Best 3.2 seat removal tip I got on Pelican:

While you’re in there, you might as well just install an SW chip.

Hahahaha!

Brilliant! And true.

Classic9 offers seat mount hardware kits (and more)...


http://www.classic9leathershop.com/screws-nuts-bolts-brackets/

Lol...I'm in here now looking for the bolt specs. Such a great wealth of info!

This thread from way back when brings back fun memories. Soak those Allen bolts with rust penetrant, give them some sharp wacks and use a socket driver with an Allen drive head. Just careful not to strip the bolt head obviously.

Re open n old thread. I notice my drives side (86) Targa doesn’t move as much as my pax side. Was going to loosen the bolts and see what’s up. Now I’m wondering.. if it ain’t broke... I see paint torque marks on brass hex bolts. I have a Steve Wong chip that the previous owner did so.. they must have been out.

Figured I’d resurrect this thread since it helped me.

Front seats in my SC would move a few mm on the rails under hard braking. These are factory sports seats.

• Four M6 low profile hex head bolts with washers per seat.
• The hex heads are a pain because they’re in the rails, and may not all be centered: a thin-wall 10mm socket goes a long way. Future job: low profile socket head screws. Must be low profile in the rear otherwise you won’t be able to push the seat all the way back. I reinstalled with new zinc split washers to keep them from budging.
• The best advice is to remove the FRONT screws from the rails first. Then you can push the seat past those screws (which act as stops) and get access to the rear screws.
• Under the seat itself are four socket head screws (and one hex head for me…). The hex head was what had come loose and was allowing the seat to move a little.

Photos below are the screws under the seat (holding the rail to the seat itself). Bonus shot of my seats.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758668600.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758668600.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758668600.jpg