G50 makes a lot of sense

Kurt B · 11-12-2002, 07:17 AM

Last night I replaced the clutch arm in the pedal cluster. Not-so-amazingly, I did this in less than 2 hours including welding the accelerator arm to its rod, adjusting clutch cable all the way around etc. Why? Because I've had my pedal cluster out at least 5 times. I could probably remove the thing blindfolded.
The result. You can see what the old pin hole looked like here. This caused the clutch to stick during release an be generaly unpredictable.

I also replaced the horseshoe spring, pedal cluster spring, all bushings and bla bla bla within the last few months yet my clutch, which is only 6 months old, is still hard.

The only thing left is the cable. But I have changed the cable a few times while combatting this, so it's not that old. Although the rubber boot near the tranny is peeled and there certainly could be dirt and other goodies wedged in the housing.

My clutch is smooth, but it's still hard. I don't see how my mother could even drive this effing thing. She'd be b!tching and moaning.
My left leg looks like Arnold Schartzeneggar's (sp).

Is this just the nature of the thing?

Kurt B · 11-12-2002, 07:17 AM

The old clutch arm...

thabaer · thabaer's Garage

Kurt, you took the words right out of my friends mouth: The Ahhnold Clutch.

He said this when my horseshoe had broken. Is the pedal pushing hard at your foot when you release the clutch? If it is, that indicates the the load is still coming from all the way in back and you should check the adjustment and centering on the assist spring. I think I've also heard tales about the throwout bearing fork getting out of position.

If it's dragging and feels light then given what you've already checked, I would guess somewhere in the cable path there may be excess friction.

Hope you find the problem, I blew out the hole in my pedal arm before I realized it was working too heavy.

Rick Lee · Rick Lee's Garage

Well, for now it appears you have been spared an engine drop. I don't think a worn clutch disc would give you the symptoms you're having. If you can troubleshoot and fix all this other stuff you've done, you can certainly DIY a clutch R&R. But it's not clear to me you need that.

KTL · 11-12-2002, 08:25 AM

A worn guide tube or lack of lubrication on the guide tube & release bearing could give you the leg press symptoms you're experiencing.

Jdub · 11-12-2002, 08:41 AM

Not much help here I'm afraid, but I do know that if your clutch feels better when it is raining out it is due to the helper spring not being fully lubricated.

Just FYI and sorry not to be of more help here. The little lip that develops on that clutch arm "ear" is one of my pet peeves.

John

Kurt B · 11-12-2002, 09:07 AM

Wish I could describe how it's hard. I don't know..it doesn't "jump" like it did before with the new shaft. I would call it more of a general sluggishness. It's not a sharp thump--it wants to be, I can tell, but it's like it's been encased in glue or something and been made sluggish?

Maybe it IS time for the clutch cable too. The clutch cable hasn't had normal wear and tear. It's been abused by a lot of tension with other problems. I will at least take it off, degrease it, check for fraying, relube it, and put it back. If nothing else, I can put it to rest. Thanks guys.

Jim T · 11-12-2002, 09:11 AM

Kurt, I think something is still wrong.

The clutch in an SC or Carrera, if everything is correct and in good shape, should actually be surprisingly light. While not completely effortless like a Honda, it should be light enough so that just about nobody, man or woman, would complain about it.

The cable can make a difference.

nostatic · nostatic's Garage

mine doesn't strike me as being too stiff. It definitely isn't uniform in its travel...stiffer mid throw. You can check mine out sometime for a data point.

Amac · Amac's Garage

Kurt,
Had the same problem!!
Mine turned out to be the guide tube, worn and no lub.
Most of the time this caused by a worn clutch, but if you drop
the motor to check the guide tube check the clutch also.
This is how I check the clutch cable:
disconnect the clutch pedal spring.
disconnect the cable at the trans.
If the cable slides back and forth easy,
it's not the cable.
I'm running a centerforce race clutch that's pretty stiff,
thinking about doing the bushings in the pedal cluster.
When you did yours did the bushing look worn?

Kurt B · 11-12-2002, 09:53 AM

I'm running a centerforce race clutch that's pretty stiff,
thinking about doing the bushings in the pedal cluster.
When you did yours did the bushing look worn? [/QUOTE]

My bushings weren't too bad. I just got the divet you see, and that was fouling everything up. The clutch force just bend the bronze bushing into the contour of the divet, causing binding.

At this point, certainly, the clutch cable will be examined.

It really the only thing it could be at this point.

Don't ask me how many times I have erroneously said that, but maybe the physics gods will have mercy on me this time.

Jdub · 11-12-2002, 09:56 AM

Amac:

It was not clear that my bushes were worn when I replaced them other than the fact that the pedal was hard as a rock. The white poly type bushings were tossed in favor of the brass bushings.

I miss the way my clutch pedal felt just after replacing the bushes, the cable, the helper spring, and setting the specs correctly. You could use a pinky to push the clutch pedal down: it was that easy! Now, it is a bit more heavy but I attribute that to a probably now worn bushing at the trunnion end of the clutch cable. The beat goes on...

John

Amac · Amac's Garage

Kurt,
Had the same problem!!
Mine turned out to be the guide tube, worn and no lub.
Most of the time this caused by a worn clutch, but if you drop
the motor to check the guide tube check the clutch also.
This is how I check the clutch cable:
disconnect the clutch pedal spring.
disconnect the cable at the trans.
If the cable slides back and forth easy,
it's not the cable.
I'm running a centerforce race clutch that's pretty stiff,
thinking about doing the bushings in the pedal cluster.
When you did yours did the bushing look worn?

pbs911 · pbs911's Garage

Quote:

I will at least take it off, degrease it, check for fraying, relube it, and put it back.

Kurt, you may just what to bite the bullet and replace with a new cable. At least on mine, there was no visible damage but a new cable really improved the feel of the pedal. Cheap insurance. Just save the old one for a spare in an emergency.

If everything is in good mechanical condition the clutch will be very light. When clutches start to go the pedal stiffes up. In So Cal, with all the stop and go traffic, we have to pay a price in clutch wear and tear.

Early_S_Man · 11-12-2002, 02:34 PM

Kurt,

When you last changed your clutch cable ... did you lube its' entire length with moly grease? If not ... I think you have your culprit!

Kurt B · 11-12-2002, 02:58 PM

Nope, didn't lube it!

86Carrera · 11-12-2002, 06:10 PM

I had the clutch replaced and transmission rebuilt right after I bought my car 2 years ago. Night and day difference, clutch action was surprisingly light after everything was replaced / adjusted.

Drove a '96 993 recently with G50 trans and new clutch and clutch effort was higher than my car. Haven't driven a 3.2L G50 but if like this 993 the hydraulic clutch is actually heavier.

Pete
86 Coupe