Elephant racing bump steer kit replacement

[dickster]

I fitted this basic bump steer kit $349.99 1986 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe - Suspension Upgrades & Performance - Page 2 some years ago, and I estimate it has only done a few thousand dry road miles (my 911 covers less than 1,000 miles a year) - they are worn and need replacing - I believe they were Smart Racing items (NLA?). I am pretty disappointed that they need replacing already (I was concerned when I bought them as they do not have a protective boot).

Elepant now do these adjustable ones with boots
Elephant Racing | Bump Steer Kits | Porsche 911/912/930

$380 is a lot of money, are there any alternatives?

Cheers

Rich

[OffCamber00]

Curious as to what wore on them. You are right in that it is very few miles to need replacing. You might want to call Chuck.

In terms of alternatives.....IIRC rebel racing makes a set but I think pricing was similar.

[dickster]

The bearing part is worn, when I lift the car and move the wheel, I can feel movement in the joint.

I wonder whether I can just buy the bearing part, rod end.

I'll contact Chuck.. what's his username?

Thanks

*edit* I have sent Chuck a message - perhaps, i hindsight, I should have done that first.

[tirwin]

You'll probably have better luck calling or emailing him. His username is Chuck Moreland.

[$ Short]

Keep us posted
If you were doing offroad rallies I could see them wearing out. Any way to tell if it is the shaft where it connects to strut ,or shaft to heim joint.

[dickster]

no, its definitely the heim joint thats worn.

[Chuck Moreland]

Originally Posted by dickster

I fitted this basic bump steer kit $349.99 1986 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe - Suspension Upgrades & Performance - Page 2 some years ago, and I estimate it has only done a few thousand dry road miles (my 911 covers less than 1,000 miles a year) - they are worn and need replacing - I believe they were made by Elephant Racing. I am pretty disappointed that they need replacing already (I was concerned when I bought them as they do not have a protective boot).

Elepant now do these adjustable ones with boots
Elephant Racing | Bump Steer Kits | Porsche 911/912/930

$380 is a lot of money, are there any alternatives?

Cheers

Rich

Hi Rich

That $349.99 part that wore out on you is not an Elephant Racing product.

We do have a variety of bump steer correction products available, all made with high quality American made rod ends. We offer the products with rubber boots to seal out contaminate for extended bearing life.

Chuck

[dickster]

Hi Chuck,

Thanks for responding. Did you not produce a similar product a few years ago? If not, I apologise - not sure where I got it from in that case!

Cheers

Rich

ps I've changed the thread title

[dickster]

Update - my apologies Chuck, I have now found the original invoice and it was a Smart Racing product.

Cheers

Rich

[dickster]

Smart Racing no longer list them - the ones stocked by Pelican look identical, so I am guessing thats where they are from?

[dickster]

Originally Posted by Chuck Moreland

Hi Rich

That $349.99 part that wore out on you is not an Elephant Racing product.

We do have a variety of bump steer correction products available, all made with high quality American made rod ends. We offer the products with rubber boots to seal out contaminate for extended bearing life.

Chuck

Chuck,

I sent you a pm recently, did you get it? I asked if your Heim joint is a direct replacement for the Smart Racing one that I have - i do not want to pay for a complete kit again.

Thanks

[tirwin]

I can't tell your location so maybe you don't want to make an international call but every time I've ever called Chuck, he's answered the phone. You might try calling him directly to get your question answered faster.

[javadog]

Rod ends are available from an endless number of suppliers. Have a look at the ones you need to replace and see if you can determine the manufacturer and series. Then, it's just a matter of sourcing new ones from a bearing supplier.

Be aware that there are many different choices in a given size, so you want to be sure the ones you pick to replace the originals are equal in strength and other characteristics. Using the same bearing as before should be safe. There may be boots available to fit the replacements, so look for those too.

JR

[Quicksilver]

Originally Posted by dickster

The bearing part is worn, when I lift the car and move the wheel, I can feel movement in the joint.

. . .

It has to be a pretty sub standard part to die so quickly. I ran exposed heim joints on a complete suspension for about 50K miles over 5 years with no detectable wear. That included year round driving in Anchorage and driving the Alaska highway.

Look for teflon lined bearings. When selecting make sure you are matching the angle of misalignment. I'd try McMaster Carr as a starter.

[Cairo94507]

Just a thought - I would go back to your original post and remove Elephant Racing's name from the post as the part was not their part. They are a stand-up company and should no be unfairly associated with an inferior product. I realize many posts down you post it was not their product, but the first post mentions them by name. Good luck with the replacement parts.

[dickster]

Originally Posted by Cairo94507

Just a thought - I would go back to your original post and remove Elephant Racing's name from the post as the part was not their part. They are a stand-up company and should no be unfairly associated with an inferior product. I realize many posts down you post it was not their product, but the first post mentions them by name. Good luck with the replacement parts.

Good point, i have edited the original post.

I PM'd Chuck as its more convenient for me - I am in the UK. If I dont get a response I'll source the parts in the UK - probably have to be a complete kit.

[Cory M]

ERP (Eisenlohr Racing Products) made your original kit. If you talk to an ERP distributor you should be able to get the parts you need for far less $$$ than replacing the entire kit, especially if the parts wore out prematurely:

Distributors for ERP Suspension Engineering

I needed some bits and pieces to complete an ERP bumpsteer kit I had a couple of years ago. I got everything I needed through an ERP dealer and it was a cheap and fast transaction.

[dickster]

Originally Posted by Cory M

ERP (Eisenlohr Racing Products) made your original kit. If you talk to an ERP distributor you should be able to get the parts you need for far less $$$ than replacing the entire kit, especially if the parts wore out prematurely:

Distributors for ERP Suspension Engineering

I needed some bits and pieces to complete an ERP bumpsteer kit I had a couple of years ago. I got everything I needed through an ERP dealer and it was a cheap and fast transaction.

Thanks Cory, that's very useful info. I am going to contact ERP to see about replacing the worn parts.

[Chuck Moreland]

Originally Posted by dickster

Smart Racing no longer list them - the ones stocked by Pelican look identical, so I am guessing thats where they are from?

Those ERP/Smart bump steer kits used imperial measure bolts. 7/16 inch I think. Not sure what size rod end was used.

Our kits are made with all-metric bit's so would not be a direct substitution.

Chuck

[Walt Fricke]

As several posts have advised, it is not a big deal at all to get replacement heim joints. The SRP joint is a female joint per their catalog (I have one saved). You need the right thread, which you will have to measure (although Imperial thread ought not to be a problem where you live). You need the right length - easy to measure. Plus the misalignment and Teflon. Sometimes these come in different strengths, but you can't go wrong buying the strongest if a catalog lists more than one grade. And I'd be astounded if you can't find good quality replacement rod ends (perhaps called Rose joints where you are) in England. Plus you can purchase little rubber caps to go over both sides of the joint to keep out some of the dust. Any race shop ought to be able to help you.

Though if you can just get a replacement from ERP, that may be less work. Doesn't answer the question of rapid wear, though. I agree with Wayne - these joints are usually way more robust than yours seems to have been. They aren't really designed for 200,000 miles of use, but a lot more than a couple of thousand.