Doing it on their own, yesterday is such a long time ago now.

Just got mine back a week ago....
Windows out, doors off, repaint in original black, only minor dents and dings 6500
Todge

I diassembled the whole car, which by the way is not super difficult but still a lot of small challenges due to POS previous owner:


Before paint ready to spray:

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/401/2...418b34888b.jpg

After paint:

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3820/...c4d0b3e244.jpg

About $4000.00

Long term relationship with the paint shop.

Keep in mind, even without any body work or rust you need to consider how many times the car was already painted. If you're on original paint you may be able to get away with keying the paint and reshooting. If the car was already resprayed (most have been at this point) any good shop will want to take it down to metal or original primer if it's there. This is a lot of work and is the time consuming prep work that drives the cost the most.

I'd budget $4-5K for a good driver quality respray. This is what I had paid on my last two repaints and I did the disassembly / reassembly and had a long time friend / body guy do the work. If you're walking into a shop, it'll probably be closer to $7K minimum for a good driver quality job.

When I restored my Weissach, it ran me $4k+ for paint, not including stripping the car down and reassembling it.

Is that 2 pack? ... Hope not :(

I can't see doing a quality job for less than $10k. I've seen what $5-7k buys and that's not good enough for me. Remember, you probably won't want to re-use any of the old rubber or trim. Things like front turn signal lenses often get replaced, too, as the old ones usually look bad next to new paint. Might was well consider the window frames, glass trim, etc. You might want some new hardware to put it back together.

If you're really thinking ahead, you might pull the front fenders and fix any rust in the tub to fender flanges.

It wouldn't surprise me to blow through $15k, if you want to only do it once and be happy with it forever.

JR

Don't most people pull the fenders for a repaint?

Why the 1 lid hinge?

Single stage urethane with hardener.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1438825547.jpg

Took a long time.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1438825593.jpg

Not in my experience, no. Even Porsche originally painted the cars with the fenders bolted in place. That's why you often see corrosion on the flanges between the tub and fenders.

JR

That's the only one with a support strut attched to it, which the shop did not remove.

JR

You have to at least separate the fenders to replace the cowl beading, since a repaint is the time to do it. My fenders were removed completely to remedy rust starting on the flanges. Also, the inner surfaces—with all their nooks and crannies—were treated to prevent future problems.

Exactly my basis/procedure.

Paint bubbles were visible on the tub side of the beading about an inch up on the cowl. The rust was thankfully very localized and nearly identical from side to side. A 3/4" "circle" on the vertical of the cowl on a small weld seam. Cleaned up nicely and still had integrity.

Nooks and crannies - way up in there towards the cabin - crud accumulates. I had a nice sponge pad of dirt and whatever else the wheel would throw up there.

Always pull fenders off, even if only for the channel expertly engineered to collect dirt and water.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1436754002.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1436754015.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1436754052.jpg

And the impossible-to-reach-by-hand pinched area by the head light bucket!

+1,

and don't think you can leave the glass in and do a good repaint.

The best paint jobs (if you really need one) are the job in which the car is completely blown apart. I.e., the lid hinges and other bits should be hanging on wire and painted off the car. It's a great feeling assembling everything afterward.

I just want to add that when painting metallic paint, the orientation of panels when sprayed is critical (in other words, being as they will be when all assembled)

This is very important imo.

The hinge was after removed and touched up on my end. After the respray, car spent another 2 weeks for correcting imperfections.

I can easily see this being a $10,000.00- $15,000.00 job if you are paying someone for a complete strip down bare to metal up paint work including some body fixes. If you are willing to put in the work, take everything off, be patient with your body shop, and put everything back together yourself, budget at least $5000.00-$6000.00

Seals add up tremendously. On top of it you will find stuff like fog lamp housings, tail light housings, small minor damaged bits and pieces. That all adds up.

Another thing is how far do you want to take it? Do you want to make everything perfect? Or do you want to clean up the car? How clean do you want to go.... One can easily get carried away.

We can speculate all day. Heck, you can pay $30,000.00 for a paint job.

+++ 1

On mine the air con hoses were right on/in the channel to further clog and collect dirt, and prevent draining....terrible routing. Happily the other side was spotless, I guess the heat of the oil cooler helps plus keeps the dirt out.
I rerouted the a/c hoses to keep the channel open.

Why is it that we put men on the moon but a thread title cannot be edited?

Anyway, anyone here think installing the rear glass in a 911 is a PITA?

8 years ago I had a friend (also a pro glass guy) come over to help me w a 3.2's rear glass install after paint. I was soldering the defroster wires, his task was to install the gasket with me. He got silicon spray everywhere..

Anyway, he started cursing up a storm after about 45 minutes and left.

The next weekend i methodically did it alone (but with a beer)

You have to be in the right frame of mind and have your body in a comfortable position
when doing restoration work.:)