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Closer look at resistor pak removed from plastic duct.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414442427.jpg Shunts... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414442439.jpg Will take stab at this and say one shunt gap is too open, other is too tight. Am thinking to make both gaps 3/64." Anyone suggest different measure? Nice shunt note Will. These are very difficult to see when pak is attached to duct. TY |
Gaped both shunts equally (3/64"). Lightly lubricated and cleaned metal with WD-40. Installed & connected. Ran AC for about 10 minutes at different fan speeds... mostly low. Watched WD smoke off---coils do get hot. Success = zero jump from low to medium speed.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414446580.jpg Seemed t-switch was more functional now in that it cut off when turned full CCW. Tested that a few times with same results. Next test = run t-switch at 75% to see response. Now, almost to point where I've nothing more complain about*... Godzilla will be pleased. ;) * I'll find something. |
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You asked about a noise coming from the A/C.... Squirrel cage blower wheel rubbing? |
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Puzzle..
When in low speed both resistors are in the circuit, in series. Should one of them overheat and thereby cause it's associated thermostatic switch to close the blower speed will increase. But.... With the thermostatic switch closed the resistor will/would cool to the point that the closed switch should open and the speed should retard. A cycle back and forth should ensue. The only possible explanation I can come up with is that once the thermostatic switch closes it sticks closed. File/burnish the contacts so the contact surface is smooth..? Or did adjusting the gap solve the problem? |
I would suggest that the blower motor is connected backward resulting a low airflow, but at the same time with it turning backwards less "work" is being done resulting in a lower current flow for the motor, less heating of the resistors.
The alternate explanation. Carpet, etc, is so seriously blocking passenger inlet side flow that most of the system air flow is via the driver's side. Then again... With that one contact gap being so narrow it may be being closed partially from the heat radiating from the opposite resistor. It then closes resulting in more heating of the opposite resistor thereby keeping it closed indefinitely. So adjusting the gap may well have resolved the issue. |
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Drove for an hour today and no jump from low to medium. Had 1 surprising jump from medium to high... that's NEW. I failed to look at shunts with AC on and resistor out so did not check to see how far they move when coils get hot. Might be they need a greater gap than 3/64." Will sand contacts when resistor is pulled---good idea Will. TY again for shunt note. Have not gotten to "noise" yet as planned. Will see about attending in the afternoon. |
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Carpeting. Seems innocuous. But now I realize how important the intake area is and how the carpeting needs to be configured correctly to allow air to easily enter system. It's well configured. And I'm not the dirty bohemian I once was. Evap is going to stay clean now. |
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Karl, the odd noise you describe, as well as the phantom fan speed switcharoos, are likely signs of the previously (many times) mentioned "black death" rearing its ugly head at long last! Have you checked the switch contact points for fines?
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Get technical MONSTER... post your 29.5 dF evac & gas charge method. Or pull popsicle out of your duct. |
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Either Long Beach Wa, or Cannon Beach Oregon. 1978 Targa, coming home from Boise Monday. |
Took a look at shunts in action. This is with fan speed on low, t-switch full CCW, and resistor out of duct. Takes a few seconds for thin coil shunt to close once AC is turned on. Bear in mind there's no air passing over this to cool it.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414617723.jpg Also looked at speed 2 and 3. Shunts did not move. Opened both gaps to just over 1/16" and cleaned contacts with emery. Have no idea if this gap is on, off, or near spec. Will see how it works. Next on today's menu is hunt for vibration coming from evap area. Is noticeable on speed 2 at idle only (as in stopped at red light). Not noticeable when driving due to drive noise. Speed 1 is fine. Speed 3 there's too much air noise from vent to hear it. Took blower housing off - (camera battery dead now) and checked to make sure it was blowing in right direction ;) . Yes. Checked clearance again. OK. Ran at different speeds... it's quiet. Picked up housing when running... and... Unbalanced blower. Missing this fact when checking the motor spin (without touching it) on prior install is error to be added to list. Even with potential problem found, thermo probe in core of evap is isolated from evap as capillary travels from core to exit of plenum, harder stand offs are placed between blower housing and evap, capillary is isolated from outside of plenum as it travels toward cabin. Idea being to squelch vibrations coming from any of these parts/areas. Result - Vibration noise is... much worse now! Next move - Hunt for balanced blower. |
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http://cmwsadler.org/wp-content/uplo...t7-193x300.jpg Quote:
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Clamp the motor in a soft wood jawed bench vise, power it, and use a piece of chalk to see if, how much, the wheel wobbles. If the wheel actually is out of balance you can experiment with placing weights at different points rotationally using that same bench vise technique. If you end up in the market you might want to see if the later motor/wheel will fit, seems to have had more design effort go into it. |
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