Need advice about changing brake pads myself

[fduvall]

I have read the write-up on changing brake pads on a 911, but I wanted to ask how some of you would rate this procedure on a scale of difficulty.

I can do routine maintenence on my car, but I don't have any specialized tools, and am wondering if this is something that I can do myself. Being that they are brakes (pretty important safety item!), is this something that I should even attempt? Thanks for any feedback

FDuvall
'90 911 C2 Targa

[island911]

changing the wheel/tire is more difficult to do right.

Just remember (after everything is back together) to pump the brakes before the car starts moving again.

[Emission]

On my 930, I rate changing pads a '2' on a scale of 1-10.

Simplified:

1. Jack the car.
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Use pliers to remove the spring.
4. Use screwdriver to gently push/pry piston back.
5. Remove old pad.
6. Insert new pad.
7. Replace spring.
8. Replace wheel.
9. Lower car.
10. Torque wheel.

Compared to all of my previous cars (BMW, Audi, VW, Honda, Acura, Toyota...) that required the removal of the caliper (messy PIA), changing the pads on my 930 is simple.

Try it, and we'll talk you through any issues!

[island911]

See how easy it is to forget step #11

[fduvall]

Wow - Those are some fast responses. One thing that I forgot to ask is how to tell if my rotors are ok and if I need to change front and rear pads. Thanks again.

FDuvall
'90 911 C2 Targa

[Emission]

Originally posted by island911
See how easy it is to forget step #11

Ha ha... yes, do pump those brakes!

[Superman]

Step 11 is the beer, right?

Yes, this is incredibly easy. The way to tell if your rotor is okay is to examine it and measure its thickness. Mostly examine it. If all four front rotor surfaces are similar, then they are probably fine. If three are similar and one has deep grooves cut in it, then you have a bad rotor. Mercifully, front rotors are really really reasonable for our cars.

[island911]

Originally posted by Superman
Step 11 is the beer, right?. . .

No; that would be step 12 .
..Hey *that's* what they mean, when people talk about beer and a 12 step progarm.

[fduvall]

Looks like I have a weekend project coming up. Thanks again, for the responses. A final question (maybe?!):

If my brake pad sensor light is on, does this mean that all four pads need to be changed, or is it just the front ones? If I inspect all four, is it easy to tell if only the front or rear (or all four) need to be changed?

Thanks again, everybody.

FDuvall

[Eric Coffey]

There is a wear sensor for each of the four calipers. However, your warning light will come on if only one is contacting the rotor. Your front pads are probably the culprit, but check all four. You can clearly see if your pads need replacing just by inspecting them (proper thickness). Also, if you inspect your pads routinely,and replace them before the sensor wears through, you can re-use them (yes, I'm cheap). Just be careful pulling them out of the old pads and placing them into the new ones, as they are quite brittle. have fun!

[Ed VanderVeen]

Rotors are pretty cheap to replace if needed. Changing the brakes is quite easy in my opinion. On a Saturday (all day project), I replaced all 4 rotors, rebuilt all 4 calipers (with guidence from the Pelican tech. artical), replaced the brake lines with steel braided ones, replace pads, & bled the system. Of course I had all my parts in advance which made it much easier AND I had all the necessary tools. Like Emission said, changing 911 brakes is easier then any other make I have done. Now, I'm speaking about my '75 model. I assume the '90 model is just as easy (or close to it).

[fduvall]

Just read Robert Coats' thread here,

Brake Pads Won't Fit..Help Please

and got a bit concerned. I don't have that handy-dandy milling tool!!! But, I will soldier on a give it a try. What brand of pads would you all recommend, and where should I get them?

FDuvall - Looking forward to the challenge...

[JavaBrewer]

This was my first project on my car and it was a partial success. I wanted to replace the pads on 4 corners and also the front rotors. The pads (Metal-Meister) were very easy, actually the hardest part was reinstalling the brake pad wear sensors. The rears had this little clip that was a bugger to get in. Anyway total time was 2 hours of which most was used in jacking the car and removing the wheels. Other nice to have items:

1. Torque wrench
2. Soft socket
3. Hand cleaner (actually a must have...you're gonna get real dirty)

The rotors were not completed. My 86 Carrera was not like the project car in Waynes 101 book and the hard/soft line connection needed to be broken in order for me to move the calipers out of the way.



Had I known that I would have armed myself with the appropriate box wrench, brake fluid, and bleed system. Actually I will attempt this in another week or so and also replace the soft lines with SS DOT lines too.

Good luck, you should have no problems, but if you do post here and you'll probably get good response. I sure did!

[island911]

Oh yeah. . .Robert Coats' thread . .. and you have a C2.

The SCWDP has gone in and added a bit to every C2 pad out there, forcing the C2 owners to rethink the benifits of SC ownership, whilst they feverously flie the frayed pad perimeter.

Muhahahaha

just take a file to it.

[fduvall]

Aaaahhh, the dreaded SC conspiracy at work. I was warned about you people! Viva la 964!

FDuvall

[fduvall]

So I see Ate, Jurid, Textar, Pagid and Metal master pads on the Pelican site...anything else that I should consider. If not, which should I order? Do I need to order pad sensors at the same time, or can I re-use the ones that are already there? Thanks again.

FDuvall

[JavaBrewer]

Call the folks at Pelican and ask them. For my usual freeway drving and no DEs planned they recommended M.M. I re-used my wear sensors and had no idea of their condition going in. Maybe I got lucky...don't know if these things break a lot or not.

[masraum]

Remember these cars were designed with endurance racing in mind, so they wanted replacement of a consumable like pads to be quick and easy. They succeeded. These are likely some of the easiest pads to change of any car (at least for pre-'89 cars). The hardest part of changing the brakes is jacking up the car and taking the tire off.

[john70t]

A mityvac and/or a motive bleeder works good for bleeding

[pnzr911]

I just replaced both my front brake pads and it took all of 1 hour. One step that was left off the above lists, was to drive out the pins that hold the metal clips in place. I use a pick and hammer and gently tap them out. The toughest part of any disk brake job is pushing the caliper cylinders back far enough to fit in the new ones. As you will see your old pads are very thin compared to the nice new ones. If you try to push in the new ones they won't fit until you push those pistons back. I use a piece of wood and a large screw driver. Sometimes a good pair of pliers can "squeeze" them down. While your in there I would also replace your brake fluid with ATE Racing Blue. A messy job but well worth it. Remember old brake fluid attracks water and will corrode brake components like caliper pistons. I have warped more than one rotor disk like this. I use the Ferodo pads and highly recommend them. They are truly awesome. You CAN do this!

Good luck!!!