pop-out conversion latch mounting threads question

[Pazuzu]

Doing the fixed to pop-out rear quarter window conversion. I know I need threaded inserts for the c pillar to mount the latch.

It appears that the mounting point there is pretty thin, so I *assumed* that I would need M5 rivet nuts, like this:
Amazon.com: 20pcs Flat Head Metric Steel M5 Blind Insert Rivet Nut Rivnut: Home Improvement

However, at least one thread shows someone actually getting a tap to thread the material, and using threaded inserts like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GPG358

Now, it seemed to me from a cursory glance that the C-pillar is not thick enough to take a thread, was I mistaken? Which style of insert have you guys actually used?

Thanks!

[Tim K]

I'm not certain about this but I *think* some fixed-quarter cars retained the plate inside the c-pillar for a time. Presumably the the earlier cars had it before they 'fixed the glitch'. Maybe somebody can verify this. If somebody was tapping threads in the c-pillar, I should think it was into the plate. Not sure why threaded inserts would be necessary in this case.

In lieu of the plate, I think the rivnuts are a reasonable solution - assuming the holes in the c-pillar are an appropriate size for the rivnut. It's important that if you use these that they are installed properly - in the appropriately sized hole. It can sometimes be very difficult to remove a screw from a rivnut spinning in the hole.

Tim K

[will hung]

I used riv-nuts. I have a 1979 SC.

I tried to use these funky bolts that had a rubber boot with thread inside, as you tightened the bolt, the rubber boot would compress and provide your backing. These sucked. Didn't pull the window in tight enough, so my pop-outs leaked.

So I broke down and bought riv-nuts and a riv-nut mandrel.

When I did mine, I bought everything from McMaster-Carr and they only had 6mm riv-nuts, so I had to open the holes up a little on my hinges to fit the M6 hardware. Amazon is awesome and I wish I had the M5 option at the time.

Since using Riv-nuts (and replacing the spring pins in my hinges) I haven't had a leak when closed or rattle when open.

[Pazuzu]

Originally Posted by Pazuzu

It appears that the mounting point there is pretty thin, so I *assumed* that I would need M5 rivet nuts, like this:
Amazon.com: 20pcs Flat Head Metric Steel M5 Blind Insert Rivet Nut Rivnut: Home Improvement

For completeness in case someone searches...
My 1980 SC has thin walls with no backing plates, the material is sheetmetal thickness. I will use the rivnuts. The existing holes fit the rivnuts listed above PERFECTLY. So, I will have M5 threads for my hinge mount.

I did need to drill the hinges out to 5mm, they were closer to 4mm holes. I do not know if the hinges changed at any time over the years, if they went with different sized hardware.