Jacking up 89 911

[robertmark]

Is there a safe spot to place a floor Jack so I can lift the rear of the car from one location, and lift the front of the car from another location. I would like to remove rear tires together, and then front tires together. Pictures would be great if available. Thanks

[scarceller]

Here you go, from the tech section. Tons of basic info in that section
Pelican Technical Article: Jacking Up Your Car - 911 (1965-89) - 930 Turbo (1975-89)

[sugarwood]

To jack the rear, I use the side jack plate and put jack stands on the torsion bar end.
Dasl Performance 20 Porsche 911 912 930 914 356 Jack Pad Plate Tool HD | eBay

For the front, I jack at the jack point behind the wheel well, and put the jack stands on the A-arms (I think they're called that)

[fitchesbass]

My favorite diagram someone made. I have this printed off and pinned in my garage.

I personally would chose to do use the body mount jack points.

X's - jack positions
O's - jack stand positions

[darrin]

Any reason why you couldn't simply remove left side tires together (front and rear) and they right side together) Easy to do with a floor jack using the side jack plate that sugar wood posted (actually, I have the round version our host sells -- Pelican Parts - Product Information: 10-6641-030-M230)

[Jesse16]

You can jack the rear from the center of the engine right at the oil drain plug where all the case webbing is, just like the tech article shows clearly. Use a cushion between the jack and aluminum engine. I do it all the time, some find this a distressing idea but I believe it to be OK. You can go straight to jack stands under the torsion tubes.
Front can be done similarly but is a bit trickier and you have to make something simple to bridge to the two front Torsion bar brackets so you can jack in the middle. I have to have my lowered car driven up on a two layers of 2x wood so I can get my low profile jack in place with the bracket centered in the middle, then lift the entire front. My very strong hardwood 3" square piece doesn't bend at all.
There are threads where others have made a metal cradle piece spaced exactly to hit the two torsion bar front covers. My wood part has two shallow notches.

[darrin]

Originally Posted by Jesse16

You can jack the rear from the center of the engine right at the oil drain plug where all the case webbing is, just like the tech article shows clearly. Use a cushion between the jack and aluminum engine. I do it all the time, some find this a distressing idea but I believe it to be OK. You can go straight to jack stands under the torsion tubes.
Front can be done similarly but is a bit trickier and you have to make something simple to bridge to the two front Torsion bar brackets so you can jack in the middle. I have to have my lowered car driven up on a two layers of 2x wood so I can get my low profile jack in place with the bracket centered in the middle, then lift the entire front. My very strong hardwood 3" square piece doesn't bend at all.
There are threads where others have made a metal cradle piece spaced exactly to hit the two torsion bar front covers. My wood part has two shallow notches.

Jesse16 -- here's a thread that recommends against the practice of jacking up the rear from the oil plug with what I felt were some good arguments against this practice -- ymmv -- Jack up the car under the dry sump

[Jesse16]

Good thread, all valid concerns so it just goes in the knowledge base. I actually don't jack the engine regularly but in certain cases it saves time for sure. I don't leave it held there and get it on stands, also use a very substantial jack so very unlikely to slip. I like that center tow-hook piece shown that goes to the engine mount, need to go look for that item.

[robertmark]

Thanks for all the great posts guys. Trying to remove rears together for brake bleed, and fronts together for brake bleed