Add-on power door locks project
 

Hi guys,
My 84 does not have power door locks. What's more, the ignition switch was replaced by a previous owner, so I have one key for ignition and one for door locks. I came up with an idea for easy door lock install.
I bought two keyless entry systems on Amazon for $15 each. They are very nice, but very basic.
I programmed the remotes to operate both keyless units at once, also very easy.
I will run off the power window wiring in the door so no new wires need pulling.
I bought two door lock actuators for $10.
That means for $40 and some time tinkering, I should have dual keyless door locks.
I have prepped the keyless units and remotes, and will post pictures as I tear into the doors. There is always some kind of challenge in these projects, but we'll see how it works. It may have application for SC's and any earlier 911 with power windows.
Thanks,
Dave

Thanks, subscribed.

Regards,

mlfox

I have installed a keyless entry system on my 80SC but I ran a harness to each door to provide power and to control the actuators from the keyless module mounted in the frunk. I also wired the unit to activate/deactivate the factory alarm system when it is locked /unlocked. I also wired in several other features that came with the system.

I must ask you where do you plan to get the un-switched 12volts in the doors. I don't know how the 84 model year is wired but on the 80SC the windows are switched via the ignition switch to the power window relay coil in the frunk. The power window relay when activated provides battery voltage to fuse 21 in the frunk. Fuse 21 (25 amps) protects the power window circuits. The only way I can see you doing it would be to jumper across the power window relay contacts 30 and 87. This would defeat the purpose of the windows only being operated with the ignition on.

If you do jumper the relay then you would use the red wires to the power window switches for the +12 volts and the brown wires for chassis ground.

Hi.
My power windows are always hot. If yours are not it could easily be modified.
Dave

Thanks , Pat,
I have used your experience to formulate my plan. I don't see any problem with power window control with ignition off.
Dave

Well it seems they have changed the wiring of the power windows. I don't believe
I have ever owned a car where the power windows are hot all the time. In my 2010 Lexus the windows will work after the ignition is turned off and before the door is opened. Once opened they stop working until the ignition is turned on again. This is the same with my 2005 Dodge Dakota truck. My 97 Honda accord only works when ignition is on. I would guess the circuit is wired that way due to the amp draw on the battery. I would also guess that it is preferred to have the engine running.

That is not true on my '84, and a quick scan of the wiring diagrams seems to indicate that someone has modified your car's wiring if they are hot all the time.

Well anyway. If you have the ability to add these locks, you can probably move the window power to an always hot circuit. I don't need to, but I will post instructions at some point. The object is simplicity and avoidance of pulling new wires into the door cavity.
Dave

Now you've got me thinking I might have to put my central locking actuators back in the car and modify some wiring. I got tired of messing with my central lock and took the entire system out in favor of the good ol' key operated door latch.

As Arne pointed out, I think my car had the wiring modified so the windows are always powered. My guess is that the relay which provides power to the windows was bypassed for reasons of cost. I don't see any great downside EXCEPT SAFETY. If you have children with access to the car, power windows can be dangerous, especially if always powered. If that is an issue for you, don't go down this road.
Thanks,
Dave

Dave,

I think your solution for the actuator and wireless controllers in each door is a simplistic, cost effective and a good one. My comments were meant to provide my own experience and my thoughts on your project. pulling the relay and adding a jumper between 30 and 87 will not effect the electrical safety of the power window circuit and can be reversed if necessary. I would suggest adding another fuse rated for the window actuator on each door. That is if the amperage required is less than the 25 amp protection of the power window circuit. The keyless entry controller I have required a 15 amp fuse for the constant power circuit feeding the controller and the two actuators.

Thanks Pat,
The $15 keyless unit comes with a 15 amp fuse. I was not worried about electrical safety so much as a kid getting his head caught in a power window that has power at all times. That was the basis for my warning. I you just lock your car, the kids can't get in though. And now it's just the push of a button.
Here's my parts order:
Amazon.com: Universal Car Power Door Lock Actuator 12-Volt Motor (2 Pack): Automotive
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QH9C5A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Dave

I have decided to evaluate other lock actuators, so I ordered a couple of alternatives. I will post other options later.
Dave

Dave: the relay that shuts off the power window circuit is triggered by the door switch that runs your overhead lights -- if your overhead lights aren't working, you could have a bad door switch (which would leave your window circuit active all the time) -- This also appears to cause a slow drain on the battery . . .

Thanks, and a good suggestion. My lights work fine. 84 does not have a light input, just a timer. Looking at the wiring diagram for my year, it looks like a time delay relay. I think mine was bypassed by whatever means. It would be extremely easy to make anybody's window hot at all times.
Dave

Another data point, my 82 windows are always hot. Pulled an alarm system a few months back, don't know if that is it or not.

Hi guys,
The door lock project is going well. I decided to perfect the system on the passenger door, so I could easily drive the car, even half apart. I went with a slightly more compact actuator, it is hidden behind the aluminum bar in center of the door. The list of additional tasks grew to include:
add moisture barrier
add sound proofing
lube all mechanisms
use washer fix for window rattle
make spacer for door speaker
align window frame and door for best closure
clean out debris and drain holes
tighten all fasteners
clean window switch with deoxit
and, of course, add door lock system

The lock controller is hanging now but will be mounted in door pocket beneath handle. And yes, my orange car was once red.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412362377.jpg

Thanks,
Dave

Please keep posting as this would be a nice feature to have these days. Knowing which components work well is a big plus on any project.

If you can detail what you bought and the steps to install would be ideal. Thanks

I will definitely detail all the components I used, with pictures, when I do the driver's side. The actual lock system was extremely easy to do. BTW the lock works extremely well, and even has considerable range. I spent most of my time tweaking other in-door items. I will attack the driver's side starting Monday, and will provide more details.
Thanks for the interest.
Dave

As promised, here's some more info on my add-on lock system(s). The control box and actuator that I ended up using are from Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BKRPW1O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QH9C5A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412527732.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412527763.jpg

I added red Locktite and allen head set screws for a compact, hopefully durable connection between acutuator and lock rod.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412527873.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412527984.jpg

Here's where I taped into the red and brown wires at the window switch for power and ground respectively.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412528053.jpg

Anyway each side has $30 in parts, plus miscellaneous connectors, etc. I used a 1.5" x 11" x 1/16" aluminum bar to mount the actuator. The control box mounts in the door pocket below the handle, out of sight, using velcro so I can access it if needed, though I shouldn't need to.
Good luck to any who try this. It was pretty easy, but I have done many similar tasks before.
Dave

BTW I said I would describe how to make the power windows always hot. My car was apparently modified to this state in the past. You could easily do this by placing a jumper wire between the 30 and 87 terminals of the power window relay socket in the luggage compartment relay/fuse block. On my car it is relay #2 counting from the back. The fuse is #1 also counting from the back. You could also move the output wire from fuse #1 to fuse #3, which on my car is the headlight washer fuse, and appears to be always hot. I don't have a HL washer pump, but even if I did, it would be unlikely to be using it at the same time a window was being operated.
Again, good luck,
Dave

Thanks a ton for posting. Will be on my projects list this winter. Well done sir!

One control box works both door locks? I would think so, but you said there was $30 per door and the cost kinda add up as two control boxes.

Two control boxes. Each programmed to the same remote (plus a spare). Each mounted in a door pocket. No wires pulled into either door.
Dave

Thanks Dave. If I wanted to mount the control box under the hood and pull wires to each door actuator would one control box / remote allow each door lock to work individually or both at the same time.

At my controller's price point, it could control both door locks and flash your parking lights. I think there is also a trunk release output. For the $15 you don't get any sensor inputs or alarm features. Individual door lock control sounds unlikely for this unit.
Good luck,
Dave

Just ordered two of each item and will see what I can do.
Great information you provided...thanks

Just to be clear, you can flash the parking lights if you can run wires to them. If you mount the units in the door, you would need to pull wires into door cavity to flash any lights not in the door. I thought about adding an indicator light on the inside door trim, but didn't. If you are going to pull wires, you only need one unit, maybe mounted in the frunk, with door lock wires pulled into each door. I went the lazy person's route and mounted one unit and its actuator in each door and ran power off the window circuit.
Good luck,
Dave

I bought a set that acted like a true central locking system, it allowed for lock/unlock with the key (maybe if you lose the transmitter or the battery dies in it).....but required 4 wires. I got lucky, since I back dated my mirrors to '74 style manual mirrors, I used those wires.

Dave, this project rocks. Added to my must-do list.

I'll add a thought about always-hot power windows. I'm sure car companies have various reasons for cutting window power when the ignition is off-- among them the possibility to activate a window switch with an object in between the door and frame to easily gain access to the inside of a car. Of course no one expects windows to be powered up with the car locked so this may be a moot point, but I thought I'd mention it.

Thanks for the write-up and inspiration! SmileWavy

Good point. It will just be our little secret.
Thanks,
Dave

Programming two keyless entry systems to one remote:
For the brand I chose, call one box A and one box B. Use the two remotes from A. Open the box B by removing two screws. There is a learning push button inside. Apply 12+ and ground to the red and black wires respectively. Press the learning push button on box B. Within 20 seconds press any button on remote A. Repeat with the second identical remote A. You can now control both box A and box B with the two remotes that came with A. Keep the other two as spares.
It may be possible to learn other remotes, (two maximum), but these came with the units, they seem pretty nice, and they definitely work.
Good luck,
Dave

Has anyone experience of running new wires into the doors? All my door wiring is via a plug and so not extendable. Are there holes to be drilled?

I pulled new wires into each door when I had the car apart for a restoration. In my case the controller is in the frunk behind the fresh air box. I wired in the factory alarm that uses the door key. I never had the key so the system is activated when it sees half of the unarmed key resistance value. I think the unarmed resistance was 4.6K. I added another 4.6K in parallel to the contacts in the factory alarm module in the frunk the 4.6k resistor is switched in via a control from the keyless entry. I also wired in the alarm light feature and I used the unused light socket that is on the temp/pressure gauge. Other features I installed were parking lights flash when alarm/keyless entry is activated and deactivated, inside dome light/glove box light stay on for 30 seconds after door is closed allowing you to see the ignition key slot at night.

Don't get me wrong. Pat did this thing right. If I had my doors off, I would pull wires into them, and consider tapping into the factory alarm. My solution avoids the painful wire pull, at the cost of making the power windows act as a power source.
Just an option for some people.
Good luck,
Dave

If the controller in the drivers door has a switching output you could wire it to the key switch to control the alarm. I will have to verify what resistor value I wired in parallel to the resistor in the switch. As I said earlier I believe it was 4.6K and they are available at your local Radio Shack.

I just used one of the available holes by doubling up the cables. I can't remember which one I used. This is a picture of the door with the original wiring harnesses before I removed everything and striped it down to repaint. I can tell you that the only way to wire in the doors is to remove each fender so you can have access to the frame and door openings. there is no way to do it with the door and fender in place. If you remove the door you still have to feed the harness through the door while some one holds it close to the frame. In my opinion it is just easier to remove the fender that way it is only a one man job and you don't have to mess with the door alignment.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412634036.jpg

Thanks, Pat. I think what I would need is a latched output. Two wires that are connected when the car is locked, and disconnected when it is unlocked. Some alarms have this kind of an output as a single lead that can control a relay. My simple control box does not really have this option, but a more sophisticated one surely would.
If I was pulling wires into the doors, I would probably just add a new complete alarm/keyless entry system, and ignore the factory one. I don't even know the status of my factory alarm system either.
I am glad you successfully used the factory alarm, and consider that a very elegant solution.
Thanks,
Dave

Yeah. Exactly my thinking.
Dave