71 Coupe Project

[RD911T]

I got my 71 Roller yesterday and dove into the rear suspension tonight. Removed the Discs, hubs, trailing arms and spring plates. Pulled the drivers side T-bar. The passenger side T-Bar is stuck in the spring plate. I'll go at it tomorrow night and try reinserting it and hitting the spring plate to loosen it up. If that doesn't work I'll drill a hole in the end cap and spray some Kroil or PB Blaster in there and let it soak for a while.

The first surprise was that there are no rear calipers on the car. Not sure how I missed that. I'm probably going to upgrade the front brakes, can the front calipers be swapped to the rear? The rear end came apart way easier than I expected. I'm used to working on my 97 540 and it's what more complicated. It was nice having the factory worship manual right next to me for the step by step.

I'm going to do:

Rear bearings,
Trailing arm bushings - Neatrix
Spring plate bushings - Neatrix
Upgrade to 26mm solid T-bars (I've got a 3.0L on the way).
Brakes of course

I don't have any axles. What will fit with the 74 915 I've got coming and my stock rear hubs?

[IMG][/IMG]

1971 T Roller

Right Spring Plate - Missing the adjusters

What kind of mirror goes here? Is this right for a standard 71 mirror?

[matt930s]

RD-

Did that 911 come from South Carolina; looks like Vickcraws old roller...

Matt

[RD911T]

It was sitting in a shop in St. Louis for years. Good part was it was painted and then stored inside a heated shop/showroom.

I got the mirror I bought in the mail today and I can see that it matches up to the holes I have.

[Allen_70S]

The round Durant mirror was through 1971. The "Flag" mirror was introduced in 1972.

[RD911T]

Here is a pic of my hub on my 71. 5 10mm bolts. Is this stock? I need axles that connect to the early 915 in the next pic. Suggestions? I have someone that offered me axles that will connect to the 915, but are 4 10mm bolts and 2 stubs on the hub side.


Wheel hub from 71 Coupe


915 Tranny - 1974 I think - waiting for delivery

Thanks for any help in finding the right axles.

[CCM911]

Good work! Now head on over to the Pilot House and reward yourself with a beer!

[RD911T]

Originally Posted by CCM911

Good work! Now head on over to the Pilot House and reward yourself with a beer!

HaHa! The pilot house it just around the corner, maybe less than a mile! I had dinner there Monday night! The Tank is Awesome!!!

[jpnovak]

What year 915? The 100mm 6 bolt stub axles from the through-79 915 will bolt up to your 71 outer wheel hubs.

This is the easiest route to converting the system. If you have the type 911 transmission output flanges these will bolt into the early 915 and allow you to use the stronger 108mm CV joints that were stock in 71.

[RD911T]

Jamie, I'm pretty sure it's a 1974 915.

[jpnovak]

If its a 74 915 it should have 108mm 4 bolt-2 pin CV joints. This would bolt directly up to a stock 71 911 trailing arm and stub axle.

I don't think they changed to the 100mm flanges until 76. but I could be wrong.

[RD911T]

I was confused before, but went and looked at the diagram in the catalog on porsche.com What I have a picture of above is my wheel hub. I'm missing everthing else between there and the tranny. #12 on the diagram is the drive shaft and #13 is Drive shaft complete. 12 is the splined shaft that inserts into the back side of my wheel hub and is bolted and pinned from the outside. Then #13 bolts to that on the inside and includes the CV on either end with the axle shaft in between. So I need #12. What do people on Pelican call that part? I'd post a pic from the catalog if I knew how.

[jpnovak]

These are usually called stub axles. These will have a CV flange on one end, a splined shaft that mates with your wheel hub (in picture above) and also a threaded end that the castleated wheel nut goes onto.

Just make sure that you measure the output flanges on the transmission and note the number of threaded holes and/or pins. the early cars used two roll pins in substitute for 2 of the threaded holes.

The object in the right of the following photo is the stub axle. The object on the left is the transmission output flange. These must match.



You will want to buy CV shafts and stub axles that match the output flange. Also post the serial number and type of the transmission so that we can help you verify the correct parts.

[KevinS]

Yes, the '71 used the 4-1/2" round durrant mirrors. Good luck finding a real one. I put a replica on mine I found on ebay ($60). Not good, glass moves and doesn't really adjust. I will get a real one as soon as I can at a reasonable price.

[RD911T]

The 915 I bought is at the shop getting checked over. They called me to say it arrived and I asked about the output flanges. They said 6 bolt 108mm. The bolts are 8mm, not 10mm. Does this narrow down what stub axles and axles I need?

[RD911T]

I'd post the serial number and type of the tranny, but it has been scraped off the bottom as it seems a lot of them have.

[RWebb]

why do you even want a 915 Tranny - 1974??

[RD911T]

Randy I know it's not your first choice, but it is what I have and I'm just trying to make it work.

[RWebb]

be sure to do the dam seal mod on it

[RD911T]

As mentioned above, I'm putting a 3.0L in my 71 Coupe. Looking for ideas, point to other threads and suggestions about oil cooling. From reading it seems like I need to have a front oil cooler of some kind.

1.Do I need hard lines to go from the thermostat to the cooler or can I get flexible lines fabbed at a local hydraulic shop?
2. My right battery box is intact and in nice shape. Do I need to cut it out to mount a fender cooler?
3. I'm going with TRE's S front bumper. I don't have a front bumper now. I guress I could consider a bumper with a front valance for a center mount cooler, but I don't like those styles of bumpers as much as the S style.
4. ERP makes a complete kit, but at $2700 plus it's pricey. It may be worth it, but I'd like to do it cheaper if possible.

TIA

[RWebb]

hmmm, T motor in MO... how much do you drive on hot summer days? actual air temp., not humidity

it would be better to have one in the fender well for sure - maybe you can get away without one

1. either
2. no
3. wheel well is stock place - do that
4. see if you can find used cooling lines near you - maybe at Okie Foreign