LEAK Finally Fixed the Darn Oil Return Pipe with 36MM/32MM nuts
 

I just wanted to share my OIL LEAK FIX!

The Story:

About 4.5 years ago I had a wrench try to fix my oil leaks. I was just too busy and really wanted the damn oil stop doing the Valdez on my drive way. Unfortunately, on day 3, the fix created more leaks. Oh the Joy. I was just too busy to take her back so, I chalked it up to "Eh, It's 911, it supposed to leak". Right Fellas?

My main culprit was the 36MM Oil Return Pipe Fitment that goes into the 32MM nut to the engine block.

It was loose ever since he replaced my 5 oil return tubes. To be honest, not sure if he even checked to make sure it was secure. But seriously, the oil return pipe was loose to the touch, moving up and down and the 32MM fitment moving on the engine block. :eek: I can see the darn oil dripping not sweating but dripping. I tried to use a punch tool to tighten it, So I said to self, Yeah right Moron, there is no easy way.

I was really dreading this task because I read all the horror stories about locating a skinny wrench or something extra special and rusty nuts. Not to mention having to remove the oil return tubes to be able to tighten the two nuts (36/32MM). Oh the Joy.

TASK:

So I pulled the trigger.

Drained engine only. It dumped 3.5 Qts of oil. Take NOTE ( I recently changed the oil so did not want to waste all the new oil in her )

Removed the Stainless Steel Engine Piping to Heat Exchangers

To my delight, the three 8MM Barrel nuts and 13MM Hex Lock Nut, looked in great condition. I guess one of the only benefits of a leak is, it will keep the metal rust free??? JKDs but lucked out!

I sprayed some Kroil on those 6, the 3 Cat/Exchanger nuts, 36/32MM nuts, Return Tube at Engine Block.

The heat exchanger came right off, using a 13MM crows foot with angled extension and lucky the mechanic used the updated gaskets. :cool:

OMG!, it was filthy fully of caked on old oil from 4.5 years of being an imbecile and driving like that. What the heck is wrong with me?

RETURN TUBE REMOVAL:

I removed the CirClip, used a BFS and pryed the tube back to expose the green o-rings :D. Popped right out and proceed to use the BFS to push the end back just enough to clear the 36MM/32MM nuts.

I know, I know, I should replace it but, I was very gentle and did not touch the o-ring with the BFS.

36MM/32MM NUT.

I used the BIG OIL Line Black Wrenches used to remove the super tight 36MM nut to Front Oil Cooler line for the engine drop.

I held the 32MM nut, loosened the 36MM and unscrewed more than half way to make certain the 32MM wrench will have enough room for the wrench to have enough clearance. I had a replacement crush washer but the one that was in there was pristine so I thoroughly cleaned the area and torqued it down.

Unfortunately, I did not have a 32MM Crows foot so I used the "Snug and 1/8 turn" technique.

Well, that was not enough, the weight of the pipe just makes the 32MM fitment move. So I went another 1/8". Sucker will never move again :D

I proceeded to tighten the 36MM Oil Pipe Nut. BTW, no special skinny tools needed if you loosen the 36MM nut. I held up the oil return pipe and torqued the 36MM down. You must hold the pipe up or it will ride on the Heat exchanger. Ask me how I know :-/

The Oil Line Wrenches are a GOD SEND :-). Thanks Brother JinKatin SmileWavy

Success, Oil Return Pipe is SOLID as it should be. :D

BACK TO THE OIL RETURN TUBE:

I cleaned both engine Block and Green O-ring, added motor oil.

Used a vise grip to hold the Valve side and a BFS to gentley push the tube back in. Plopped right in with a little pressure. The Vise grip side with the valves popped out half way so I used the vise grip to pop it back in. Replaced CirClip. Insured circlip is not touching the return pipe since I pushed the pipe up to clear the exchanger.

HEAT EXCHANGER:

I had a spare generously donated by Brother GILLES&KATHY. SmileWavy Mine had a leak. Yes, exhaust leak at the cat/mufler connection.

18 ft lbs on all nuts

30 ft lbs on the Muffler Straps

Added 3.5 QTS OF NEW OIL:

Started her up. BE WARNED IT WILL SMOKE :eek: So I drove around the neighborhood to my uppity neighbor's dismay until smoke dissipated. Pulled into a gas station and verified, NO LEAKS :D Hoorah!

Hopped on the Freeway to bring her up to Operating Temps to top off the oil to the middle hash mark on the dip stick. ( for the noobs, just incase but we no better right :-) )

Pulled into my garage, filled the oil, looked below. YUREKA! she be DRY! :D

Why the heck did I wait so long to do this???

Jim

The Culprit after Fix
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...pssa2mp8o0.jpg
Yes, I placed a mark <

Item #18
http://cf-design911-2.datadial.info/...11_1984-86.gif

The Oil Return Tube that needs to be Loosened:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...pslosldcrw.jpg

Updated 8MM Barrel Nut and 13MM Lock Nut
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...pseczdnevl.jpg

Mini Valdez
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...psws8xhrpt.jpg

Exhaust Leak even with New Gasket
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...psgvezusqg.jpg

Thanks Gilles
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...psnoagsar7.jpg
Will take a pic after week to verify she be DRY :D

Congrats on fixing your leak!

One note - is that a nylon lock nut on the heat exchanger? If so, I'd recommend swapping that out for a different fastener. The nylon won't survive in that environment and the 'lock' functionality won't be worth much.

Looks like a 13mm nylock nut on your exhaust stud(s) in the picture. I sure would use some copper exhaust nuts..http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...pseczdnevl.jpg

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/media/ca...c16f43e6_1.jpg

Thanks Fellas,

That is what I thought, but these nuts have been on for over 4 years vs my other side with ones I replaced 3 years ago that had rusted out.

BTW,

Where do you get these:

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/media/ca...c16f43e6_1.jpg

I believe I ordered them from our sponsor a couple of years ago.

Tom

^^^ Our Host?

Yep, that's where I got mine as well. Our host sells the copper lock nuts.

+2, the same ones on the passenger side that rusted :-/ but I don't think they sell the "SLIT" version, which would be cool. Calling them now.

Confirmed, our Host only sells the oblonged end copper clad nuts M8x13Hex

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...st/1-8-3-8.jpg

900-910-097-02

Thought I got these from Pelican.... They are 12mm.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1429288283.jpg

Here it is.
1978 Porsche 911 SC Coupe - Miscellaneous & Hardware - Page 1

^^^ x 2, Yeap those are 12MM Hex for the Cat/Muffler fitment.

I think Heat Exchangers require 13MM Hex, No? I guess it would not matter as long as they fit as M8's, right?

Nice job Jim!

No need for lock nuts on the exhaust IMO. They don't come loose. In fact we all struggle to get them loose! Even when a lot of anti-seize is used on regular nuts, they still don't loosen.

That is what I have used (12mm hex) on my heat exchangers. The flange at the bottom on the nut will make it hold. Use anti-seize.

Mind you, I have the old style heat exchangers. On my car the 12mm hex makes it easier to get a wrench on a couple of the nuts.

Thank you KTL!

Brother Gordon, I was thinking the same. Those 13MM Hex are really tight space wise. Had to use a swivel extension and crows foot.

Any who, ordered the PAG 13MM Hex Copper Clad

Jim, glad you got that pesky leak fixed!;)

It always bothered me especially that day when you said you smelt oil burning :-)

Not blaming you, heck that was two years ago. I am such a procrastinator and it was so easy to do.

My bad...!:D I do that to people...;)

Unfortunately someone changed mine the po or a moron mechanic and cracked my case.