Where is the turn signal flasher relay in a '78 SC?

[Jdub]

Where is the Hazard / Turn Signal Flasher located in a '78 SC? Have pored over the wiring diagrams and my fuse box looking for "J1" the Hazard / Turn Signal Flasher, understand what I am chasing, but for the life of me, I cannot find the location for the turn signal flasher unit (a square 4-pin relay, right?).

Here is a pic of my fusebox (fuel pump/tempostat/horn relays shown) and I've checked under the dash - no joy!



I've pored over our wiring diagrams and am chasing "J1" in the 33 - 35 columns here:



Background: Signals simply do not flash, but all are receiving current correctly via stalk to each side and indicator, and emerg. flash switch lights correctly - but nobody is flashing.

Thanks for the help!

[tirwin]

In my '83 it is behind the instrument panel kinda rightish of the tach if you're looking at the front of the car. You can probably reach it from the trunk area. I was able to but it was tight.

[Jdub]

Well no sooner do I post this than I see figure 971-12 in my Bentley - DOH!

Now that I have your attention - would you also guess that my condition of all lights working fine, but no blink, mean the relay board has broken or otherwise? That is, the relay is toast? I will check all the connections but if I can save $15...

[pete3799]

[bugstrider]

JDub,

Ironic timing on this, our car is experiencing this same issue. Replaced the lever with high beam and signals functioning as designed, then "poof" no blinky. How did you test your relay?

Cheers Trevor

[Jdub]

Bug: I haven't yet accessed the relay, but will do so today. My thought is to purchase a replacement after all since this can't be a bad addition to the toolkit. I will swap a new one in and see what happens or, failing that, do a bench test (will let you know the procedure when I figure that out!).

The fuse for this relay covers the back up, brake, turn signal flasher, and cruise, and sits from the front of the fuse box back 11 positions ("S11" in the schematics). So, it would be logical to test these items and see if they too are kaput. If so, it is a simple fuse replacement (to start). If not, off to getting into the bulkhead to find this relay and do an R&R.

[Royze]

the easiest way to approach this relay,

- remove the OIL/FUEL insturment
- look through and you should see the relay sitting right behind where the oil insturment was.

[universeman]

I believe I have a water leak through the windshield and I believe that is playing havoc with my relay as well.

All my lights work but when I pull the stalk to signal left (or is it right?), I get both arrows on the dash blinking instead of one. Outside blinkers look fine.

I have the relay, think I'll replace it today and see if it changes the situation/update you guys here.

I have heard that behind the oil/fuel gauge is the way to get to it, per Royze. My speedo is currently out and I don't see anything behind there at the tach area so it may be further left.

[universeman]

Update: I was able to pull the relay easily by tracking it down in the frunk and pulling it and its wire forward from behind the fuel/oil gauge. Only after removing oil gauge did I see that this was possible, however. You can probably reach around and find your relay in that area.

On the left in the pic attached was the old relay, on the right is the new one I replaced it with. Replacing the relay did fix the "left-hand-both-flasher-indicators-in-the-dash-lighting-up-problem", but now my right flasher blinks 2x faster than left.

So I get to track that down, but at least it's some progress.

[Jdub]

Most excellent - any water damage found? I note that the flasher relay has a continuous flow of current since it must drive the emerg. flasher with ignition OFF, so folks should be sure to pull the negative cable off of the battery prior to replacing.

Disparity of the turn signals is almost always the fault of a good versus mediocre ground. My advice (and I followed this myself) is to purchase new fuses and put them in right across the entire fuse box - all of 'em and throw the current set away. Fuses from the same manufacturing lot have less of a chance to flow differing current. Next, purchase good quality German bulbs (Ostrom?) and retrofit these into your sockets, being sure to clean the bulb contact areas so you have a clean fit.

[universeman]

It seemed really dry back there Jdub. I don't know where the water is coming in. Planning some experiments at next rainstorm involving crumpled paper towels in strategic spots.

I installed one of these on my car and it really is so nice to have, I don't find myself being lazy about disconnecting and reconnecting the battery: Pelican Parts - Product Information: PEL-GE-BCOS-01

I think grounding at one of the light assemblies is my issue. I will chase it down bulb by bulb from here and report back.

[Royze]

Glad that worked out for you.

I was in the same boat just 2 weeks ago and I was clueless, it seems like
the relay that you had on your car must have been old and the faster blinking rate
is because the new relay is stronger and that's how it should be if the relay was in good condition.
(information from my mechanic)

[universeman]

update: I took the cover off the front blinker light, and the bulb is fused into the socket. Jiggled and worked it but didn't want to break the bulb. The enclosure itself is broken and probably needs to be replaced. So I put it back together.

Now both flashers work perfectly. Ghosts in the machine maybe.

[universeman]

Update on leak- after rains here in Austin it appears that I have a leaky windshield seal. It will get replaced sometime soon, but a trick I used to stop it from leaking temporarily was to stuff some shop towels into the two bottom corners of the windshield between the dash and the glass, and one in the center. My theory is that the towels put pressure on the windshield outward toward the seal and seemed to stop the leak. A temporary fix but perhaps one that will help others.

[Jdub]

Hey Jason - any link here between the flasher relay and the leak you are experiencing? It's not causing any rust/corrosion, is it?

I ended up laying a bead of silicon into the rubber seal. Used a flat ended cuticle stick (wood) to raise the lip as I laid in the beading. Cleaned up excess and that is that.

BTW - my flasher relay is replace, all working well, but note that I have had some sulpher smell and tach needle bouncing, so am thinking maybe I am causing some issues by ignoring the need for a rebuilt alternator - gonna tackle that next.