Removing Ignition Switch/Lock from SC
 

So today I went for a short drive - one that ended in tears because car wouldn't start - the key just turned in the lock and wouldn't start. Push started the car - got home and took the keys out - car still running. Pulled the fuel relay to stop it, disconnected the battery and went to the '101 projects' book for the 'how to replace the ignition lock'

I have the ignition switch/lock undone from the front, and I loosened the nut holding onto the steering lock as per the instructions, which then just say 'remove from the car'.

http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5u6x6ceb.jpg

Here is where I am at right now. The car has an old 'clifford' keypad installed (no longer hooked up) and that is where there is an extra hole.

What I am trying to work out is if there is something else I need to remove?

http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/...psj6cvusgo.jpg

I think number 22 is the one I loosened as per the instructions.

But what about 25 and 26? Is that going through the lock somewhere and has to be undone?

How do you get the lock out - do you push it back through the panel, the pull towards the door? What motion does it have to come out with?

Any help appreciated on this one.

I believe you need to remove 22 and 23, not just loosen 22. 25 and 26 secure the steering column to the dash sheet metal, no need to remove these.

With 20, 21, 22, 23, 36 and 37 removed, the lock would be removed by moving it outboard to the left. Rocking the steering wheel left/right, may me needed if the locking bolt is binding.

If the car won't start or shut off with the turning of the key, you may only have to troubleshoot item 36 after removing item 37. The lock assembly has nothing to do with ignition other than the key lock tumbler (24) is mechanically connected to the ignition switch item 36. Maybe 36 is loose from the lock assembly and only needs to be reinstalled.

With the ignition switch 36 loose from the lock assembly, can you turn the switch with a screw driver to start/stop the engine?

Ok how do you remove 23? It looks like a grub-screw with no head? I did take off 22 completely only to re-read that it only needed to be loosened so it's back on at the moment (and didn't that take some finger dexterity)

I haven't got 36 loose from the assembly yet - I did read up on some methods to remove this and leave the rest of the lock in place - however the key has been binding a few times and I have mismatched ignition/door locks so was thinking about it as an opportunity to have a locksmith take a look at it.

If I can figure out how to remove 23 I might have another go - but then I might try just removing the switch without undoing the entire assembly. My usual method of service is to remove as few parts as possible.

Once the knee pad is out of the way,
23is an Allen set with locking nut 22
There is an electrical connector for buzzer
Unplug the wire unit connected to the back og 36
2 flat head screws 37 hold 36 to the back of the key unit
Reassemble using 2 6mm bolts where the break off bolts were used.
Bruce

What Flat6pac said. Item 23 is an allen set screw.

Ignition switch test........
 

Your ignition switch system comprises of two (2) major components. Ignition switch (mechanical lock - #24) and the electrical tumbler (electrical connections -#36). Remove and test #36 before removing ignition switch (#24). The problem could be just the electrical tumbler. If part #36 is good, then the culprit could be part #24. Keep us posted.

Tony

OK so I got the lock and switch out after finding just the right size hex key at the bottom of the toolbox and clipping some cable ties to get the loom out of the way.

Next problem...

http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/...psvnqflima.jpg

The red arrow is what is left of the little shaft that drives the rotator in the ignition switch. It has sheared off the back of the lock.

List price on an ignition lock unit is near enough to $1,000 - not keen on going down that route.

EDIT: ok so my arrow doesn't appear to be showing up, but it's easy to see the broken shaft in the picture.

I had a similar situation when I bought my car. PO would put a key in the ignition just to unlock the steering column and he kept a flat blade screwdriver in the car to start it by sticking it in the back of the electrical connection and twisting.

$1k is about the going rate. If you shop around you might be able to find one for a little less. I think I found mine for about $350 less and it was new. The lock cylinders tend to wear out over time. It seems to be a fairly common thing so just be aware of that if you find something used at a good price.

Also if you get a new or used one it won't match your current key. To keep from having to deal with two keys you can have the new one keyed to match your current key. I used Tony Euganeo because he has a great reputation on here and I got tired of trying to find someone local. Also someone like Tony could easily refurb the lock cylinder on a used one and make it like new.

The existing one didn't match the door keys anyway and the break off bolts were already broken off, so I guess it's not the first time.

I can't see myself spending a lazy k on the lock at this point so I'll see if the shaft can be replaced with something else.

Post a WTB thread.
Don't know where you are located but there are usually a bunch of good used ones for sale at the Hershey PA. swap meet. Bought one there last year for $100.00.

I have repaired that exact problem. I used a small drill bit to make another groove/slot in the base. Then, I hand cut and filed a small metal tab to fit into the groove (tightly) and extend the correct distance into the electrical portion. I used JB weld to bond the tab into the base, let it set over night, and it worked perfectly.

I put the fix into a thread, with pictures, but I can't find it right now. Do a search with my user name in the Tech section and you may find it before I do.

Used prices seem to be all over the place - from $100 in good working order to $350 with no keys and damaged.

I guess I'm going to put back the broken one and be starting the car with a screwdriver until a suitable replacement comes along.

Thanks for that..something to work on.

Did you drill out the pin holding in the ignition barrel to get it apart? That is my first move?

I'll try and find your thread.

Now that Coastr has his problem well on its way to being solved, perhaps I can hijack a bit... The steering column lock on recent Corvettes (well, and not so recent, too) is a well known failure mode, with aftermarket manufacturers making gizmos to bypass the whole column lock altogether. So, I can't help wondering if the column locks on Porsches are prone to failure in any significant numbers. Of course, the Corvette thing is whole different ballgame... 'motor driven' locking and all that.

Rob

Let's not put the 'problem solved' cart before the 'still got problem' horse !

I found the ossiblue thread:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/597665-ignition-switch-fix-mechanical.html

Now I just need to find someone with a dremel or go and buy one. This type of repair is traditionally not something I excel at.

I have two one is new as soon as I have my locksmith neighbor make keys for them I will let you know

Feel free to PM me with the details if you have one for sale.

By the way, if you put your location in your profile you stand a better chance of finding someone local that can help.

Ah, there are approximately zero people on Pelican local to me that I don't already know! But point taken.

I went thru exact same prob on my 83 SC last year. Spent the $950 or so and had it replaced. Then, next problem --- you know have different key for ignition and door lock. A real pain in the #$%. Plus the new key of the new ignition has this tiny key head --- so small that does not provide enough surface to grab/grip or enough torque to turn the ignition. I need to buy a new key head --- the original Porsche one to fix this problem. It just goes on and on.