CV Joint Removal and Wear Questions

[wrxnofx]

I noticed this past Summer that my passenger inner CV joint boot was split and leaking grease. Today I got around to removing it (first timer).

So, long story short, after removing removing the 6 bolts, removing the end cap, removing the snap ring, removing both clamps, and pulling the boot back, I could not get the joint off the axle spline just by pulling it off. I had to tap it off the spline using a brass punch on the star shaped part. Problem is, evidently the star shape at the center of the CV is made from brass, too. Good to know. So now the star piece is dented and, worse yet, the edge of the grooves the balls travel on are "bent" at the top, forcing me to have to replace it. Here is a pic:



So, first question is, how in the hell are you supposed to get a CV joint off the axle shaft without damaging it?

Second question is, I think this joint was shot anyway given the wear. Please tell me that's the case so I'm not as mad at myself for damaging it. The balls themselves are fine, but the other two parts are worn:

[winders]

Are you sure you used a brass drift punch? The inner race (star) is made out of some type of hardened steel and will not deform when brass drifts are used. I know because I just rebuilt all four CV joints on my race car and they all use standard GKN parts. I had to bang really hard on 3 of them with a brass drift. The star has to be as hard as the outer race. The cage is made out of a different material.

The wear looks reasonable. The cage always seems to have the most wear and the wear in the photo does not look too bad. When you run your fingernail over the wear points on the outer and inner race, do you feel a valley at the shiny points or is it just smoother than the surrounding steel?

I don't like using the grease that comes with the GKN kits. I use Red Line CV-2 instead with MUCH better results.

[zelrik911]

Yes you should replace the joint as it is worn - mildly.
You have to buy a new boot anyway, so order a kit with both boot & joint in it & grease/gaskets.

Read the posts about the bolts coming loose after installation and decide if you want to use thread-locker goo on the bolts.
Good luck - its one of the easiest 911 repair jobs.

[sc_rufctr]

I'd use them as is. Polish off the damage and go for it.

These cars are really well engineered. I think we forget that sometimes and things are replaced before being fully worn out.

[michael lang]

I agree with Scott and Peter, clean and polish it, put it back together, pack the hell out of it with cv grease and put the new boots on. Mine were in similar shape a few years ago, six track season later, still sealed up and quiet.

[jlex]

I replaced the boots on the left driveshaft this past fall. First time for me too. Took the shaft completely off to make the job easier. Stop banging on the CV joint, people. Use a gear puller to move it gently off the shaft. You can get a cheap one for $10 or so. If I recall, I had to put a couple of bolts on the joint to give the puller something to latch on to as its arms weren't wide enough to reach around the joint. Using a vise when playing with these messy things helps tremendously. I also remember using a bit of duct tape on the joint as soon as I disconnected it from the transaxle to keep the joint from falling apart between the car and the vise. Will do the right side in the Spring.

[DaveA]

Clean it up, grease it, and run it. If it does not make noise, it's ok. If it clicks, replace it. I've probably done this to 100 or more joints, lost count. Dave

[winders]

Make sure you assemble the CV joints as described here:

http://www.californiaperformance.com/cv_assembly.htm

[wrxnofx]

Originally Posted by winders

Are you sure you used a brass drift punch? The inner race (star) is made out of some type of hardened steel and will not deform when brass drifts are used.

Yup, absolutely a brass punch. Hence my surprise that something so soft would dent the CV joint.

[wrxnofx]

This forum never ceases to amaze me. Thanks for all the replies, everyone.

I'm leaning towards re-using this joint. I didn't know what was considered excessive wear versus mild wear, and now I know.

However, the one area of concern is one of the ball tracks. Evidently I got careless with where the brass drift was placed on the star when tapping the joint out, and I got it near the edge of one of the ball tracks, which mushroomed the top edge:


I should be able to just file it smooth I would expect. What say you?

[manbridge 74]

Small round or half-round file and done....

[winders]

Yes, file it smooth. The ball will never get up that high anyway.

[patz]

Buy a new set of axles and CV joints. The rebuild is a nasty job. Contact Eric at www.pmbperformance.com .... plug and play.

[porterdog]

The half-shafts for my C4 are stupid expensive, so I sent them all to CV of Ocala (FL) for a rebuild. ~$150 each, they polish the ways (not grind) and replace the balls with ones slightly larger.

Very happy with the results.

[ClickClickBoom]

Reconstructing Constant Velocity (CV) Joints

[steve911T]

If you ever have any trouble getting it off the shaft, Autozone and I am sure other stores have loaner tools. I used a puller on 3 of the 4 joints. Dirty job. Steve

[wrxnofx]

Originally Posted by patz

Buy a new set of axles and CV joints. The rebuild is a nasty job. Contact Eric at www.pmbperformance.com .... plug and play.

So, instead of a $10 fix (boot kit from our host) or at worst, a $71 fix (CV joint from our host), you would spend $310 on a whole new axle? Actually, you said a SET, so $620 vs. $10. I guess that's one way to do it.

[patz]

Do what you want. I have a warranty and no issues. Advice is free.

[Jesse16]

I would rebuild them. These are very robust parts and the angles they operate at are reasonably slight. Just keep things clean during the rebuild. If like my 87, you cannot easily take the outer end apart. I had damaged outer boots and cleaning that end with the parts still together is the only difficult step.

[Bulldog9]

My 76 had large circlips and an a beveled washer holding the joint on the shaft.