Throttle body to airbox o-ring comes to mind. Cold start injector o-ring/gasket. Basically anything rubber that seals on the vacuum side of the airbox. Intake runner sleeves and o-rings. And of course the intake gaskets.

Engine wiring harness! :)
(I only hope I can forget seeing that spiral wrap)

good job!

check the bushings on the throttle bellcrank. There is a cheap and easy replacement from Weltmaster that Pelican sells. most of the time those are worn or destroyed. it will greatly improve throttle response

replace the intake runner gaskets - not the rubber ones, but the metal ones

check for oil leaks around the triangle of death - now is the perfect time to fix them. crankcase breather vent gasket, oil light switch and the thermostat. if you replace the oil light switch put a bead of JB weld around the red plastic base where it meets the metal crimp

also a good time to replace the sound pad if you need to

golden opportunity to get a new wiring harness from timmy2 if you need one

now that you have the airbox out do a "full Tony" on it.

oh, don't forget the fuel injector o-rings and sleeves

My airbox appears to be bonded shut somehow - I took out the screws but it does not separate. I don't see any cracks, but I can't really clean the inside very well. Ideas?

That is a good thing. They are bonded shut at the factory and if it is still bonded then it probably isn't split. :)
Put the screws back in with a little J.B. Weld.

The "full Tony" test on the airbox is to see if it leaks by plugging/sealing all the holes to the vacuum area of the box except the brake vacuum one and then submerging it with low air supplied to the vacuum fitting and look for air leaks

Looking at part lists here. Are there two o-rings for each injector? One for the sleeve and one for the injector itself?

Here's my current parts order:
6 fuel injector sleeve Pelican Parts - Product Information: 911-110-886-03-M260.
6 fuel injector o'ring Pelican Parts - Product Information: 999-701-446-40-M17
6 fuel injector sleeve o'ring Pelican Parts - Product Information: 999-701-423-40-M213
6 intake manifold gasket Pelican Parts - Product Information: 930-110-197-12-M17
6 rubber intake sleeve Pelican Parts - Product Information: 928-110-158-01-M260.
1 sensor plate housing to airbox gasket Pelican Parts - Product Information: 911-110-394-02-M30
1 throttle body base o'ring Pelican Parts - Product Information: 999-701-124-40-M17
2 rubber mount for airbox Pelican Parts - Product Information: 911-110-154-00-M260.
1 oil pressure switch Pelican Parts - Product Information: 911-606-230-00-M85
1 engine thermostat o'ring Pelican Parts - Product Information: 999-707-314-40-M17
1 breather cover gasket Pelican Parts - Product Information: 930-107-791-02-M17

I couldn't locate the throttle bellcrank bushings part in the catalog.

My wiring harness seems fine from what I can see.
Is the oil light switch different than the oil thermostat?
I was unable to determine if I was getting rubber or metal intake runner gaskets with that part number.
I looked at engine sound pads, and mine seems in pretty good shape. Is this perhaps a generic material that I can get and cut myself?
One of the air lines is "hard" but has rubber hose ends. The ends are starting to deteriorate. I couldn't find the entire unit in the catalog, and I suspect it is very expensive. Is it possible to replace the rubber ends and now the main metal part? It will probably be fine if I am careful with my hose clamps, but I'd like to do something better.
Also, should I use gasket sealer gunk when reassembling?

EDIT: List of hardware
13 mm (M8) nuts and nylon lock nuts.
M8 washers
2" x 0.35" hose clamps for intake runners
1.15" hose clamps
1.33" hose clamps
Washers for M5 bolts (on air box)

More vacuum hose.

yes, there are 2 o-rings for each injector. To get the old sleeve out you need to Dremel off the dimples that hold the injector sleeve in place. Then use a long bolt as a drift to tap out the old sleeve. Use a dab of oil or silicone lube to slip the outer o-ring on the new sleeve and then tap it into place. I think I used a 14mm socket as a drift to drive it in place. You'll need to use a small punch or a cold chisel to recreate the dimples that hold the sleeve in place.

The oil pressure switch is the same thing as the oil light switch -- "dummy light".

Here is the part number for the throttle bell crank bushings. You need 2.
Part #: PEL-PP910242

The intake manifold gaskets is what I was referring to so you got the right ones. I was saying it's not the rubber boots that connect to the throttle body.

I personally love the "ultimate sound pad" made by AppBiz and sold by Pelican. If yours is fine I wouldn't worry about it. When the factory one starts to get old and brittle it starts to break apart and you get black powdery crap all over the place. It's a real mess.

I used silicone vac lines. I think I got them from Amazon. Local parts places didn't carry the right sizes -- I got them in red, blue and black to match the factory color coding.

Can you post a picture of the "hard" air lines you're talking about?

Thanks Tirwin. I'll probably pop those out before I start cleaning the runners later today.
Here is the line I'm referring to:
https://goo.gl/photos/dUE1VikE1z1rL9Ng7
https://goo.gl/photos/WNMmW1gwkqnMZn6n7

For the accelerator bushings I used these Bronze ones.
901-423-253-00-M105

For the Bellcrank bushing on the transmission I used these Bronze ones.
914-423-211-00-M105

Both are a little less $ than the factory or other suppliers. :)

Page link:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search_2014.cgi?command=show_part_page&please_ wait=N&make=POR&model=911M&section=PCABLE&page=1&b ookmark=2&part_number=901-423-253-00-M105

Just thinking out loud but somebody on here (Len? aka BoxsterGT) might know a place to source the fittings and you could get them re-crimped. I've heard several people suggest that you can sometimes find a local hydraulic shop to do it.

With silicone vacuum tubes, if they fit tightly on, should I still use hose clamps (for the larger diameter ones)?

EDIT: Other questions.
Some small gas lines (mostly those feeding the fuel distributor) have sleeves over their actual gas carrier part. The sleeves are cracking and/or missing in parts. Can I replace these with a spiral sleeve, or maybe really large shrink wrap tubing? Ignore?

The intake runners have had their mating surfaced cleaned by my amazing wife. I am very lucky. The innards, particularly on a couple, are very dirty. Can I leave these overnight to soak, perhaps in Simple Green or the like?

I think I found a major source of my problem. Lots of air can get through this crack. Maybe that is where my noise was coming from. I'm thinking I can fix it with JB Weld. I might also reinforce some of the other areas where it has been rubbing.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1434925213.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1434925226.jpg

BOOM!!! There's the culprit!

Glad you found it.

Aluminum pipe IIRC. Maybe have it repaired by a shop. Or copied and replaced!
Good find though, and with all the other parts you are going to replace you will be in really good shape. :)

Maybe this is heresy but... is there something special about this pipe being hard and aluminium? Can't you just use something like a large semi-rigid hose of the proper diameter with some fittings to T-junction it? Or is the vacuum so intense you need aluminum.

You could engineer your own hose assembly, but it will be bulkier and kind of ugly. I would indeed fix with JB Weld. You could then wrap with aluminum foil duct tape or silicone self sealing tape. You could also glue JB a short piece of aluminum collar over the JB weld repair. Hold it in place with hose clamps until it cures.
Anyway, you will figure out something. Glad you found it.
Good luck,
Dave

I used 1/2" EMT to replace mine for my Bitz EFI installation.

Once you're done with this stuff you will no longer have false air issues so your idle mixture is going to be way off. Remember to set the idle, mixture and timing again when you're done. You'll be amazed at the difference.

I'm looking forward to it! Is it OK to leave the intake runners in some water + simple green overnight to help clean out the inside? My wife cleaned the contact points on them really well yesterday, but I'd like to clean inside and out.

I don't see why not. If you can find a long flexible brush like a pipe cleaner that might help.