Windshield instal questions

[ARCSinAK]

Hi Gentleman-

In the process of getting my damaged 911's back on the road. 4 windshield to go. I have a couple questions about windshield installation. I live on Kauai and the glass shops here are starting from zero like me, very hesitant to even try, so I am going to tackle this task on my own, using my own homework, it seems to be one of the most challenging 911 repair operations. I contacted a couple of high end restorers on the mainland and they say they even farm it out to specialists.......My questions are as follows:

1. I purchased OE seals per the threads I have read, however both the front and rear have a white film/layer on the black, Stodards said use Dawn to wash it off, well I tried that with no luck. Has anyone encounter this with factory seals? How does one my them black prior to inserting the metal trim?

2. I have read Wayne book and other thread but I wanted your advice on the gauge and type of pull string to use. Lawn mower pull cord, VW guy said smooth weed eater line???? I was thinking about using one of wires in electrical ROMEX??? What is the best diameter?

3. The parcel shelf was damaged, I had it recovered in black vinyl, is it best to leave this UN-installed and replace it after the rear glass goes in?

4. There seems to a 50/50 oppinion of whether the factory used matic in the corners? I found a grey soft material in the corner of the rear on my 80SC?
Seems like if the water makes it past the metal body flange this sealant in a moot point. Do the experienced recommend using any sealant when installing glass?

5. I friend in Idaho was nice enough to ship me a original rear window from a 912 that his has converted in to a light weight. However, I noticed that the de-frost wires only run through about 1/3 on the glass, instead on the full length. The wires from my 80sc are now too short and will not connect to the terminals Another bump in the road.
Wondering if its worth it to deal with extending the wires, trying to thread the wires through the seal, ect, in a climate that averages 70+ degrees. Do you have to place a blanket on the deck lid, then get the wires around the seal, and then attempt to get the metal trim installed while the glass is rest on the opening?????



Thanks for your thought and time.

Regards-

JS

If anyone comes on vacation to Kauai and need local knowledge, beach toys ect, feel free to contact me.

[19-911-65]

1- Acetone to wipe down the powder from the rubber
2- A cotton rope 3/16" or so, let it terminate at the bottom middle of the glass; you can tape the string off to the inside of the glass to hold it out of the way.
3- I installed my rear glass with the parcel shelf cover in place.
4- I came back with a 3M product in a caulking tube, I don't remember what it was now. I do believe it was a non-hardening sealant used mostly in the lower corners
5- ??, I have no experience with this.

Rubber seal around the glass, then the aluminum trim gets installed, install the cord. The aluminum trim has a cleat on it as does the inside of the rubber seal, pia!

Your area glass shops should have a spray lubricant...it was in an aerosol can. Ask around, this is good stuff. Get a friend to lend you a hand on this...I assisted a glass shop technician with mine. He had a set of the suction grippers.

Lift the glass, one person on each side, install the bottom edge first, then work up the sides. For me it was a tedious job, yet the glass just "sucked" into place as the cord was pulled around the glass. Its a tight fit.

Across the bottom first, 3-4" up each side alternating from side to side and then across the top from side to side like the sides.

Let someone else chime in here that has also installed a windshield or two, best of luck!

[ARCSinAK]

Acetone Ill try that right now. Wonder if lacquer thinner will will work.

Not sure what the sealant does if the seal fails or is not completely seated then I would expect the water to just sit in the corners and assist the formation of rust.

Thanks, this topic seems to evoke respect even from the most talented. PIA seems to be the first work spoken, never been to back down from a challenge.
Hopefully more people will share their experiences.

[19-911-65]

The sealant goes between the rubber seal and the body. It is self leveling and will fill any voids. As you may know these cars are famous for rusting out in the lower corners and after the ka-billion hours we spent welding and rust repair, it was my attempt to ward off the rust monsters...;-)

[jittsl]

All I've ever used is Amourall to clean the rubber. It also makes it slip a little better when installing. Never used any sort of Mastic and never had a leak. If you use the factory rubber and a good quality or original screen this really should be no big deal. Can be a nightmare with cheaper rubbers or Chinese windscreens. Only one I ever had a fight with is the rear screen on my targa.

I am certain that the rear deck can be removed and installed with the rear screen in (it's only secured by the baggage strap loops) so if it needs repairs leave it out. It will make it easier to install rear screen.

I must confess that I never bother to reconnect the rear defroster. They never seem to work fully, they are pain to connect and are unused in Texas.

[wayner]

3M Auto Bedding and Glazing Compound 8509

Non hardening.
Cleans up with mineral spirits

[cashman]

How did the acetone work? I had the ame question at the bottom of this thread.

Which windshield seal do I have?

[ARCSinAK]

Did not have Acetone so I tested lacquer thinner to remove the white residue, seemed to work well.

[RD911T]

Mine was a 2 man job. They tried it starting from the bottom and couldn't get the lower corners to stay. Then they tried starting at the top with one guy on the outside pushing up. They kind of slapped the glass to make sure it was seating as they went around. Going from the top, those lower corners almost sucked in and it was done. The hardest part was getting the trim in the rubber.

[Dpmulvan]

I have to do this on my targa front and back not looking forward to it!!

[ARCSinAK]

I stripped and painted my trim, had the glass tinted I am now running out of steps before go time. Any tricks for inserting the trim into the rubber??
Wood block to tap in trim?

[RD911T]

Strong hands, especially thumbs. The two young guys that did mine used a lot of the spray (it's actually glass cleaner) mentioned above, and inserted the trim and used their thumbs to peels back the outer edge of the rubber and lift it up over the lip on the trim.

[fiminod]

The installation: install new weather-strip to the w/s, apply silicone to the groove where the aluminum trim goes and press that into place fully and carefully - you can bend it easily. Use DOW 111 compound which is a silicone grease [from McMaster-Carr] on the w/s and the windshield opening [after you have removed all the foreign stuff there]. Using a 1/8 nylon cord stuffed into the groove where the pinch weld will go, cross over at the bottom and with two assistants set the w/s into place at the bottom. This is where the experience counts. Someone has to know where to push, how much to push and slap and the inside guy has to be the cord puller and verbal guide. pull the cord ends evenly while your assistants push and slap to keep it going where it's supposed to go. Pull the cord all the way around until they meet at the top.

[Josh D]

I just did my windsheild on Saturday. Not too hard of a job. I had already replaced the rear window seal a few months ago, so had some practice. Here's my couple of tips:

1. My corners had some surface rust, so I wire brushed well and painted channel with Rustoleum enamel

2. I used dish soap, slightly thinned with water, and a small brush to apply to the trim groove. This really helps get the trim in the groove. squeezing the trim with my hand, palm on trim side, while manupulating the seal, it went in pretty easy. One area around a corner was stubborn so I used a racheting clamp to push it home.

3. I used two suction cups I bought at Harbor Freight to manipulate windshield into place. Not mandatory, but helps when doing this solo as I did

4. I used a nylon cord over cotton, as it slides easier over the rubber when inserting and drawing it out

I used a cheap Chinese windsheild ($104) and the OEM seal bought on Pelican and had no issues with either.

[ARCSinAK]

I have the rear window ready to go, rubber on trim installed, curious which side of the window to start the instal top or bottom? Parcel shelf is out so I will be able to see the seal sitting on top of the flange. And tricks for the rear would be great.

Thanks,
JS