Bad line + bad smell? Pic included...

[garment]

Hello Pelicans:

So, I was able to get my work complete, and I took a well-deserved drive...ah, what a gift to be able to go for a drive in DC in mind-December!

However, I don't like part of the outcome of the p-car work (mostly valve adjustment):

I've got a bad burning oil smell, but no leaks to be found. I've read that sometimes oil can find it's way into the heat exchangers and you just have to live with it for a bit? I went for a 30 mile drive, what's the over-under in mileage to clear the exchangers out if this is the problem?

Also - I am not really happy with the line I got - 930 107 348 11:



That jog to the left on the flexible part of the line looks like it could go at any time. Do I really want 930-107-348-12?

Thanks, Pelicans!

[steely]

Can't really answer the smell issue - but it took me a month or 3 to burn off the grease that my CV's threw.

On the line I would make a little record and solicit more feedback. I have a 3.2 and the lines are different than yours, but they all seemed to change. For your '83 (from your garage) I thought you should be using a 930-107-348-07 which as superseded to a 930-107-348-12, but I could be wrong. I thought the -11 was for a 3.2.

On edit:
I'd hate to be a source of bad info here, so I will refer you to an older (12 year) thread: Cam Oil Line.

My recollection is that at some point in the past, the tensioner was re-designed or something happened that forced a change to it, which required them changing the associated cam line. The situation gets compounded with the different model years.

The info I kept track of only goes back to '84, so since you have an '83, I'm going to say I should have kept my mouth shut.

An observation: - did you do an A/C delete? Because it looks like there is one remaining compressor stand bracket in the top of your photo. I removed mine and put the bolt back into the hole. Gives you a bit more room.

[Bob Kontak]

The line flow looks wonky and that stress point on the hose should not be present.

However, looks like a little tweaking of the hard lines could unload the stress.

You should not have to be doing that though.

[sugarwood]

Bob, can you explain where you are seeing a stress point anomaly?
The thick middle hose next to the finger? It doesn't appear kinked or anything.
Should it be straight and not in that mild "S" shape?

[Flat6pac]

Sometimes you have to make things right and move the tubing around. The hose needs to be straight to make the line last. If he had the correct heater hose in place he would need to tap the metal line at the cam banjo so he could run the 60mm hose through the hole in the sheet metal.
There is several renditions of the hose from each side. The last few years the gold hoses went away for the bright silver. What you need to match the bright cam line is the matching bright drop line to the tensioner...but then I can think of a whole lot of places I d rather spend $50 then on a drop line to the tensioner.
Bruce

[steely]

This one is an 930-107-348-11-M20 from a couple years ago on my 87.
I didn't need to bend anything.

[john walker's workshop]

Tweak the line until it's straight. I have to do it on just about all of them. Do it so the line doesn't interfere with removing the valve cover. FWIW, neither of the pics have a support bracket.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

Bob, can you explain where you are seeing a stress point anomaly?
The thick middle hose next to the finger? It doesn't appear kinked or anything.
Should it be straight and not in that mild "S" shape?

Not kinked but the lateral displacement (sideways "wonk") is not as it should be.

steely's pic looks happy. Why is the OP's chain box cover line 1/2' towards the front of the car relative to steely's pic.

Tweakage is probably the answer. JW has actual experience.

[garment]

Can you offer some tips to do the tweak? Can I do it while installed, maybe fit a small c-clamp in there to slowly bend the line? Is heat required - which type (propane I have, I'd have to get MAPP). I do have the support bracket, it's hidden below the SCEET...

Thanks!

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

Tweak the line until it's straight. I have to do it on just about all of them. Do it so the line doesn't interfere with removing the valve cover. FWIW, neither of the pics have a support bracket.