Chris, thank you for your help

Yes I had the rack opened up to allow the slightly larger pinion. I actually using an igus bearing material for both the puck and the bushings on the end of the housing. Once I get home I will take those measurements. I can move the rack but it seems stiff

David

Looks like it was helpful for me to bring this thread back.
I too found the rack to be stiff now that is back in car. I'm hoping I just put too much grease in and it will work it way out.
What a PITA putting it back in.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1554125611.JPG

Doing my steering rack disassembly for a rebuild now. How did ya'll remove the coupling flange? I cant get a good grip on it because the housing is in the way. What's the trick? Porsche says to use a special tool, but im sure there's an easier way! Thanks!

I used a puller.
Didn’t take much.

I installed the two long rubber coupling bolts then inserted a flat pry bar between them to hold the yoke.
I am not sure whether the pinion stops at the end of the rack gear teeth first or the puck hits the curved end of the flat milled on the bottom of the rack first. Maybe I worry too much, but it seems that the pinion or puck might get damaged, if the coupling yoke is not held.
Spreading my paranoia around a bit more, I worry about the puck and pinion if the rack is not held from rotation while loosening or tightening the tie rod ends onto the rack.
Chris

Any adjustable wrench fits in the yoke for tightening up the nut.

Perfect timing for me as well! This is today's project. Thanks for posting!

The rack has flat sides on it to allow use of a wrench to hold it. You're correct that you don't want the force of loosening/tightening the tie rods to stress the puck or pinion

1 inch open end wrench on rack
 

Hi Kevin,
My 74 had only one flat, (as did the Quaife quick rack replacement). I thought about using a 1 inch open end, (fairly close fit) on the flat, then using a fiile file to take off any burrs, so as not to bugger the bushing in the end of the housing.
Reassembling on the bench, I can use a couple of ground down service wrenches to tighten the tie rods, without twisting on the puck or the pinion.

Cheers,
Chris

Chris,

Good to know, as I believed all racks had flats on top and bottom that would allow use of a wrench to counterhold the rack while turning the ball sockets for the tie rods. Sorry to hear the Quaife quick rack doesn't have flats on both sides because I have one of those coming in the mail as we speak!

Thanks
Kevin

Trying to get the coupling flange off I couldn't get a good hold on the flange with any tools. Took more time fiddling with wrenches and tools than it did to drill three holes in a plank of wood and screw the rack to it! It was on pretty tight. Totally recommend this way... quick and easy and holds it super steady!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1556240620.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1556240620.jpg

Hello, I need help!
I've just finished my steering rack rebuild but i don't understand the adjustment procédure:
First is it the same procédure for 911 sc?
My pressure block doesn't protude from the housing, he is 0,5 mm inside.
The recess in housing cover plate is 5,5 mm.
So the gap is 6mm, nothing to do with the 0.2 mm they are talking in the procédure.
I notice that my pressure block is very slighty worn (0.1to 0.2mm).

Thank for your help!

My rack was incredibly difficult to turn. When I removed the pressure block it was only slightly easier to remove, Same with the bearing plate. it was not until I loosened the nut on the yoke that the effort significantly dropped. I doubt that I over torqued the nut because the torque to remove was relatively low. There is also no binding of the new pinion.

Thanks

David

Is the yoke the coupling flange? If so, be sure you are assembling in the right order. I was confused as to where the washer went. It goes under the coupling flange... I thought it went on top of it at first since I figured a washer goes under the nut. Maybe it acts as a spacer? Maybe when you tighten the nut, the flange is hitting the body a little? As for adjustment, I just reassembled with all the thin shim washers that were on it. Steering rack is smooth. I did find that the needle bearing in the smugglers box wasn't moving very well. Cleaned that up and greased it.

Oh yea, "O" ring, washer, yoke (coupling flange) and then nut. My old and new pinion look the same. I have to assume that the yoke is binding on the case some how

The large bearing is below the housing by .089mm. How many shims should I be using?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1557076109.jpg

It's safe to say to use the same shims and order as before. If anything this should make it easier to turn with worn parts.
If you look at my link above, having the needle bearing (if you took it out) in the correct position directly effects how much you can tighten up the yoke.

Please show me where this is.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/931857-steering-rack-bushing-bearing.html

This link should help, but in the smugglers box there’s a U bracket held in place with 2 Allen bolts. It holds a black rubber cylindrical bushing that the steering shaft goes thru. Inside the bushing is a needle bearing. Replacement with OEM is pricey and not as good as some other cheaper options. Mine was fine so I just cleaned and regreased it.