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3-In-One Electric Motor Oil Hand Tools, Sewing Machines, Fans Bottle 3 Oz - Ace Hardware & Home Centre, Maldives |
TY Rick. Remote... but will go.
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In the factory position with a properly calibrated T-stat the compressor will cycle off at 26+/-2dF... Obviously the inlet area will be colder, think old style steam heat radiator.
In the center position and with extra capilary tubing exposed to cold airflow the compressor will cycle off before the outflow area declines to ~26dF. SmileWavy But, forget all of that, the bottom line is with the T-stat in the full CW position it MUST cycle the compressor off at a high enough AVERAGE temperature that the evaporator doesn't freeze up. That's why it seems a bit foolish to me to target the lowest vent temperatures for proper refrigerant fill levels. You might even get to -10dF:rolleyes:, but you then have to limit the COLD level to 33dF on the average using the T-stat setting to prevent freeze up. Oftentimes owners try to get colder vent temperatures by pulling a larger and larger portion of the capilary tube out of the evaporator core... only to later find they have reached the freeze up zone, or beyond;). |
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Goal was to bring system to near optimal meaning it would operate near its freeze threshold here in Miami---ambient moisture taken into consideration. Given an earlier test comparing temp in outlet of AC blower to vent with +1 dF delta at vent, and core temp test with temp dropping below 32 (albeit with no blower positioned), and driving v-temp at 32+ dF (speed 2 at around 85 outside ambient)... seems safe to say evap is operating at near optimal now. Once upon a time I had noisy AC that blew near cabin temp air. Improvement is understatement. Perfect not necessary. My toying further with system is for fine tweaks and better understanding. Will system hold 32+ dF at vent when ambient is 95 dF during mid summer? Will system now be able to flush car of internal heat reasonably fast after car's been parked in direct sun for 30 scorching minutes? We'll see when next summer comes. Speaking of summer, subject of Targa roof insulation was raised. Don't recall where discussion went on that---insulated...or not(?) With extra roof on hand, am planning to take it apart to find out (and rebuild it.) From what I know, there's exterior skin, then burlap, then metal, then headliner. Seems there's better insulate than burlap to use. Be good for Targa roof expert to chime in. |
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And right, the vent temperature & pressure charge method is "a bit foolish" - only a fool would want cold blowing a/c that quickly clears cabin heat and enables conditions where the compressor is not required to run all of the time to maintain an extremely comfortable interior environment, right? |
Of all the people that doesn't understand.....:rolleyes:
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But it seems to me that focussing on vent temps as the major target leaves one fully open to the possibility, probability, of a low refrigerant charge. For myself, having not the knowlegde to be exact, I would shoot for the lowest vent temperatures but with a limit of suction side pressure indicating P&T temps above freezing. Plus a high enough engine RPM in order to ascertain that at FULL load and perfromance the low side suction would remain in the "safe", non-freezing range. Up to now I Have always relied on the inexpensive kit gauge for topping off systems. But now that I have a gauge set I think the next time I will shoot for the greatest Delta "T", intaking outside airflow, windows open, and with elevated engine RPM. I suspect that procedure will put me in the exact same charge "ballpark" as using the low side gauge reading as the charge level target... awaiting the next HOT day.... next June? *** MY theory...With low refirgerant charge, and/or engine RPM so low that "apparent" charge is low, the core area near the inlet gets plenty of cooling, while the mid to end points on the core doesn't sode the evaporative process is limited to the narrow area near the inlet. Meanwhile the system is working as hard as it might therefore the inlet area quickly drops below freezing, freezes up, and now that freeze "front" slowly progresses across the core until all airflow is blocked. |
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I'm even having trouble with the stated T-stat setrpoint range/span, 26+/-2dF open, 33+/-2dF close. With a "square" hysterisis the average would be below freezing, but one must assume a non-square hysterisis functionality, longer period to go to "close" vs getting to "open". The hot and humid climates that exist in my area of direct knowledge, Memphis, etc, would not allow for that. |
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* Sorry Karl, but I can't sit back quietly and let West call what I do "foolish" when my results say otherwise and he is not qualified to lob a/c criticism my way in the first place. |
I shouldn't have thrown out that old popcorn bag. Thought this was over.
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Wtf
Your v-temps lead pack Ron. Nothing for you to prove AT ALL! (Until I beat it :D Come summer mofo... I'm back in saddle gunning for 009'rs arctictemp.)
You and Will... going off deep end again. Put brakes on that sh** pls. Healthy discussion where we all can learn something... f'in great!... Lov ya but no F'in arguing. (Wayne'll shut this sh** down again if we can't control ourselves.) |
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Very nice write up, I hope to use most of it this winter.
Do you have a list of the O rings needed or their sizes? Thanks Lorne M. |
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High & Low connections at evaporator... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1416577127.jpg Equalization connected to low side plumbing exiting evap. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1416577197.jpg High & Low connections at compressor. (O-rings not in place in this photo.) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1416577282.jpg Depending on your receiver / drier... 2 high line o-rings. I got Kuehl R/D where o-rings were included. (Adaptors were also included so one size Kuehl R/D fits all.) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1416577394.jpg Kick azz on your AC project! :D |
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And be sure to always put a few drops of the oil for the AC system on each o-ring before you put it together. And try hard to not over-tighten the connection. Just a good snug fit is enough. It is real easy to get a gorilla grip on it and over tighten it and smash the o-ring into bits. Don't ask how I know that. |
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I wish I had it in me to overhaul my AC system. I guess i'll just have to fork out the cash to get it better than new someday.
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