Backdate question - What does your frunk look like?
 

I'm planning a backdate project and am torn between going all steel with a used longhood and replacement old-style latch panel vs using a new GT or TRE glass hood with short hood latch.

The all steel route is more expensive but should look OEM in the end. The glass hood should be much easier and cheaper to do.

My question is for those of you that have used the TRE or GT glass hood with short hood latch, is there a big gap between the front bumper and latch area? If you have one, could you post a picture of what this looks like?

Sorry if this has already been covered, I've spent the last two nights searching posts but can't find a picture of what this looks like.

You forgot substantial weight loss going fiberglass....

I hate to be a pest but,

I would go with the "TRE or GT glass hood with short hood latch" option because our cars are only going one way in value.

Is there a gap between the older-style bumper and the short hood latch panel?

Pics anyone?

I did this and there was a gap. But if you are going with a fiberglass bumper you could either fill the gap with a rubber seal or have a piece glassed to the bumper to fill it in. I dont have a pic as the cars is 250 miles away at the moment.

^^^^yep, you are left with a gap. I'm currently trying to find a rubber molding to fill it. I think that one advantage of keeping the short hood front end is that you end up with a larger more workable space for a decent front oil cooler. Run thru the pics on my current build to get an idea:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/748639-evolution-carrera-rst.html
Cheers,
Johan

The trunk wall to bumper center gap is small , when using the long/ short hood conversion.

This is an excellent place to fabricate a 90 degree angled aluminum, or thin guage steel plate. The vertical side to the tub of course, and the horizontal section to support the middle of the bumper.
The bumper sits on top of the plate, which also gives you the solid foundation for fastening the bumper to body seal.
Drill through the center section of the bumper to body seal , with a hole slightly larger than fasteners you intend on using. AS the seal is flexible, you will notice that the holes want to close in a little. This is good as the screws pass through the upper layer into the lower section of the seal.
Ideally you want to use small diameter screws with fender washers. Weld nuts to the bottom side of the support plate. Work the fender washers thru the holes so they sit on the lower part of the hollow seal. Pass the screws through and tighten them down.
Hint: Put this all together first, prep and paint this "tongue" body color. The gap will "disappear"