Trailing arms help

[78-911SC]

I'm wondering if it is possible to remove the ball joint that attaches to the swaybar. I'd like to use the setup that's on a SC.
Here is a file pic that has the ball attachment. Can it be removed? Is it threaded?

[A horse with no name]

Originally Posted by 78-911SC

I'm wondering if it is possible to remove the ball joint that attaches to the swaybar. I'd like to use the setup that's on a SC.
Here is a file pic that has the ball attachment. Can it be removed? Is it threaded?

I have never know of a 911 trailing arm that have ever had any ball joints...Maybe you are referring to something else?

[gjmascoli]

It's true, the swaybar links attach to a ball mounted on the trailing arm. I know not whether it can be removed.

[78-911SC]

Sorry but I'm referring to were the swaybar connects. If you look at the pics and got to the middle of the trailing arm you will see a little ball joint that the swaybar connects to. Is that removable so that I can change to the type of swaybars on the SC's. The SC's screw in.

[78-911SC]

Here is the SC version.

[chris_seven]

Why do you want to change the type of sway bar?

It is possible to find 15mm, 16mm and 18mm sway bars that work with these early style Aluminium Trailing arms and use simple drop links, so unless you already have an 18mm bar you could upgrade.

They work quite well as the mechanical advantage differs so the relative stiffness of the 18mm dia bar is quite high.

The pins are cast into place and will have to be cut and then machined to remove them.

If you really want to use a later sway bar it would be easier to sell them on as they are quite rare and then buy SC Arms.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by 78-911SC

I'm wondering if it is possible to remove the ball joint that attaches to the swaybar. I'd like to use the setup that's on a SC.
Here is a file pic that has the ball attachment. Can it be removed? Is it threaded?

I had similar predicament like yours with my '77S a few years ago. The ball joint post is embedded and casted to the aluminum trailing arm. You can not pull it out without ruining the trailing arm. Cutting it would be an option. And use the remnant of the steel pivot post for threading a smaller diameter bolt. Considering the amount of labor, I decided to save the older trailing arms and purchased a set of SC/Carrera trailing arms instead. And was able to sell the older TA at a decent price. You have to decide which way you like to go. However, if you are willing to spend the time and effort to cut the pivot posts and drill through them, it is doable. You won't be saving much by the time you are done converting the older TA if you consider the time and tools needed to do the job unless you got all the needed tools for the job. Just my two-cents.

Tony

[A horse with no name]

Sorry for my wrong understanding - As they say, you learn something everyday.
We currently own a '86 Carrera that I am currently rebuilding the rear suspension and the sway bar does not connect as yours does... We over the years have owned both a '70 and a '72 911 but they never required rear suspension rebuilds so hence I have never seen howthey connect.

If its of any interest to you, I did read an article on a site said that that these early 911's bracket's were prone to breakage. There claim that their is a replacement bracket that is much stronger.

[winders]

Why not do the real simple thing and buy an adjustable sway bar that attaches to the spring plate instead?

[78-911SC]

Thanks Chris and Tony. Couple of things going on. I already have a SC 18mm swaybar that I want to use and I also have two pairs of trailing arms. One the ball joint one has all the E-brakes and wheel studs and the other set the SC set has nothing. I thought if the ball joint came out it would save me some work. But now that you'll have clarified the issue I'll just move the E-brake and wheel studs to the SC arms. Thanks for the help

[frankc]

As others have stated, the ball post is cast into the Trailing Arm and cannot be (easily) removed. I went through a similar exercise several years ago when I wanted to move to larger OEM '86 bars in my '77, and ended up purchasing a set of later TAs.

There is thread on this topic: '77S to SC Drop Link Conversion Questions...

[78-911SC]

Excellent Frank. That covers exactly what I wanted to know. Wish I had found before. Thanks

[Charles Freeborn]

You can, but it's hardly worth it.
I switched the TA's on my '74 to the newer SC versions, if you're interested in seeing how:
And we're off! '74 Rear Suspension Rebuild
Bear in mind that the earlier sway bar is smaller diameter, so the mounts to the chassis are different too. My car was missing a mount, so when replacing I changed them both to the later SC style.
-C

[78-911SC]

Thanks Charles very good thread. I also will be adding mounting brackets since it's a 70. Did you just connect everything and hold up the sway bar to see where to weld the mounting brackets?

[Ferrino]

Tarrett sells drop-links that allow you to bypass the TAs and connect later factory swaybars directly to the spring plate. For me, that was an easier solution than swapping out a good set of TAs.

[Charles Freeborn]

I lined up the new RARB consoles with the mounting location of the originals. Once removed it was pretty easy to eyeball their location. Then I used a straight edge to fine tune. If your car never had sway bars you'll have to do some layout for proper location. WEVO techs can assist with layout.
The aftermarket sway bars do bypass the droplink mounting points, but if the car doesn't have chassis mounts you're back to that issue with the earlier mounts being N/A.
Be aware that changing to the later TA's requires changing output flanges, CV's etc. Since all 4 of my CV's were shot it turned out to be cheaper to upgrade to the later TA's, CV's etc.
-C

[78-911SC]

Ferrino thanks for info. Just went to Tarrett website and saw a drop-link but it didn't show how it is connected. Gave them a call but no answer, left message for a call back but no luck. Called back a second time but still no call back. By chance do you have a couple pics of your install?

Charles already have the new flanges and CV's for the change out.. Thanks for the heads up. From what I understand I'm going to need to make some adjustments to the TA's where the shock connects to the TA's. This is so the shock lines up in the shock tower correctly. But the car is stripped so I can play with it.

[Charles Freeborn]

With the Tarrett (& others) the sway bar connects to the spring plate.
My shocks lined up correctly (as far as I know) without modification to the TA's or shock towers. My car came factory with Bilstein inserts if that matters. The TA's appeared identical except for the drop link mount.
-C

[frankc]

Charles brings up a good point which I forgot to mention in that starting in '78 the bolt spacing for the rear sway bar mount increased to 66mm. So if you plan to use a larger bar and the '78+ bushings and clamps, you will need the later 66mm RARB consoles as well. As you probably know, the stamped steel OEM consoles tend to fail unless re-enforced, so you may want to consider the WEVO consoles.

Another (temporary) option is to run the earlier console, bushing and clamp, and hone out the bushing for the larger bar. I did this until I could get the new WEVO consoles welded in.

And regarding the mounting point for the drop link. My understanding is that manufacturers went with the spring plate mounting in order to provide a universal solution for the early (-77) and late (78+) cars. I don't believe there is any advantage to mounting the link at the spring plate (please chime in if you know of any). Also, if you order adjustable drop links from Elephant Racing and want to mount it to the later TA boss instead of the spring plate, call Chuck and he will supply the proper hardware in the kit to do so. This is the route I took as the TA was designed to accept the drop link, so why not use it? Let me know if you would like any photos of the setup.

-Frank

[78-911SC]

Thanks guys for all the help. I will be installing the WEVO mounting brackets which I have had for a while but not yet installed. Just having a difficult time visualizing how the drop-link installs to the spring plate. Not sure if I mentioned but my car is a 70T. I think thats were the issue of the shock towers come into play. Here is a link that explains it far better than I can. I'll be taking 1" off the TA.
http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars/911AlloySuspAll-a.pdf