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broken spark plug Carrera 911 1987

I have a 1987 Carrera 3.2L. I had to change all the spark plugs and the valve cover seals. I do this in my garage and the engine is in the car. It has been running very good for the past 7 years that I have owned it, but it is leaking oil a bit.

Yesterday, when I removed the six Bosch spark plugs, number 5 on the right side, broke in two eventhough the effort was light and I was using a 13/16 inch socket.

The top end part of the electrode in continuity with most of the thread is still in the head of the cylinder... The other part is in my hands!

Does anyone know what to do with this and how I can do that without taking the engine out.

Old 04-12-2015, 06:47 AM
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I think you will need to be sitting down for the answer.

With as deep as the plugs sit in the head, you may have to do more than drop the engine. That head just might have to come off. The threaded section that is missing is quite then and I'm not sure you can get it out without having the head off and maybe even employ a milling machine...

I hope I'm really wrong on this and someone chimes in with something really clever and easy.

Best of Luck,
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Old 04-12-2015, 07:00 AM
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I had the same thing happen to me last year. I went to princess auto and purchased a set of pipe nipple extractors.($10) Figured out the one that fits the best and welded it onto the end of a socket extension and ground it off nice and round. Had no problem getting it out. Maybe spray it with PB Blaster or something like that and let it soak.
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Last edited by VW_NUTT; 04-12-2015 at 07:05 AM.. Reason: Added to post
Old 04-12-2015, 07:04 AM
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I've never seen that,
First idea is a easy out, typically square section with sharp corners to get some bite, after carefully stuffing a greasy piece of rag in the hole.
Some PB Blaster beforehand can't hurt.
Lucky if the cylinder is in its exhaust stroke so that later you can blow it out with shop air.
Cause,....
Corrosion maybe, poor plating.
I'd say change the plugs more often and stay away from cheap Bosch, IIRC, NGK use a better steel and or plating on their high end plugs like Iridiums.
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Old 04-12-2015, 07:12 AM
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Hey VW, Was it with Bosch? And prob no antiseize on the threads?
Cheap plugs require anti seize but the Iridiums for instance specify
to not use on the threads due to the material used.
I'd still change them every two to max 4 yrs.
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Old 04-12-2015, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VW_NUTT View Post
I had the same thing happen to me last year. I went to princess auto and purchased a set of pipe nipple extractors.($10) Figured out the one that fits the best and welded it onto the end of a socket extension and ground it off nice and round. Had no problem getting it out. Maybe spray it with PB Blaster or something like that and let it soak.
I've done a similar extraction (on a Willys Jeep motor) with an ez-out, one of the only things I'd ever use one of those cursed things for. If you go the extractor route, I'd do a dry run with whatever tool you're going to use with a dremel'ed off old plug before you try it on your engine. I'd also consider running a borescope in the cylinder to check for pieces of the plug. I bought a cheap chinese one on ebay and it does a pretty good job.
Old 04-12-2015, 07:24 AM
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BLPETRY, I'd be really careful with using cheap EZ out, the last thing you would want is to round off or break off corners.
Get the best, think of the alternative.
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Last edited by ganun; 04-12-2015 at 07:37 AM.. Reason: correction
Old 04-12-2015, 07:34 AM
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Why I always use just a touch of anti-seize, no matter what they say. That thread has really fused itself to the head.
I don't know how far you are from a good Porsche shop you are, but I would have it flat bedded to an expert. Maybe they can take it out, but I think that head is going to have to come off.

Another reason to switch to NGK's
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Old 04-12-2015, 08:47 AM
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This brings up another related question. Changing plugs.... Engine warm, hot or cold... To make the plugs come out easier and not break???

Plugs in old cars need to either have anti seize or every year or so back the plugs out just enough to break the seal then torque them back in. I use a bit of anti seize but at the same time changing your plugs every couple of years keeps them from seizing. Like everyone else said, try every ingenious method possible before dropping the engine. Go to Amazon.com and find the best tool that people swear by for backing out broken studs or plugs and give them a try.
Old 04-12-2015, 09:59 AM
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Even NGK's you need to make certain the contact tip at top is screwed on tight. I found one was lose before putting it in. But since then, all the new ones were tight but I check all the time now.

So, 7 years without changing, that is a bit long no???

I find it easier to remove when engine is warm. I also torque to spec and no anti-seeze.
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Old 04-12-2015, 10:16 AM
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what was the size and shape of the pipe nipple extractor? I see many mecanisms for this tool on the net. Your idea is just what I was looking for. Can you take a picture of the fabricated tool and send it to me trudeaup@videotron.ca ?

Thanks
Old 04-12-2015, 11:59 AM
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I will take my small USB scope up there for sure. I think all the pieces are there, none loose in the engine. I was planning on cutting another plug just the same way this one boke so I could prefit the tool. Thanks for the advice
Old 04-12-2015, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ganun View Post
BLPETRY, I'd be really careful with using cheap EZ out, the last thing you would want is to round off or break off corners.
Get the best, think of the alternative.
Agreed, snap-on or equivalent would be worth the extra $$$ given the consequences of breaking it off. Maybe the pipe extractor would work better than a bolt extractor if it comes in a size that would work. Testing with an old plug should reveal a method that will work.
Old 04-12-2015, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ganun View Post
Hey VW, Was it with Bosch? And prob no antiseize on the threads?
Cheap plugs require anti seize but the Iridiums for instance specify
to not use on the threads due to the material used.
I'd still change them every two to max 4 yrs.
Yes they were Bosch plugs that were in there. That's what I have in there now as well. Well not really in there as the heads are sitting at the front door in a box. Broken head studs Should be back together in about two weeks I hope
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Old 04-12-2015, 07:20 PM
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It's never easy dealing with this... And it's a common problem on recent Ford V8s.

I would take it to an experienced Porsche mechanic. There's not a lot that scares me with our cars but this does.
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Old 04-12-2015, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by sc_rufctr View Post
It's never easy dealing with this... And it's a common problem on recent Ford V8s.

I would take it to an experienced Porsche mechanic. There's not a lot that scares me with our cars but this does.
I have the scars from changing the plugs on my 2006 Expedition: 5 of the 8 plugs broke.

Lisle makes a special tool to remove the broken plugs -- cost me about $60, and 8 hours of work. The first was the hardest -- after that, the learning curve kicked in.
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Old 04-13-2015, 06:20 AM
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^^^ This one?

Could you use this on a 911? I'm thinking the threads would be different.

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Old 04-13-2015, 07:15 AM
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Had that happen a long time ago (not on a Porsche), started with a liberal soak in penetrating oil and then used an easy out purchased at my local FLAPS. At the time I was quite concerned but in the end it came right out once I managed to get setup.
As noted by others, 7 years is too long between changes and I always use a dab of anti-seize on the threads.
Old 04-13-2015, 04:43 PM
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^^^ This one?

Could you use this on a 911? I'm thinking the threads would be different.

Thats the one.

The threads don't matter -- it is like an easy out -- it bites into the metal plug base left in the head. It might work, but I wouldn't buy one on a hunch. I would try an easy out first. But if you know someone that has a Lisle tool, you might give it a try.
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Old 04-13-2015, 05:30 PM
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inside pipe wrench. I've used these.

Old 04-13-2015, 08:51 PM
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