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ack! What broke?!?!

Driving down my street, a big "snap" sounds from the front end, and now it is riding lower. I would be tempted to say a strut insert broke- but oddly, it SEEMS like both sides of the front are now riding VERY low. When I jack up the front, one wheel droops and the other doesn't, which I would think indicates one broken shock. Any opinions?

This is awful timing, I have appointment with the body shop on Monday, been waiting 2 months for an opening :-(

Thanks
-Glenn

Old 07-17-2015, 05:52 AM
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Need more info:

What kind of car?
Year?
Model?
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Old 07-17-2015, 05:59 AM
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Sorry - '87 Carrera coupe.

I spoke with my mechanic, who feels it's probably a torsion bar that broke. The car has 245k miles on it, so anything is possible...

When I jack the car up, the strut LOOKS like it's OK, I know that doesn't prove anything.

I'm calling around to find a torsion bar, maybe I can install this weekend.

Thanks
-Glenn
Old 07-17-2015, 06:10 AM
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You should replace both torsion bar
Old 07-17-2015, 06:23 AM
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Yes, it is a torsion bar. You'll need to replace both, don't buy just one. It will be a stress fracture resulting from corrosion. You'll see that both are compromised even if one broke first.

Especially at your mileage, this is also going to necessitate a a-arm bushing replacement.

Maybe you can find a bar to just stick in there temporarily and drive to the body shop at extremely low speeds. To do this job right and make your car safe to drive once again, you've got a bit of work to do.
Old 07-17-2015, 06:25 AM
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Yep, it sounds like a torsion bar. Most likely the rubber bushings are just worn out. If you look at the other "good" side I bet you see the bar is way off center.

You can just replace the bar but the bar will be rubbing in the same place. The real fix is to replace the rubber bushings and the torsion bars. Of course to get the a-arms off you have to remove them and that means ball joints, tie rods and the rest. BTDT. You car will be much better when you get it fixed.
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Old 07-17-2015, 06:31 AM
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Thanks folks. I spoke to the body shop - looks like, worst case, they can work on the car as is, and I can pursue a fix later. That's my big fear. I'm not too wild about having to drive the car this way, but it's just to the body shop...

In any case, sounds like some work needs to be done. *sigh*

Thanks everyone!

-Glenn
Old 07-17-2015, 06:43 AM
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Chances are that your tire is rubbing the underside of the fender. Drive it any distance and it is going to blister the paint on the fender and ruin the tire.

Quote:
Originally Posted by alfisti View Post
Thanks folks. I spoke to the body shop - looks like, worst case, they can work on the car as is, and I can pursue a fix later. That's my big fear. I'm not too wild about having to drive the car this way, but it's just to the body shop...

In any case, sounds like some work needs to be done. *sigh*

Thanks everyone!

-Glenn
Old 07-17-2015, 06:53 AM
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The car should be all but undrivable with a busted from t-bar. The tire would be stuffed into the wheelwell, stopped only by either the strut being collapsed or the tire pressed against the inside of the fender. Either would make it so you couldn't steer worth a damned or dragging the tire so hard that you'd have trouble safely accelerating.

I've had my t-bars snap (in the rear), and the tire was 6 inches into the fenderwell. The fronts would be just as bad.

I wonder if there's something very different going on here.
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Old 07-17-2015, 07:14 AM
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There is definitely clearance between the tire and the inner fender well, at least when going straight.

I may be able to get a replacement bar (or two), and have some time on Sunday to work on this. It doesn't look like a quick and easy job, though, for me to do. If the mounts are rusted together.... :-(
Old 07-17-2015, 08:13 AM
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Do it correctly and rebuild the arms/bushings while you are in there. You will be amazed at the difference.
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Old 07-17-2015, 08:19 AM
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first priority is getting on the road for the body shop... after that, sure, anything... the tie rods are Turbo ones, newish... 22k miles on them, btw
Old 07-17-2015, 08:49 AM
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How do the adjusters look?

Usually the bushings are shot before the torsion bar fails, so don't plan on replacing the bar(s) without doing the bushings at the same time, or you'll be doing this again.

I would get the car to the body shop on the back of a flat bed, if it were mine.

JR
Old 07-17-2015, 09:42 AM
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OK - thanks for the input. I just may do that on Monday morning.

But oddly - i don't SEE a crack in torsion bar. Where would I see the break? It could be inside the mount, I guess?
Old 07-17-2015, 10:25 AM
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You can't see the torsion bar when it's installed in the a-arm.

JR
Old 07-17-2015, 10:29 AM
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pics at torsion bar - HeartOfGold
Old 07-17-2015, 10:30 AM
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If you check the used parts classifieds I think there are a few sets of standard Tbars for sale.
Old 07-17-2015, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfisti View Post
That's the a-arm, the torsion bar is INSIDE the thicker tube.

Since you seem to have it in the air, do this. Grab the tire with your hand. Lift the tire.

Can you lift the tire without your eyes bursting open and bleeding? If so, the t-bar is busted, you're just lifting against the shock. If you can't really lift the tire at all, then the t-bar is working (since it would take a couple hundred pounds of force to lift it).
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Old 07-17-2015, 10:57 AM
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I have a set of 1978 911SC original front T bars you can have plus shipping. They are marked Left and Right, are 19mm and with some small amount of rust but not from rubbing in the tube caused by worn out bushings.
Old 07-17-2015, 12:14 PM
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Old 07-17-2015, 12:18 PM
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