As an update, I'm going to give mechanic my DME and he's giving me one of his.
He also mentioned in an e-mail, that the air gap on the crank sensor, could be causing the stalling, if it's not exactly .8 mm. Is that something I can check myself?

ICVs are a wear item, a "good used" one may have been good when it was removed, a few years of sitting may have converted it to a bad used one. My car exhibited all your symptoms, a new ICV from Rock Auto solved all the symptoms. If you are gonna throw parts at your car, new ones will remove unknowns.

This is good to know. One thing I noticed w/ the replacement issued ICV, is that as I would be driving, sometimes it would feel as if the cruise control kicked in. I've been having some sporadic throttle sticking under heavy off the line acceleration, but this is very different, since swapped ICV. I am going to swap in the "known good" DME from my mechanic and see if symptoms disappear, I also think he is going to put mine in his and see if it acts up on his car. If that's not the fix, I might explore a new ICV.

A new ICV these days is about $400. I bought a used one for $100 this spring.

So the plot thickens!!! After I reinstalled my good ICV, I put the "borrowed" good DME in from my mechanic. It ran worse!!!:banghead:
Idle hunted a little at start up and then during warm up, I noticed at idle, it would dip down low a few times and recover. Once I felt it was warmed up enough, I took her out. Almost immediately I noticed that once I laid on the throttle, the car would almost shut down! Sometimes it did completely and sometimes it would abruptly recover and snap my head back. It also would intermittently stall at stops / same issue as before. WTF?! Here's a pic of the DME, is it possibly from an '86-'89 and wouldn't work properly in my early 3.2?? I'm getting very frustrated now.......http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1451600756.jpg

I have just done this one on an 89 M491 car. Solved all the problems. Took a few steps to diagnose it.

I think that part number fits 84-89

Hey Berk,


I looked at my records and this was replaced a few months ago, when I originally mentioned an idle hunting issue. My mechanic is saying he now thinks the air gap is off in the crank sensor. He has a way of checking and adjusting w/o dropping the engine. However, I think it could also be a failure of the chip that I installed. I have the 2K version and here's a page from them, saying idle can hunt, etc. That still doesn't explain why the borrowed DME didn't work though...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1451949860.jpg

Just taking her out of storage and still having the stalling issue, she's due at shop on 4/11, to check the air gap sensor at the crank. Any thoughts on my previous post regarding the chip that was installed? Also, how does it make sense, that a good DME swap, actually made the car run worse? It was like when I will giving it throttle, the power would be low, then greatly surge. Very odd....

Going into shop tomorrow and starting to really notice that the weather plays a big part. When it's damp out, it stalls almost at every stop. Yesterday, bone dry 72 degrees and I drove her for 150 miles. Most of that was highway, yet she didn't stall once, after making a good 20 stops along the way. Got close a time or two, but no stalling. Thoughts???

So it sounds like humidity/moisture plays a role, which then sounds electrical to me.

What is the condition of the spark plug wires? Pop the engine lid and run the car in a dark garage. You'll see if the spark plug wires are grounding out somewhere.

Thanks and I will check this later, but just had all replaced w/ the 15k valve adjustment.

weather wise, could It have to do w/ them wanting to check the air gap on the crank sensor? They said if it's not exactly .8 mm, that could cause stalling. Maybe the bad weather days / air pressures being real off, wreak havoc like this if gap is off?

Does Gaspar know about your chip? I can't believe this is still going on.

I don't recall, but he will surely know tomorrow! I've been working with him directly and he suggested the crank sensor check. Maybe the chip will also have him look into that potential issue. However, I swapped in a good DME From another car, and my car ran erratically. That being said, I think it rules out a bad chip in my DME.
I hear you on the time frame, however, car was in storage since Nov, so a lot of down time....

FINALLY FIXED!!!http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat3.gif

After all the troubleshooting last summer into late fall and then after winter storage, It was the air meter! Swapped in a good used one and she's perfect now. Owner of shop was a gem (because I've been very patient thru this grueling process and a great customer) and didn't even charge me for any labor (hours to go thru eveything on the car to finally put this to rest)I walked out paying $150 for the part.:D
Thanks for all the help here and I hope this solves somebody else's problems!

Sarge, was it this part? Only $150?
I thought they are a lot more. Was it a used one?

http://car-bone.pl/wp-content/upload...rrera_32_2.jpg

That's the part sugar and yes it's used.

FWIW, these guys refurbish / rebuild AFMs...

Air Flow Meters - Bavarian Restoration

Glad to hear you hunted down, and captured, your issue. Gotta love the moment when frustration turns to elation!

For sure! This was a long time coming and I had to even stew over it this winter, while in storage. All set now!