Hey Sarge, I have an 84 as well...when the outside temp starts to cool down, my idle hunts, so I adjust the mixture a bit. Happens every year. Could be a minor vacuum leak.

Hi Rich,

My hunting was resolved by the changing of manifold gaskets, my latest issue was stalling when coming to a stop.

So between last night and this am, she stalled out multiple times at a stop and idle hunted on startup.:mad:
I brought her in and mechanic swapped out my recently cleaned ICV for a a good used ICV they had lying around. Out of first handful of stops she almost stalled twice, but since then and 130 miles later, seems to be spot on. Probably had 15 stops in a row that were perfect, and a couple perfect startups. Not sure why she almost stalled twice in beginning though. He said if this doesn't fix issue, then they will swap a dme.
Thoughts on why she almost stalled twice w/ the swapped ICV??

It's definitely not the ICV, she stalled a lot today
Anybody by chance, have one lying around in Hamptons for me to swap in and test?
If not, I was thinking of going to GPC across from MB in Southampton.

There are allot of 3.2s in your area, hopefully someone can swap your DME into their car to test it.

Do not buy parts until you find the culprit.

One thing to consider that happened to me.. Does the ignition switch have a lot of play when you move the key? Over time the contacts get worn and the car can just switch off. Can be very intermittent. How heavy is your key fob, enough to move key a little on stopping?

The electronic part on the rear of the switch can be replaced although it's a bit fiddly to get at. My symptoms were sudden stall with drop to zero on tach. It would always restart once key was cycled. Might be worth a look. It wears slowly over time so you don't really notice the slop where it was once tight.

I have about 1/2" play to either side of key when in ignition. Other day something odd ignition wise did happen. Starter was actually stuck on after the stall. Was an odd one time occurrence

Anybody have a video of how to change the DME?

Sarge,

The DME is the computer.
The DME relay is the part everyone's referring to.

I have a spare DME relay if you want to borrow it..
..I'm around today.... I'll PM you my cell.

It is located under the driver's seat.
To remove it, first slide the seat all the way back to loosen the nut. (10mm)
Then slide the seat forward to unplug the wiring harness from behind.

http://i60.tinypic.com/5jwnjn.jpg http://i58.tinypic.com/eb7pkz.jpg

Thanks Sugarwood, but it's not the relay, its actually DME (ECM)computer all are referring to.
I already changed the relay couple years ago for a non start issue.

Does anybody have even a pic of it's location, i can then figure out the removal myself.

It's also under the seat.
911Chips.com - Motronic Chip Installation Instructions

Looks like you can get your DME fixed for $400
http://www.911chips.com/motrepair.htm

Thanks Sid!!

Before you send it out to fix, ask a Pelican to help a brother out and out your DME into their car, start, check for warm up idle. drive off for 20 minutes, if warm enough, full throttle, and spec ilde at a stop, shut down and restart. If it passes all these steps your DME is good to go. If not, time for service.

I'm already planning on swapping a known good DME into my car to test. My mechanic is going to give it to me.

A rennlister said to check my cylinder head temp sensor and give him wire count. Where can I find it?

Here you go:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/6578-head-temperature-sensor-replacement.html

Thanks Kid,

if a DME swap fails, i'll look into this next!

No worries. You saw that the "wire count" means is it a 1 wire sensor (which grounds through the threads of the connection) or a "two wire" has a ground.

I did that job a few years ago. The best advice I got - to remove the old one, just cut the wire and use a deep socket. To install the new one, you don't need a lot of torque. I think I installed the new one with some long needlenose pliers.

I've read that if your car's flawed electrical is ruining the DME, you may just ruin the 2nd DME and not isolate the issue. As stated above, you might put your DME into a known working car to isolate if it's your DME. If your DME works in another car, then you know it's your car.

Good point Sid, are you offering to swap it into yours?:D
I actually took the DME w/ me from the Hamptons back to Westchester. If not, understood and no worries. I will figure it out w/ the mechanic in one of his cars.