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Carb Cleaner Uses?
Is this stuff safe for distributor parts? I don't want to screw up the magnetic pickup or anything else. Also, it is almost totally disassembled but I'm also unsure of what to use as a lubricant when I put it back together.
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Lillie - 1979 911 SC Targa, The Original 911 SCWDP Car. Currently in open heart surgery. Last edited by OsoMoore; 04-22-2015 at 09:53 AM.. |
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I don't know the answers to your questions, but I do know that Bosch made distributor grease. I use to have a tube of it but lost it sometime ago. Maybe look to see if that would be the appropriate stuff to do use.
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Chris '75 911s Targa |
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I would be leary of using carb cleaner, may be better off with brake/ parts cleaner. What are you trying to clean? Electrical contact cleaner is pretty inert.
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G. Hamilton '82 SC Guards Red-2nd time owned-Now sold "Bumerang" '70 TR6 N of Boston |
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Taking it apart is easy
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There is also a spray cleaner for electrical contacts. I'd use that, unless you want to remove grease or oil.
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Jerome PLEASE CHECK MY QUIZZICAL BLOG: www.ponderingporsches.blogspot.com |
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What he said, but search as there is a thread from early_s_man that states how to clean the dizzy.
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72 911 Although it is done at the moment, it will never be finished. |
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The carb cleaner should be good for metal only.
From the many distributor threads, one thing that stood out was to NOT submerge the housing in cleaner. Also, 3-in-1 oil or engine oil is OK for the felt and beneath it. Lube with eng oil as you assemble - most of this from Early S Man and Gunter. Bosch grease for the cam lobes. Syl-glide or equiv for the seal (squarish o-ring). I just did mine (but a 3.2 with no coil/pick-up)- it took longer to do the research that the job itself.
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Dan '87 Targa Carrera 3.2 - Fabspeed Cat Bypass, M&K Muffler, SW Chip Venetian Blue |
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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I have been buying Wearever brake cleaner at the local Advance Auto store.
You can probably talk them into $2 a can if you buy a case of 12. Pretty good value.
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1981 911SC Targa |
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Carb Cleaner Uses?
I buy it on sale and use it to kill Carpenter Bees - a lot cheaper than bug spray and a further reach than a tennis racket!
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'85 RoW 911 Coupe '65 356 SC '72 BMW 2002Tii '10 Cayenne '20 Ram Longhorn |
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Thanks guys! Sounds like I can use electrical contact cleaner for the electrical parts, and brake cleaner for the metal ones. That and a bunch of toothbrushes...
Then I'll use engine oil for most of it and find some Bosch distributor grease for the cams. Here's the relevant Early_S_Man thread: distributor lube...
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Lillie - 1979 911 SC Targa, The Original 911 SCWDP Car. Currently in open heart surgery. Last edited by OsoMoore; 04-23-2015 at 07:05 AM.. |
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Carb cleaner in the bucket containers (e.g. Berrryman's, Chem-Dip) is not the same as used in spray cans (choke cleaner) or fuel treatments to help clean internal carb parts. I'd soak plastic parts in none of them. For individual hand-cleaning, aerosol spray cleaners should be fine.
I'd also leave 3-in-1 "oil" on the home shelf. It's pretty weak as an automotive lube. Use regular engine oil under the felt. I find that ATF, Marvel Mystery Oil or equiv. and a stiff brush cuts grease and grunge faster than aerosol parts cleaners which evaporates too quickly. To clean parts with caked-on grease/carbon, scrape/clean loose gaskets/dirt/grease/oil, then soak in the carb cleaner bucket. Follow up with hot, soapy water then a final water rinse and dry. Follow suggested handling precautions. Those with access to steam cleaners, high-pressure washers, ultrasonic units, soda and bead blasters have a much easier time of it. Sherwood |
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E-85 sippin drunk
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If you read the title only of the original thread, then my response is a valid one...
)))I use carb cleaner as a great spider killer in the shop
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Brad...930 gt-1 racecar, increased displacement to 3.6L, JB racing Cylinders, JE 8 to1 pistons, stroked crank, Carrillo rods, extrudehoned 3.2L intake, full bay Bell I/C, GT-2 EVO cams, Rarly8 headers, GTX-3584RS turbo, twin plug, P&P heads, Link G4 EFi system, G-50/50 with LTD slip and oil squirters/oil cooler, zork tube, full race coilover system, with carbon fiber body, full cage, E-85 sippin drunk |
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Carb cleaner and Brakleen will kill plastic parts. I use electronic parts cleaner.
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I am with Rusnak. Carb Cleaner DESTROYS plastic parts, but is fine for metal. Also, Carb Cleaner will soften paint, as evidenced by the smudge on my MAC roller toolbox, LOL.
Brakleen will get you higher than a kite if used in enclosed spaces, and I keep thinking that if it smells that bad, it has to be carcinogenic. Stick with electrical cleaner and you'll be fine.
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Christopher Mahalick 1984 911 Targa, 1974 Lotus Europa TCS 2001 BMW 530i(5spd!), Ducati 900 SS/SP 2006 Kawasaki Ninja 250, 2015 Yamaha R3 1965 Suzuki k15 Hillbilly, 1975 Suzuki GT750 |
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Sprayed the crap out of it (literally) in the sink last night. It doesn't quite look like one that has been sand/soda blasted, but she is clean and smooth.
I still need to go after the electrical parts with the other cleaner, but things are looking better. For the first time, the vacuum advance lever actually moves! The shaft spins pretty freely now, and once I get my new bushing pressed in I should be ready to put it all back together.
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Lillie - 1979 911 SC Targa, The Original 911 SCWDP Car. Currently in open heart surgery. Last edited by OsoMoore; 04-24-2015 at 10:30 AM.. |
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OK, looks like it works best as a pest killer.
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JUAN '80SC Targa |
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Bosch distributor grease isn't meant to lube the internal parts of the distributor when doing an overhaul: it's sticky/greasy stuff that's meant to be put on the lobe of the distributor shaft so the rubbing block (if you're using points) doesn't wear down. The stickiness holds it to the lobes of the distributor shaft so it isn't flung off. When I overhauled the 205t distributor on my VW bug, I used assembly lube on the various bearings & spacers. Up here in NW Pa, using something too thick impairs the mechanical operation of the mechanical distributor when you get into winter driving...
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