Help! First Project Ever

david911 · 10-05-2002, 12:44 PM

I decided that I could probably handle installing the Brey Krause fire extinguisher mount. I seem to be wrong.

The first step is to remove the seat. I see 6 hex bolts that seem to be the right ones to remove, but they are on tight!. I don't want to strip them, so I have not tried to force it too much.

I notice they have a red and yellow paint mark on each bolt, is this supposed to tell me something?

Is there something I should do to loosen these up?

Help!

David

Don Plumley · Don Plumley's Garage

PB Blaster is great for unsticking stuck nuts. You can get it at any auto parts store.

The paint usually indicates the bolt was torqued.

Those are my guesses - good luck!

Don

Emission · Emission's Garage

I agree with the comment about the paint. Try to pick some of it off if it doesn't allow your tool to get a good seat on the nuts.

If your tool is the right size, take your time and apply some torque!

Good luck.

david911 · 10-05-2002, 02:55 PM

Well, five of the six came loose after wd40 and significant force.

Number 6 is now stripped, i.e. the hex section is now circular

Any ideas?

David

nostatic · nostatic's Garage

vice grips?

Botman · Botman's Garage

4 possibilities:

1. Use an EZ out (your local auto parts store can explain- bring them one of the bolts you removed) or,

2: Try a small pair of vise-grips if you can get them on the head or,

3: Use a hack saw and cut a slot into the top of the allen head so that you can use a screwdriver on it or,

4: Use a drill to drill off the head, and then use a drill bit that is smaller than the threads on the bolt and carefully drill out the remainder.

Take your time, don't panic and good luck.

makaio · 10-05-2002, 03:32 PM

I hope you don't have sport seats. I do, and went through the same crap as you, only to find out that the BK extinguisher mount does not fit factory sport seats

.

ChrisBennet · ChrisBennet's Garage

I don't know if this would have prevented the stripped one but if you break all the bolts free first, it keeps the last one you remove from binding. Put one of the closest bolts on the seat rail back in. This may relieve the stress on the stripped one.

I wouldn't use PB Blaster in the interior of a car. That stuff will really stink for a while if you get it on the carpet.
Seat bolts are inside the seat rail and often somewhat underneath the seat so they are difficult to grab with vise grips or reach with a drill.
Stripping bolts is part of the learning experience. You'll be wiser the next time. IMO. "Experience" is just a euphemism for accumulated remorse.

-Chris

david911 · 10-05-2002, 06:21 PM

Well, the easy out broke off in the hole, I thought it was going to work, but then snap!

A hacksaw can't get in there (front left seat bolt), nor can vise grips.

Maybe a chissel to cut a slot?

I'll give it another shot tomorrow, if I don't get it to work I guess I'll bring it to a shop, which would be total defeat.

I really thought I could do this. Grrr!

David

ChrisBennet · ChrisBennet's Garage

Maybe you can cut a slot with a Dremel tool. Is the bolt a single one, in the front or one of the pair of bolts in the back? (I think I've got that right.)
-Chris

Chuck Moreland · 10-05-2002, 08:23 PM

Well, before you bust a blood vessel. The seats are secured with 4 bolts, not 6. And depending on year, they may not be hex head, but instead socket cap screws (Allen heads)

The 4 bolts are in the center (width wise) of the sliders.

Sounds like you me be after the wrong items.

APKhaos · 10-05-2002, 10:25 PM

When the hex heads fail [in your hands or courtesty of the PO] a Torx40 will work nicely to help the bolt out. Some WD40 first is advisable. but the Torx will do the job in most cases.

Bobboloo · Bobboloo's Garage

In the older cars pre 74' the seats brackets are mounted with six 5mm hex head screws.

Is there room to get a propane torch on the bolt without burning the seat? If so heat the head up and then grab it with vise grips and turn. You'll probably have to repaint the bracket afterwards.

If that doesn't work then just chisel the head off. After you chisel the head off there should be enough of a stub to grab with pliers and turn out. It should turn out easy after the torque has been relieved unless it's rusted in. If that's the case then file it flat and drill it out with a small bit so as not to damage the threads.

Actually now that I think about it. You could just undo the hex head screws (4 per side 8 per seat) that mount the seat rail to the bracket.

Bobby
P.S Yeah what Chuck said ...

david911 · 10-05-2002, 11:33 PM

There are definitely 6 hex (allen-type) bolts. 1 in the front, 2 in the rear on each side. They take a 6mm allen wrench. I will try and get a torx wrench, I don't have one that size. I think it should be possible to chissel of the top, and then maybe drill out the bolt.

David

scottb · 10-06-2002, 12:25 AM

I don't know the seat bolts, so if this is completely off-base, please, Pelican brothers, don't flame me.

Can you get in there with a Dremel tool and grind the head off, and then remove the remainder of the bolt once the seat is out of the way?

david911 · 10-06-2002, 08:19 PM

Well, after much effort, I got the bolt out by using the dremmel to grind off the top. The seat then came out relatively easily.

The brey krause mount does not fit

It hits the motors on the seat. I ordered the one for power seats, and I don't think I have sport seats. My seats have electric forward and rear height control, and manual fore and aft and seatback controls.

I will have to call OG racing and see what they say!

It is also a royal pain to put the seat back in place, though I managed all but one bolt. I guess that will be tomorrow's project.

Are all projects like this? These bolts were really hard to get to, otherwise it would have been easier. Please tell me that other folks have difficulty getting the seat out!

David

Bobboloo · Bobboloo's Garage

Not all projects are like that. In fact some are worse. (Changing rusty heat exchangers comes to mind). But you'll find that the second time you do a given project it gets easier.

Taking your time and enjoying the process with a little music and a beer seems to help.

Bobby

scottb · 10-07-2002, 07:17 AM

Quote:

Are all projects like this?

First of all, take a deep breath. You're dealing with an old car, and things like frozen bolts or stripped bolt heads are going to happen. It comes with the territory. Half the fun of working on these cars is overcoming challenges when they're presented to you. Most of the time, a little thought and/or a post on this board will get you your answers.

Sit back, relax, and enjoy the ride.

david911 · 10-24-2002, 09:58 PM

Well, I have suceeded. I had the mount for non-power seats, the power seat one worked fine. Of course once it was installed on the driver's seat, the seat would not move forward enough to let the wife drive, so I was able to practice doing it all again on the passenger side. I should barely be able to reach it.

I also had a great deal of difficulty with the actual extinguisher mount, but I was finally able to modify one to work. It is in securely, but I would like to have another strap around it in addition to the metal one. Do you know of a place to get another metal band or, alternatively, do you think a velcro strap would work?

Thanks for everybody's help!

David

Don Plumley · Don Plumley's Garage

Congrats!

I was able to get a second strap from a local fire extinguisher shop - they guy had a box of old brackets and he just gave me one.