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MBruns for President
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What to look for in a early "T" or "E"
I have been looking at a few early cars to replace my 964 that got KO'd by a yellow cab.
I know just enough to get me into trouble looking at the early cars - like look at the pans for rust, cross members, shock towers, torsion tubes. Look for mainetance records, chain tensioner upgrades, etc on motors. Anything else? Am I going to be happy going from a 964 to an early car? (I know I am the ony one who can answer this, but anybody on the board go this way?) Long term I would love to hot rod it with a 3.6 or the like. The two cars: 1971 E Coupe $8500 1970 T Coupe $7000 Help. |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 2,685
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You got it look for Rust
These early cars love to rust.
You will love an early 911. |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Chews Landing, New Jersey
Posts: 272
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Are you gonna be happy, probably not.
That's if you see it as a replacement, I have a T, great car, a 964 it isn't. I was just about to start a post on the values of Ts, especially after a certain post yesterday. I have a T, until yesterday my understanding of a high price for a T was about $15K, for this you would be getting an excellent car. A high price for an S is way up there. The problem for a T owner is that the parts cost the same. So to get a T into excellent condition costs pretty much the same as an S. For example you have a T, do you get a $1,000 dashboard! I didn't. I've gone a bit off Jeremy's post, but I think the replies to this, and his will help him Go for the E That's me done Jeff 911T |
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MBruns for President
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If I got an E or an S I'd want to keep it original.
If I got a T- I wouldn't mind hot rodding it up - 3.6. flares, etc. not necessarily a Jack O wannabe, just like to go fast and like the idea of the weight to HP ratio. I think if I did the same with an original "E" the Porsche gods would not smile on me favorably. Accurate? |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Chews Landing, New Jersey
Posts: 272
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Yep, you got it!
Although you may do better looking for a later galvanised car for the hot rod route. Jeff 911T |
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You do not have permissi
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: midwest
Posts: 39,870
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Some common rust areas are under the door sills(lift and check this), the pocket forward of the rear wheels, headlight buckets, and under window seals.
Bring a pick. A small crack in the undercoating could lead to finding a whole underpanel rusted out. If it's not applicable to be dealt with at the time, a small hole can be made, rust neutralizer sprayed extensively inside and then sealed with quicksteel and spot coated with POR15 or paint Also something to consider is that the mag cases are on par with the later models to rebuild, sometimes more. There may be leaks. No, there will be leaks. Someone one the board provided info of a product called "Oyltite"(UK?) to spot seal. The "T's" should have webbers or better yet PMO carburators, and of course the standard PPI will apply. The "E" does sound like a pretty good deal, and the MFI has a lot more zip, but each to their own. Good to find another early afficionado ![]() |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: South NJ
Posts: 2,516
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Go drive a bunch of cars and pay attention to the lack of creature comforts. As far as the different models go, at this age the treatment they've received is more important than whether it's an "E" or a "T".
I subscribe to the 2 car theory. One with good AC and heat, comfortable and reliable, decent radio, while the 911 has no radio, no AC, and a 2.2S motor with a sport muffler that sounds amazing at 7,000 rpm. If you've got the room for 2 cars and the ability to spend more time tinkering with an old car, go for it. |
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up-fixing der car(ma)
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Re:
IM(not so humble)O, any early car should stay basically the way it came, albeit with some modest improvements ie. Carrera tensioners, etc. 3.6 is alright too, in my mind, as long as whatever the car had originally can be put back if need be. However, on the issue of flares, I think the early cars' whole chassis should stay complete and original. If you want to do 3.6 implant and still maintain the early look, while simultaneously improving the P2W ratio, buy a '76 or '77. These 2 years have basically the best potential for fast cars because: They are galvanized unlike earlier, they came with the 2.7 (problematic), and you can backdate them to early style. You can install glass bumpers and fenders and do the flares no prob. That way, the glass lightens it even more than the original steel on the early cars. I would think that this combo would be extremely quick, yet civilized and modern enough for your 964 replacement. Just my $.02, please don't start a flame war!
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Scott Kinder kindersport @ gmail.com |
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MBruns for President
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OK, I am not sure the early car route is for me. I really don't think my wife would enjoy driving an early car. She likes her creature comforts and I think another 964 or 993 would be a better fit.
Maybe later in life when I have a little more time, I will enjoy bringing one back to life... Three young kids is not the ideal recipe for wrenching in a garage and keeping peace. So, I think I will pass this one on - great example though. 1970T $6,900 727-687-5013. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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MBruns for President
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Thought about that too YTNUKLR and I concur.
At this point - my wife would like a car we could both enjoy. She loved our last 964. Tons of power, yet sophistication and comfort too. I really don't plan on selling it so will probably go back that route or maybe a nice 993. After looking at a few early cars I am with you. I'm not sure they should be molested. Too pretty and pure. |
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