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Location: Huntsville, AL
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Glove Box Door Repair

You know how the edges of the glove box door start separating? Has anybody found a good way to fix that?

I tried injecting construction adhesive into and put a couple of clamps on it for 24 hours. When I removed it, it looked great for 5 minutes and then popped right back back up.

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Old 11-05-2015, 05:45 PM
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Hi Pstallo- possibly some good ideas here... '86 Glove Box Repair Ideas...?

Last edited by Missed Approach; 11-05-2015 at 06:21 PM.. Reason: missed a word
Old 11-05-2015, 06:09 PM
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Perfect! Thanks!!
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Old 11-05-2015, 06:45 PM
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Soft foot clamps and adhesive.
Old 11-05-2015, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patz View Post
soft foot clamps and adhesive.
+1
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Old 11-06-2015, 12:12 AM
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Does anyone have an adhesive they recommend? Obviously, construction adhesive, which I thought would setup like concrete, doesn't work well for this particular situation.
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Old 11-06-2015, 04:32 AM
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I tried contact ....it didn't work, not strong enough.....finally with the door removed, cleaned, painted, and like someone said, a warmed over plastic cover so it can be flat, a thin even coat of epoxy with some 5 lbs of weight over night finally worked. Use something that is larger than the area of the cover that is stiff and flat....plate glass, 1/2" ply, and weighted down,.....that plastic cover really wanted to curl up.
BTW its been about 4 yrs since.
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Last edited by ganun; 11-06-2015 at 06:30 AM.. Reason: sp
Old 11-06-2015, 06:29 AM
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Despite having a perfectly good glove box door there was an issue that bugged me that drivers of LHD cars could not fully appreciate. In their infinite wisdom, Porsche decided not to make a driver-friendly glove box door for the RHD market. Imagine if you had to reach over to the passenger window to open the glove box and you'll see where I'm coming from.

I purchased a 2nd hand door of eBay that had the customary failing cover and quickly threw that bit away. I then got a minutely-undersized sheet (2.5mm thick) of alumin(i)um and bent it to fit inside the door (there is a slightly raised lip on the top and side edges).







Four little squares of 2.5mm thick alumin(i)um were welded to the rear of the plate so that the self-tapping bolts had 5mm of material to bite into. These also act like spacers to prevent the plate bowing inwards as the 4 bolts are tightened.



This method allows me to glue foam to the alumin(i)um plate - the foam's pretty dense, the correct thickness and will have a relieving incision on the back where the bend in the alumin(i)um sheet is. Then I'll glue the vinyl to the foam. The vinyl will wrap around and be glued to the back of the plate before screwing the plate to the door with the 4 self tappers, after which the self tappers will be painted black. Effectively, the vinyl covering is trapped and is going nowhere fast.



The new door will have no lock as it's a pointless thing anyway - I've never used them in any car. Opening and closing will be via some sort of push-to-open-push-to-close type thingy and should give a nice clean look as if there is no glove box there at all.

P.S. Anyone know a good source for the exact vinyl to cover the door (preferably UK-based but doesn't have to be).
Old 11-06-2015, 09:32 AM
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I cleaned the surfaces and used epoxy (JB Weld, as I recall, but not the quick-setting type), clamping it using appropriate padding for over 48 hours at room temperature to insure a complete cure.. Worked great and still looks good 5 years later.

Old 11-06-2015, 11:57 AM
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