Flywheel Seal Problem Rear Main Seal

[impactbumper]

Since I picked up my car, I have been curing oil leaks. All usual suspects have been addressed. However, I am having difficulties with the flywheel seal (rear main seal).

At my first install, I have used brown Victor, and it immediately did not work. After the initial start it started leaking. A little annoyed, read some posts, ordered Porsche seal (all black), reinstalled, and it is leaking again. Not as much as the first time but still...

During first install I replaced the clutch, FW seemed in good shape.

Mind you, I am pretty technically versed. Any suggestions?

Also found someone previously pinched on the the oil lines under the rocker panels and it is almost completely blocked. Need to address that also.

TIA

[yelcab1]

Seems unusual. Take a picture of the seal area and post it. How deep did you install the seal? Did you clean the crank shaft surface with scotch brite, emory paper? Did you install the seal with a tool, by hand?

[impactbumper]

not using the tool, hammer method. I just placed an order for the p234 tool from the host.

[tirwin]

FWIW, I've read about problems with certain seals. Don't remember where I read or learned this but I got my seal from Patrick Motorsports. About 500 miles on it and so far, so good.

[gregwils]

It's been a while sine I replaced mine , but a vaguely remember placing a light coat of Curil T around the perimeter.

[tobluforu]

I used Curil-t as well, some swear by it, some don't. Get some emery paper or very fine sand paper and spend a good amount of time sanding the edge and the innards of where the rms will seat. I bet you have a burr that is ripping the rpms when you install.
You don't need a fancy tool. Here's a tip.. Get everything ready to go, use Curil-t, or not.. Take rms and place it in freezer over night, or for a few hours. Take it out, run to garage, slide it right in. Make sure you seat it just a tad farther in or out then where the org one was placed.

[mreid]

Berk, Curil T is your friend and will fix it assuming the leak is at the case flange and not the crank.

[1990C4S]

Curil T on the OD, and set the seal slightly deeper (or less deep) than last time in case there is a tiny bit of wear on the shaft. This will set the lip seal onto a virgin surface. And a bit of grease on the shaft prior to install.

The only other scenario is 'non-concentric' bores, but I have only ever seen that on a 2.7. Use a dowel and a shim to check the gap between the OD and the shaft every 45 degrees.

[kodioneill]

When you use the tool you will no longer have a problem.