Would you consider starting a new thread for this debate?

Another question: where is the best place to take power for the new condenser fan? Ideally it would be in the engine compartment. I have a relay and fuse, and will activate the relay from the compressor clutch lead...

I took mine from the hot side of the rear window heater fuse.

The BEST way to power a condenser cooling fan is via a relay energized by the third element of a trinary pressure switch. An alternative is to use a thermostatic switch mounted closely to the rear lid condenser inflow tube and well insulated.

For some models Porsche used a thermostatic switch stud mounted to the R/D to control condenser cooling fans.

The need for condenser cooling extends for a goodly period of time beyond compressor clutch cutoff.

Nostalgic AC - Male Trinary Safety Switch For Electric Fans - AC Pressure Switch - Oil & Switches

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/8204131-post159.html

It looks from the pic the pigtail is indeed tucked into the lower left cavity, am I seeing it right?

Nathan, the coiled section of the pigtail gets clamped to the red-capped pipe using a small hose clamp that might have been included with the installation hardware (like shown in the above pictures - exactly the same spot as OEM, but OEM uses a clip instead of a hose clamp - BUTT it appears that the person who took that picture used the clip from the OEM evaporator).

The best place to take power for the condenser fan relay is from the positive lug on the starter solenoid (the one that the alternator wire attaches too) - plenty of space for a ring terminal, and there you are not adding additional load to another "small" circuit.

Ohhhh, now I see it. my oem unit has little tubes that plug into the side of coil.

Good suggestion on the power. I like that idea. Did you use 12 or 14 gauge wire?

What did use as a signal to run condenser fan? What if power to the Evap blower motor turns on the condenser fan? Thru a relay, of course.

I used 14 gauge wire - plenty stout enough for the low amp draw of the fan motor. And I spliced into the compressor clutch wire to trigger the condenser fan relay. I guess the only "problem" with the evaporator blower triggering the relay is the need to run a bazillion feet of wire back to your rear fender. :)

Walk the talk Willy, you design it, lol.

Looks as if someone already beat me, us, to it....

Evaporator Blower Motor Upgrade, 911 86-89

Speed control built into the motor, no need for inefficient, poorly designed PWM motor control that relies on cooling airflow into the A/C plenum.

He who laughs last.....

Willy,
I'm surprised at you. Isn't that out of your budget?

So, are you going to buy one and run the tests for us?
MTBF of a PM vs. multi-wind?
CFM comparison?
Time to install?
Cost Benefits?

Not only that, but Will has said repeatedly that having chilled air blowing on him is "discomforting" (and thus, should be discomforting for other people as well), so it seems strange that he would be concerned at all with improved evaporator blower performance; a hand-operated fan should suit him just fine, one would think.

Note to Charlie....

WWEST is not selling anything, you are. So it be up to you to test for comparison point to point.

Else you need to concede that vendor has a superior, more well thought out, designed product.

Willy,
We tested their unit years ago, the Kuehl Hurricane out performed it.


Actually Willy, its not called back dating, its called "if you want to use it you can'

But Will, why are you so concerned about what others are doing here, we all know you have no reason to be in the game.
Seriously, you are like a teen age girl that has a broken heart.
Just sit on the bench like a good boy and mind your manners.

How does one contact The Moderator of this board? I'd like to report a hijacked thread...

Time to get back on point with a progress report.

I got a lot done today. I got the Evap box reassembled and ready to reinstall.



Actually placed it in the smugglers box and was ready to start connecting things when I noticed the flexible duct that connected the blower outlet to the distribution ducting was disintergrating in my hand. Stop, back up, find new duct. Luckily after a few calls was able to find some at a local O'Reilly.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1436140194.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1436140222.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1436140269.jpg
Sorry for the blurry pic.

Also, was able to install the wiring for the condenser fan. That was fun. Took Ronnies advice and ran power from the starter hot terminal, thru an inline fuse, to a relay that I positioned under the heater control area plastic cover. Took signal from the compressor clutch. I should have taken some pics of all this but it was a long day and I was ready to be done. I liked the way all this came together. Does anyone want to pics of this stuff?

Looking ahead, I have two weekends before our summer vacation. I think I can get it all put together by then! I just need to fab and install the hose from Evap to compressor, reinstall the Evap box, install service port adaptor and wire in binary switch and reinstall the compressor. Then it's time to charge her up!

Nathan, before you put things back in the smugglers box you want to do a test run of the blower motor while connected up to the car harness. While it's unlikely the polarity will be reversed things do go awry, best to find out now.

A squirrel cage blower wheel will move a volume of air turning in the wrong direction just not nearly as much.

You don't want to discover that post install/charging.

Good point.

I had that misfortune when replacing the heater blower fan (engine compartment) a few years ago. It was exactly as you described -- working, but not really. Had me scratching my head for a bit. RDM was the one who helped me figure it out (Thanks Again Dru!)

I have a setup for bench testing -- super easy to do. Great suggestion.