Valve / Engine Sound. What do you think?

[pjd131]

Here is a video of my engine. Still kind of second guessing the noise after my first valve adjustment. Engine feels good and is pulling fine but would like some opinions. How does this sound to you. Post your engine sound if you can for reference. Thanks.

https://youtu.be/4nucMZ_4uMM

[LakeCleElum]

Don't feel badly, but a totally Farked up adjust job.....You didn't have the crank in the correct position and adjusted clearance to valve(s) that were partially open. I wouldn't run it much till it redone

OR, If you turned the engine over backwards, it could be Cam Chain Tensioner Issues?......Been there myself over the years.

[cabmandone]

Sounds like REALLY loose valves to me. I'm fussing over my 4-5-6 valve noise that isn't near that loud. You don't have to completely drain your oil to do the valves. Just raise one side of the car and adjust that side, then raise the other and do it. As long as you pay attention to rotations you'll be fine. I just did this in my car a week ago and I used the backside method for adjusting.

I'm assuming this noise came on after the valve adjustment right?

If I get the chance, I'll do a quick clip of my engine running and post the link for you.

I'm uploading mine now but after listening to mine and and then yours it doesn't sound all that much different I guess. I'll post a link as soon as it's uploaded.

[pjd131]

I had the engine out over the winter to do my clutch and I adjusted the valves at that time. I have put about 700 miles on the car since. I would really like to hear your engine so thanks for uploading that.

[cabmandone]

When I get over to the right side, you'll hear a noticeable valve tick. I think my mic is a little too sensitive and I'm picking up some exhaust sound but hopefully it gives you some idea.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E837UG5M2-o

The more I listen to yours versus mine it does sound like there is an audible ticking sound that is not there or not quite as loud.

I'd go to a parts store and get one of those stethoscopes and have a listen on your valve covers and chain cases. That or you can drop the valve covers and recheck the valves. Again you can do it without draining if you want.

[Bob Kontak]

No valve noise from what I can here.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by cabmando

That or you can drop the valve covers and recheck the valves.

This.

LakeCleElum is not very kind. I would never say farked. I would say choaded the living shiet out of the adjustment. Much more empathetic and gentle.

pjd - do it again. (we all have choaded plenty). Take the time to spin the engine twice manually and recheck after EACH individual valve adjustment. Tedious as hell.

The guys that say 45 minutes are full of crapola or are really experienced. 4 hours for noobs like us.

[Bob Kontak]

You going to respond, Slick? You have been online all night.

[pjd131]

Thanks for the post. I'll be taking another shot at adjusting the valves. This isn't the first mistake I've made in my 50 years so there is no part of me that is offended by any of the comments above. I appreciate the feedback and the other videos.

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by pjd131

Thanks for the post. I'll be taking another shot at adjusting the valves. This isn't the first mistake I've made in my 50 years so there is no part of me that is offended by any of the comments above. I appreciate the feedback and the other videos.

Just take your time. You might consider looking up the backside method if you haven't already. To me it's a bit easier and no special tools. Just two feeler gauges .025 and .030 IIRC set the valve with .025 clearance as the "go" and the .030 should not slide in (no go) I doubt you're that far off. Check to make sure you can wiggle the rocker on the cylinder you're working on before you adjust to make sure you're on the right cylinder. If you follow the Bentley it's really easy. The other thing, if you do the backside method, I'd set, then rock it a little then recheck. And when you're done, go back over all of them before you close it up. Take your time, you'll get it.

[Flat6pac]

To put you in the ball park, something for you to think about before you redo the job.
The thread pitch is 1mm on the adjusters.
Bruce

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by LakeCleElum

If I am "Slick", no I've not been on all night

Nope - Was pokin' pjd.

pjd, where you living ats? (Midwest slang).

[LakeCleElum]

PJ - I had mine loose once, but not this loose. I had made the mistake of think if the intake valve was all the way open, the exhaust had to be all the way closed. Due to the overlap in the cams, this is not true.

Best to use the marks on the crank. It also helps to pull the plugs. I then can put a length of plastic tubing down the plug hole, push the car forward in a higher gear (3 or 4th) and feel when the pistion is at TDC. We're here to help; like I say, been there. Best of luck.

[Targalid]

The feeler gauges used for backside valve adjustment are three thousandths and twenty five ten thousandths, i.e., .003 inch is the no go feeler gauge and .0025 inch, two and a half thousandths, is the go gauge. I like this method because I can see the cam lobes pointing away from the adjusters and there is no doubt when I am on the flat of the cam. I get confused counting degrees of rotation. Maybe you did too?

[911SauCy]

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak

No valve noise from what I can here.

My car has never run this quiet, even right after an adjustment...

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by 911SauCy

My car has never run this quiet, even right after an adjustment...

You know, that was after 20 mins of idling only, from stone cold in 80F. I wonder if that vid is a fair assessment of the real state? OK, quiet at idle, but beat on it a bit and I bet it's more noisy.

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak

You know, that was after 20 mins of idling only, from stone cold in 80F. I wonder if that vid is a fair assessment of the read state? OK, quiet at idle, but beat on it a bit and I bet it's more noisy.

For the record, mine was taken after a 15 minute drive into town and back. I thought a cold recording wouldn't be a good indicator since the oil would be thicker when cold.

[pjd131]

Thanks for the ideas. Booked off work and did the adjustment the conventional way. Kind of a pain with the engine in. I did tighten a few. Am going to double check with backslide method in the next day or 2. I have to read up a bit more on that. If I'm proud of the result I'll post the "after engine sound. If not, I'll regroup for another day.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by pjd131

Am going to double check with backslide method in the next day or 2.

Good job. Take the time to figure this out.

The conventional method offers variables like the cam side of the rocker sticking (oil) to the cam coupled with the rocker sliding left and right on the rocker shaft. Makes it feel weird.

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by pjd131

Thanks for the ideas. Booked off work and did the adjustment the conventional way. Kind of a pain with the engine in. I did tighten a few. Am going to double check with backslide method in the next day or 2. I have to read up a bit more on that. If I'm proud of the result I'll post the "after engine sound. If not, I'll regroup for another day.

The backside is basically the same as conventional with regard to turning the engine but you check clearance between the rocker arm and cam lobe. So you'd turn the engine to Z1 (#1 TDC) verify with rotor pointing toward mark on distributor. Check clearance with .0025, then .003. If .003 slides in, tighten the valve. I very slightly loosen the retainer nut so that I'm tightening the nut on the body as I turn the adjuster bolt then slide the feller gauge between the rocker and cam lobe. I try to get where there's just a little resistance when pulling the .0025 back out. Once it's out, I wiggle the rocker and try to slip it back in. If it goes, then try to slide the .003 in. If it doesn't go, you're good. Then do the exhaust same way then rotate to the next position on the crank pulley.

Hope this helps.