Exhaust stud remova.\drilll tool

[kavadarci]

Hi,
Does anyone have exhaust stud removal\drill tool that I can buy\borrow?

1976 911 2.7L

Thank you.

p.s. stomski tool is 299 plus 50 shipping to Toronto.
I'm trying to find cheaper alternative for one time use tool.

[T77911S]

when you need it you need it.

buy it, use it then sell it. rent it out here.
I would probably make sure all the other studs are good first.

[theiceman]

Originally Posted by kavadarci

Hi,
Does anyone have exhaust stud removal\drill tool that I can buy\borrow?

1976 911 2.7L

Thank you.

p.s. stomski tool is 299 plus 50 shipping to Toronto.
I'm trying to find cheaper alternative for one time use tool.

how many of them did you break ?

[theiceman]

id probably just build something out of an old flange and some stock steel / copper pipe that fits inside the flange hole.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by theiceman

id probably just build something out of an old flange and some stock steel / copper pipe that fits inside the flange hole.

The bummer is if you want it to be fool proof, depending on your skill set, the machined tool is a better bet.

Would be kind of cool if we set up some kind of rental/loaner tool "team" here.

[kavadarci]

Originally Posted by theiceman

how many of them did you break ?

9 (I think it's a record)
i pulled two out with stud remover but 7 are still there.

[john walker's workshop]

If both studs are broken on the same port, there's nothing to attach the tool with. One stud would have to be hand drilled dead nuts to align the tool for the other stud.
With the myriad threads detailing proper exhaust nut removal without breaking studs, how did this happen?

[c2kid]

i've done them with my tool (homemade, with correct sized discs for port size) with both studs broken with a clamp setup from the stud on the next port. just a bar with correctly spaced pin on one end and hole in the other. washers for spacers to lift the bar on the holding side. the disc on the tool keeps it in place. good bits and an air drill make it go smoother as well. cheers, geoff

[kavadarci]

Originally Posted by c2kid

i've done them with my tool (homemade, with correct sized discs for port size) with both studs broken with a clamp setup from the stud on the next port. just a bar with correctly spaced pin on one end and hole in the other. washers for spacers to lift the bar on the holding side. the disc on the tool keeps it in place. good bits and an air drill make it go smoother as well. cheers, geoff

Any visuals?

[kavadarci]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

If both studs are broken on the same port, there's nothing to attach the tool with. One stud would have to be hand drilled dead nuts to align the tool for the other stud.
With the myriad threads detailing proper exhaust nut removal without breaking studs, how did this happen?

I've read watched everything there is to it.
I followed all the instructions, the two that came out came out with the studs.
Those two were "solid" studs the rest were thinned out in the middle and tiny pressure broke them.

One two I actually attached stud removal tool after they broke off, heated the area around to expand the magnesium (not even mentioning the days of soaking in multiple rust blaster oil), and then the stud broke off again.

It is insane.
M

[yelcab1]

If I ever get one of these jobs again, I am taking an Oxy Acetylene torch to it.

[bigel]

How much would it cost to take it to a machinist? I had the very same problem on three studs and a machinist friend ground the broken studs off at the head and drilled the studs with ever larger diameter bits. One of the studs backed out during drilling (left handed bit) and the others he continued to use larger and larger bits until only the thread remained in the bore. He then was able to use a pick and pull the thread out like a wire.

This may not be cost prohibitive and would likely be a bit quicker than coming up with a homemade fix.

My 2 cents...

[mepstein]

If the engine is getting rebuilt, have the machine shop take care of it all. don't make the problem worse buy mucking up the treads.

[Dpmulvan]

I built an EDM machine because I got sick of screwing around with this sort of issue.

[sugarwood]

Originally Posted by kavadarci

p.s. stomski tool is 299 plus 50 shipping to Toronto.
I'm trying to find cheaper alternative for one time use tool.

If you buy the tool, you are supporting the indep. vendors who make owning these cars still possible after 30+ years.
Consider it an investment in the vintage Porsche community, and an incentive for people to keep innovating, making ownership and preservation possible.

[yelcab1]

Sell it afterwards for $200.

[sc_rufctr]

Originally Posted by Dpmulvan

I built an EDM machine because I got sick of screwing around with this sort of issue.

Hooly Dooly... Way to go. Any more info on how you built that?

[75 911s]

EDM as in Electronic Dance Machine? And ...is it in your car? :-D How quickly does it remove the exhaust studs?

:-P

So Kavadarci, I went through this, albeit with only 3 broken studs. In your case, I would drop the engine and consider a top end. Whether you decide to do the top end, It's a great opportunity to address the myriad leaks and fix the studs right.

So you could reseal, check the tensioners, fix all the leaky oil lines, triangle of death etc while you have it on a stand. Trying to do the studs upside down and under the car, you really risk ruining the heads if you drill them out wrong.

If you're hard headed, buy the Stomski kit (I found one used for 100) they do come up if you're patient. You can still drill one side of one exhaust out very carefully and then use the kit to do the other side. That way at least one side is perfect.

Cut the stud off flat with a dremel, center punch it for a drill guide. Drill the center out (with good high quality NEW bits) Once you have a hole, you might be able to use an easy out reverse bit. Careful if you move up in drill bit size you risk breaking the drill bit off inside the stud.

Use a new stud to mark your drill bit so you don't drill too far into the head. go slow. When you get one side out, put the stomski kit on and do the other stud.

Again, with 12 broken studs, Grab a friend and wayne's book. Drop the engine, separate the trans, put it on a stand, flip it over and do it right. Those studs are a total @$%*(%!@!~

[Jack Stands]

Stomski also sells a drill guide for $18 that centers the drill if you need to drill out a stud. As long as even a small amount of the stud is protruding, it should work great.

[High Life]

What a nightmare. I'm just dreading the day I have to go through this..

Never heard of EDM before this post.. Wow.. Porsche 911 EDM Broken Bolt and Stud Removal | 911 (1965-89) - 930 Turbo (1975-89) | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article

Seems like a last resort.