69E Sportomatic sitting for 40 years --Help me...Please!

[911heaven]

The throttle linkage is seized up solid. Will the mechanical pump perhaps be salvageable without overhaul? I know how expensive thar can be. Working on the gas tank no, only rust inside and no tar. looking for a rebuilt electric fuel pump with core exchangeq, but I don't know where to find one these days. Regarding the mechanical pump, some pepole here in japan have said to soak it in diesel fuel fora month or so.

The rust issue is really just front of the gas tank. Where is the best place to get the pan or sheetmetal parts I need.

The plan is to get the rust issue fixed quickly, and get the car driving. Later I plan to do more intricate and proper restoation. I've already got the collapsible return tubes from pelican parts and gasket for engine oil pick up ring alrea. Engine hand cranks over fine, but oil was oozing from the o rings on engine cas return tubes.

Very grateful for any technical help you all can give

Best,

Bernard

[timmy2]

Try acetone and transmission fluid to free up parts. You will be surprised how ell it works.

[911heaven]

Originally Posted by timmy2

Try acetone and transmission fluid to free up parts. You will be surprised how ell it works.

Thank you Timmy2,

Are we talking about mixing the two? Or do you mean to use them seperately?

I have access to acetone. My Kiwi engineer best friend uses it to mix with used salad oil to run his diesel SUV. But what do you suggest for the mechanical fuel pump to trouble shoot whether it goes or not. I'm still in the early stages of this. Still haven't dismantled anything yet. Just looking for some advice.

Thanks for the help and good advice,

Bernard

[timmy2]

Use them mixed for freeing stuck parts.

As far as the MFI is concerned, I will defer to someone else with knowledge of them.

You may want to contact 356rs as he would have more info for you.
His information is in this thread:
Oregon Coast Porsche Activity??

[Spumato]

If you spend all of your time fixing the rest of the fuel system, it would be sage advice to pull the fuel tank and take to a radiator shop and have them flush and seal it. Any visible rust or gummed fuel is not worth the expense of setback when it transfers into the rest of your fuel system. Hard work and smart money spent now, will pay dividends on down the road.

[911heaven]

Originally Posted by timmy2

Use them mixed for freeing stuck parts.

As far as the MFI is concerned, I will defer to someone else with knowledge of them.

You may want to contact 356rs as he would have more info for you.
His information is in this thread:
Oregon Coast Porsche Activity??

Thank you for the contact Timmy2,

I'm honored to get your advice and I just read how hot property you are on this forum. I'll try to check out the contact you gave me ASAP regarding the MFI pump. Just a last question If I may, Mixing acetone and kerosene, would that be a 1:1 ratio?

All the best,

Bernard

[911heaven]

Originally Posted by Spumato

If you spend all of your time fixing the rest of the fuel system, it would be sage advice to pull the fuel tank and take to a radiator shop and have them flush and seal it. Any visible rust or gummed fuel is not worth the expense of setback when it transfers into the rest of your fuel system. Hard work and smart money spent now, will pay dividends on down the road.

Thank you Spumato!

Yes, good idea, and I'm already working on the tank. I bought a POR 15 kit and some extra product for de oxidation. We are working on the outside of the tank first to remo ve rust and check for pin hole before going for sealing the inside of the tank. Doing it all myself, for ther aren't the equivilant of the radiator shops here in Japan.

Dropped the heat exchangers today and tin snpiped the old oil return tubes out. I was upable to get the collapsible ones back in since the green O rings have such a tight clearance on the tubes.. I used oil, even a little grease, but too hard. Makes me think that I should boil them in a little oil so as to contracy them a bit. Any great ideas?

regards and gratitude,

bernard

[timmy2]

Yes, a 1:1 ratio is what I have used.
Cover/seal the container you use to keep the acetone from evaporating too quickly.

[911heaven]

Originally Posted by timmy2

Yes, a 1:1 ratio is what I have used.
Cover/seal the container you use to keep the acetone from evaporating too quickly.

Thanks again Timmy2 for the help! One day I might consult you again since you are a wiring wizard I`ve read. It won`t be for a while because this 69E is the first and busiest project on my menu. However, I have an 89 which was Rufized back in the day, then some kind of insurance job and so I bought it. Honestly, it went into the drink. I`ve had it since about 1997. It only had about 8K on the clock then, and I salvaged as much of the car as I could. I stripped out the loom. 5 years ago I bought a wrecked 964 and proceeded to put the whole loom into the car. I drilled a few holes in the 89 body for the new harness, did some mods on welding to make the 964 oil tank work and opposite side too with the coil assembly. In essence, it was going to have the 964 harness and whatever I could do to make it work. Of course there were issues with wiring on the A/C unit vs. the former 911 unit and also the ABS system built into the 964 harness. There could also be issues with the security system on the 964 harness and engine computer.

But take this with a grain of salt Timmy2, I mean, this is for another day. First and foremost I need to get the 69E safe and running. I have about a year to do that so I can get the safety inspection from the Japanese DMV. The 89 can wait. She hasn`t gone anywhere in 17 years and I don`t think she will anytime soon. It`s only a gesture to consider that car because I don`t want to forget about it. I`ve let go of too many 911s in the past. This was my dream car and so I always kept it in the garage.

Just to say a big Thank you to you for your wonderful help.

bernard

[911heaven]

I still need to inquire from some of the experienced gentlemen who are willing to help about a few questions. I`m sorry that I was fairly inconcise when I started this thread. I guess I was drinking too much wine.

This time I will try to codify my questions/issues so that they are a little more digestable to the common reader. This particular car had just been sitting for years (40 nearly) and so it isn`t really that bad. It has 42 original thousand kilometers on the clock (maybe less than 30k miles I would guess).

Without dropping the motor yet, or dismantling it, today I was able to get the throttle linkage freed up and working well. I had sprayed CRC on the throttle linkage joints and springs etc. a few months ago (the equvilant japanese version of WD40 and it has some de-corosive qualities). Somehow today it freed up so that is working. Thanks Timmy2 for the advice on the other solution, and I will most likely need to use that method at another stage.

The question today is about, without dropping the motor, I some insights you all might give me on what other places there could be oil leaks once it gets fired up. I`ve changed out the oil return tubes with collapsable 28 dollar ones from Pelican. The former O rings were rock hard and oozing oil from the case. Here are some questions in order if anyone can help:

1. Should I try to replace other O rings before start up, say for example the oil cooler? If the return tube O rings were toast, where are the other places I should go? I can easily do the valve cover gaskets, but where else is there going to be an oil leak?

2.　As I face the engine bay, the right side heat exchanger already dismantled had plenty of rust to shake out of it. I may be barely repairable, but as I look up at the head and the valve area, there appears to be some corrosion up in the exhaust valve area on that right side. Will I get away with not dropping the motor and doing a head job?

Later I intend to do a proper job with the motor overhaul, but I would like you all to know, the goal here is just to get it running right so I can get the DMV equivilent of a saftey inspection, which includes emissions here.

3. My main issue with this DMV equivilent of the saftey inspection was/is the rust problem in the front pan, front of the gas tank. It needs to be replaced. I wish I knew how to upload the photos, and I will learn in time, but this is one of the urgent issues. Perhaps I should start a thread on the Pelican forum for body panels, but I thought I would ask. So far I only got advice from my friend Chuck in OC CA. He said Stoddard. I checked that site and found the panel for about 234 dollars. Mine was so rusted up that when we winched the car up onto the truck on buying day, it pulled the hook clean off the pan! One can see that someone was in there decades ago and did some rivot work with this pan, but they didn`t do a proper job, and so it just kept rusting. Otherwise, the car is pretty clean. My question is only about where to get the right pan for the job if anyone has experince with this.

I appreciate all your help and insights. Thank you!

Bernard