Paint experts, need some input

Chuck Moreland · 11-08-2002, 03:54 PM

I'm getting ready to purchase paint for the project Elephant.

I'm 90% sure to go with gulf livery. Here is my poor photoshop attempt at what it will look like.

Sans ST fenders.

Anyway, I have had some trouble finding the gulf blue paint, code L328.

Dupont makes it in Chroma Base clearcoat and Chroma 1 single stage.

Are these good paints that will last? Is there a better option?

I feel more comfortable with single stage since I've done it before. But I'm being told clearcoat lasts longer.

dean · 11-08-2002, 04:06 PM

Yes that is good paint. I also like Dupont Imron, but it has very limited colors. You could look for Sikkins or Glasurite, sorry about spelling. I heard that the last two paints are very durable and will stand up to brake fluid.

JSDSKI · 04:35 PM

Glasurit (sp?) is the factory source for paint. There is a "Early Glasurit" thread on the early911s registry that will tell you more than you ever wanted to know about early pcar paint.....what's up with the bushings????

ps: like the paint scheme - another cool one for that type is GP White with "copper" Carrera decal and Fuchs inserts"

makaio · 11-08-2002, 05:14 PM

Chuck, I thought you were going to paint it white. But the Gulf livery is even cooler

.

RoninLB · 11-08-2002, 05:54 PM

there is a difference between acrylic urethane and poly urethane..poly has a longer molecular chain..and is a great mean machine track paint..also poly is good enough for airplanes and race boats..might even find some garbage trucks and industrial equipment painted Imron..I believe Imron color can be formulated at the supplier.. I love Imron...I also use DX40 primer.......Ron

Jim T · 11-08-2002, 06:44 PM

I recently did some spoilers with Dupont Chroma 1 one stage.

Was easy to work with and seems to be very durable. I was happy with it. As I recall, it wasn't particularly inexpensive- not like the Dupont Centauri I used a few years back.

I was happy with it, and would use it again.

Although you can never go wrong with Sikkens or Glasurit - good German paints.

2.7911E · 11-08-2002, 06:54 PM

All the paints you mentioned are good. Imron is the toughest, I think and an industrial coating, good for frames. It may be hard to color-sand, if you are looking to make a perfect job. Don't be afraid of base/clear paints. They make metallics easier to spray but aren't needed in your case. Single stage would be cheaper and you can put clear on top for more depth, if you want. I think the secret is to find a knowledgable supplier who can and will guide you. If you are going to use DP40, an epoxy primer, you may want to stay with the whole PPG line as most recommend sticking with one brand from primer to top-coat. Michael

Chuck Moreland · 11-09-2002, 08:19 AM

I think I'll go with the Chroma 1, single stage. I think it will be easier to work with if I get any drips. Plus I think it will be easier when I need to touch up in the future.

And it's cheaper. I'm surprised at the price, the blue paint and primer is going to run me around $650. 2 stage would be about $850. Add another $200-$300 for orange, and my home paint job is looking like $1000 with supplies!

JDSKI, the bushings are a go. Production control arm versions ship in about 2 weeks, I've accepted a number of pre-orders already.

I'll post details as I get closer to ship date. Right now I'm only sharing details offline, contact me if you are interested. I took samples up to the RGruppe meeting at EASY last weekend so a handfull of people have had a chance to see them.

Jim T · 11-09-2002, 09:01 AM

Based on my experience, I think you'll be happy with the C-1. Its a thoroughly modern, "latest" paint.

You have the same reaction as I did - its not cheap! Makes one wonder what you get for these $1000 paint jobs - like you say, quality materials alone can be close to that.

Chuck Moreland · 11-09-2002, 09:26 AM

I had a cheap repaint done on my '77 some years ago. You get what you pay for material wise.

It looked good when I drove it home, within 3 years the finish was hurting. oxidized, no shine.

wcroty · 11-09-2002, 08:56 PM

If you go with a single stage, put one coat of clear on as well. This will give you the ability to color sand and buff. You do not want to sand and buff single stage, as soon as you sand and color comes off you have compromised the UV protection of a single stage.
My choice is SIKKENS Autocryl single stage and Autoclear III I would also add a flex additive. This will improve chip resistance and improve flow.

Good Luck, Bryan