There are so many good bits of advise. I can only reiterate:

1. Drop it with the tranny and gearbox together
2. Use 2 jacks, under the engine and under the gear box.
3. Down in the back, pull back, down in the back some more pull back until the shift shaft clears the tunnel

It helps to remove the rear bumper, and jack the rear of the car way up...

Yes, it is inserted in a floor Jack.
I cannot tell what you have or don't have handy to work on your vehicle.
I don't even know how you raised your car or how it is sitting.
Someone mentioned a lift?
I have a lift, a Jack and an engine hoist. All used to remove and then move my engine and tranny as a unit multiple times.

Photos really help tell the story. :)

Yes, I have a scissor jack that I bought for the 911. I have a brand new floor jack too.

With the Jack adapter and a lift I just unbolted everything with lift lowered so that engine and trans rested on the Jack, adjusted the angle of the tilt on the adapter and raised the car off the engine and trans. Slowly adjusting the Jack position as needed to clear everything.

Old Photo of car on my lift taken just before pulling the power train.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1442809879.jpg

What kind of scissor is that? I'm looking for something like that to do maintenance on my cars.

For reference without a lift. As mentioned, I had the car pretty much level front to back and got the engine and trans out and lowered then I removed the jack stands from the front of the car and lowered the front. I find it a little easier to get the engine in and out when the car is level or near level. I should add that I removed my air intake box and the elbow on top of the throttle body and had JUST enough room to get the engine out from under the rear valance.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1442836820.jpg

Thanks Timmy2. I guess I'll pick up a Jack adapter. I hate to spend the money after buying a new floor jack, but if it makes it easier, what the heck. I appreciate the advice. My floor jack is identical to yours , except you put yours in backwards. ;)
Cabmando, I was looking on picking up a new scissor jack when I stumbled upon mine on
craigslist. I paid around $600 used, but they're not very expensive. Problem is, it doesn't "fit" any other of my cars. But, I'm ok with that. Beats the hassle I'd go through using a floor jack and stands.
Again, thanks to everyone for the great input.

My scissor lift is an old snap on unit I picked up used 4 years ago off craigslist. Paid $800 for it delivered to my place.

Engine drop solo........
 

There are many ways to do the engine drop solo and safely. I have used the floor jacks, two (2) 2-ton chain hoists, and hydraulic lift methods for my engine drops. But one thing that has not changed is using an engine dolly. I find it convenient and safer setting the engine on a cart and raising the car. A hydraulic table is a better and more efficient set-up so far. Which ever method you use, stay safe and take your time.

You have to tilt the engine with the crank shaft pulley end lower that the flywheel side if the alternator housing is installed on the car. You need sufficient space to clear the alternator fan housing to get the motor out. This is one of the most gratifying work as a 911 DIYer. Keep us posted.

Tony

Will do. I need to rest after the disappointing weekend.

Bigdog,

After doing my first engine drop in 40+ years, I just removed the license plate panel and the bumper Guards on my 70T. I have had the bumper off the rear of my Carrera and it is a pain, but it makes the job easier getting the motor out from under the car. Stay safe and take your time and yes, it is a PIA.

Steve

Can anyone tell me if the Jack Adapter is stable enough to leave the motor mounted for minor maintenance...like replacing oil cooler O-rings? Or is it just for lowering and installing? Thanks!

Lowering and installing, I didn't trust it for much more than moving it around.
If you are getting the adapter, make sure it will fit your Jack's opening when removing the round adjustable or rotating plate in the Jack for it.
I had to grind mine all around to get it to fit.

Easy enough to use a few 4x4 blocks of wood under the heat exchangers to stabilize the engine on the Jack.

loosen the tranny mount bolt a little to allow tranny to tilt? i'm not really sure what is happening... feel free to ignore. good luck.

Yes I used a bunch of 4x4 blocks of wood under my heat exchangers to stabilize things, if the engine did fall it wouldn't go far. I removed my engine and tranny as one unit on my own. It got a little hairy at one stage but it was more intimidating than anything else. Once the unit was low enough to clear the rear frame I pulled it forward and the whole unit came down onto the furniture dollys (big and small from HF). Here's a video of the process:

<iframe width="853" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/EiJYSQI2N7U" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Good Luck!

-Kav.

That video is the wrong way. Jack car up real high, un bolt axles and oil lines and what nots, then lower the car back down, put jack under the engine, take out the four motor mount bolts, and then "raise" the car off the engine and trans. Much safer and faster.

I like the idea of raising the car off the engine too. But I appreciate all info from everyone. I'm probably going to try and tackle it again this Friday. Looking forward to seeing the engine out finally! And as advised several times here...I'll take it slow...

Eureka, gold at last! Thank you all very, very much. It was close, but it came out. The dang shaft STILL gave me problems....even when the motor was out! It wouldn't clear the cross beam on my scissor jack. I wonder if it will ever run again. :-)‏ http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1443988617.jpg

She will, now go to work :D

You're right...I just realized that the works just starting. There are so many things to do! Paint the engine bay, clean the engine, paint the tins. Every time I look I see something new. It's good to be out for a couple of weeks, at least. Does anyone know if there's a source for the rubber seals around the engine bay? Or do I have to fabricate some? They're pretty crappy looking. :(

Bigdog,

You can order the rubber seal around the engine bay. Search the 911 registry website using engine seal replacement and you will see my thread there. I powder coated the tin, around $200 and am replacing my clutch that appears was not replaced in the engine rebuild last year. It is worn out. Cleaned and painted the engine bay, etc. Also put new boots on the CV joints (while I was in there). Make sure you take pictures on EVERYTHING as you remove it. It is a lot easier to figure out what goes where when the time comes. Good luck.

Steve