Do I need to rebuild my brake calipers???

wolfturbo · wolfturbo's Garage

I have noticed that it feels as if my calipers/brake pads are grabbing at least one of my brake rotors. On slight inclines my car just doesn't seem to roll real easily. I also noticed that when I took my car into Andial recently for an MFI adjustment, they indicated that "brakes are hanging up and not releasing right away"

So I jacked the car up tonight and it felt like the rear wheels were not rotating completely free of the calipers/brake pads. Am I right to assume that it might be time for caliper rebuild kits? Is it possibly something else that I haven't considered?

Lastly, if I rebuild the calipers, what else should I do at the same time besides rotors, pads and flushing the brake fluid?

Any Orange County wrenches out there who might want to check over my shoulder as I complete this DIY project??? I feel as though I can do it myself, but given that I'm talking about the brakes, I'd like to have somebody watch me put it all back together to make sure that I don't screw it up. I pay in beer and fine wine! Best regards to all!

Superman · 11-10-2002, 08:29 PM

Rebuilding calipers on a '73 RS might just be worth the 2000 mile round trip. Or for a chance to ride in a '97 TT. You have very good taste in cars!

The problem with your brakes not releasing might be caused by old brake hoses swelling on the inside. A proper caliper rebuild would include new hoses. Compressed air is nice for removing caliper pistons, but the job can be done using the brake pedal to do the same job. Someone who's done it before would speed things up quite a bit, probably. alas, I probably won't be there. Not a hard job. You MUST use flare nut wrenches on the brake lines.

wckrause · wckrause's Garage

Is your e-brake adjusted correctly? Make sure it's not what's causing the trouble.

Bill Verburg · Bill Verburg's Garage

As Bill K. pointed ot it could be as simple as an e-brake adjustment. Do you know the history of the brake fluid, It should be flushed bi-annually at a minimum and the pistons exercised at that time. If this hasn't been done regularly over the years there is a very good chance that you will need to start at the m/c and work out to all 4 corners. The m/c should never be bled manually(use a pressure bleeder) as the chances are good that the seals will be damaged, the rubber lines should all be suspect also if they haven't been changed in 30 yrs. It's not hard but having experienced help is a huge +.

dean · 11-11-2002, 05:03 AM

Hey Bill,

About the manual bleeding ruining the seals. I have bleed manually for a bunch of years and I never had a problem ruining the seals. I am not saying that it can't happen though. If it was to happen I would think it is about time to replace the master anyway. I have used a pressure bleeder and currently use a vacume bleeder. The advantage to pressure and vacume is that you can do it alone. Although I have had some clutch masters that could only be bleed manually.

Bill Verburg · Bill Verburg's Garage

As long as manual bleeding method has been used from new and regularly there won't usually be an issue. What happens is regular maintainance has been neglected, damage to the bores has occured beyond the normal operating range of the pistons, manual bleeding forces the pistons into this damaged area causing damage to the seals which will now leak.

I've seen it a hundred times. If you keep after them from new there won't be a problem. Few people do it though.

I also like the vacuum bleeders, though not as much as a pressure bleeder. I stopped manual bleeding decades ago.

I've been fortunate enough to not have to deal with hyd. clutches.

Chuck Moreland · 11-11-2002, 07:36 AM

Tip for pedal bleeding - don't push the pedal to the floor!

Just give it a half stroke so it travels same as a heavy brake application. Takes a couple extra pumps, big deal.

Kurt B · 11-11-2002, 07:44 AM

Before you rebuild them, price them. Calipers are cheap. A few hundred dollars each. You take off the old and put the new ones on, and bleed em and you're done.

Brake rebuilt kits only make sense on cars with NLA calipers: some 930s and 914s, and things like that. On your car, I see no reason to risk rebuilding them or to spend the time to rebuild them when you can buy new ones cheap.

pbs911 · pbs911's Garage

Kurt I think the calipers are off the 73 RS. New calipers would be a little pricey, if you could find them.

If you do decide to rebuild the calipers, also include a set of new brake lines. Aside from that it sounds like you have everything covered.

Where in OC are you? If I'm free, I would be happy to stop by and lend a hand. I just rebuilt mind a couple months ago and it is a simple DIY job.

Superman · 11-11-2002, 08:21 AM

I'd agree with Kurt's remarks as they apply to master cylinders. They are often not expensive to just replace. Calipers, I rebuild. Paul, I hope you can stop by Rob's place....experience shortens this job considerably. And it's a '73 RS. For safety reasons, it would probably be necessary to take it out for a spin afterwards.

Kurt B · 11-11-2002, 08:35 AM

1973 Carrera RS

Whoops, I didn't realize it was a real one!

Superman · 11-11-2002, 08:55 AM

Okay, I'll quit drawing attention to Rob's excellent taste in cars, right after I say this: The '73 RS and the '97 TT are two of the smartest purchases of Porsches that could have been made over the years. The '73 RS sells for $100K now, and sold new for $??????? The '97 TT went up in price for the first couple of years after it was introduced. They are probably worth that still, and I would not be surprized to see them increase more. They are, after all, the last of the true air cooled Porsches. And 450 hp. If I were in California, I'd be drinking Robs beer right now.

emcon5 · emcon5's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by Kurt B
Before you rebuild them, price them. Calipers are cheap. A few hundred dollars each.

Kurt, no offence intended, but what are you smoking?

A few hundred dollars each, compared with $12 to $27 each, depending on the type of caliper.

Tom