'll end up spending $200-$300 on a new clutch cable and helper spring. Anybody else have similar experiences? If I replace the clutch, I would replace the clutch cable and helper spring anyhow. Should I even attempt adjusting the existing cable or should I just have the mechanic replace it? Or should I try to find a free weekend and do it myself? I live in an apartment and lack a set of jack stands. |
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I would recommend that you replace the clutch cable, clevis, clip/pin, and bushing at the pedal lever arm, first! Lubricate the entire length of the cable with a good moly grease like Swepco 101. Disassemble, clean and lubricate all of the operating linkage at the bellhousing during replacement.
Many folks have reported drastically improved 'feel' and reduced effort after replacing the clutch cable! ------------------ Warren Hall 1973 911S Targa 1992 Dodge Dakota 5.2 4X4 parts hauler [This message has been edited by Early_S_Man (edited 09-17-2001).] |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,434
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if you have noticed slippage, then it's over. a hard pedal indicates a thin disc, 95 out of 100.
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Ok... this is exactly the conflict I keep seeing. It seems about 1/2 the time people say replace the clutch cable and 1/2 the time they are saying replace the clutch.
My problem is that I essentially have to take it to a garage if I just get the clutch cable replaced whereas if I do the clutch, I'll head down to my parents (600 miles) and spend a week or so on the car. The clutch kit from Pelican starts at $645. I estimate that I'll have to spend closer to $1000. I'm planning to replace the TO bearing tube, I need the pressure plate socket, and will likely run into some other issues. Is the $125 upgrade to the performance clutch worth the money? I just don't want to spend $300 and then end up needing to do the whole clutch anyway. The car has 176K miles on it and I can't find a receipt from any PO for a clutch, so it just may be possible I'm still riding the original! |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 3,694
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Buy yourself a new clutch cable, helper spring, possible release fork, and a Sachs clutch kit and go for it!
I was real suprised at how easy it was to install the clutch and reatach the release arms and adjust the new cable again. You'll need a few special tools unless you can borrow them. After doing it myself, I cannot imagine PAYING someone else to do it for me. Much cheaper and more satisfaction. Email me if you need more specifics, and read the clutch job tech article on Pelican! |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Tampa Bay Area, FL
Posts: 880
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I think JW's right on target. In my '78SC, the clutch pedal was very difficult to depress, so much so that I was the only one who could drive the car. A new clutch has made a world of difference, particularly when it comes to pedal stiffness......
------------------ Michael '78 911SC Euro |
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