This is the pillar mount I purchased from eBay a couple years ago. Due to the narrow profile of the early 911 A-pillar, none of the current aftermarket pillar-mount gauge holders work.

Unfortunately, this one isn't currently listed on ebay

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1572547380.jpg

... found it here with updated pricing:
Porsche 911 pillar pod gauge kit - 9xauto

Sherwood
(no affiliation)

Why not simply put it in the clocks position..... who needs a clock?

The clock position is okay, but a gauge closer to one's line of sight (at or near eye level on the A pillar) is easier to monitor. Glancing at the tach, speedo ... or clock is one thing, but it's more convenient to monitor the A/F change at various speeds while keeping eyeballs on the road.

Maybe the next version will feature a heads-up display. :)

MHO,
Sherwood

I liked the idea someone had about putting it in the glove box. I like to keep the cockpit as original as possible. I don’t feel that I would watch it all the time. Maybe once in a while to ensure it is still in tune. Is it really that much of a problem that it must be continuously monitored? Genuinely asking. Anyone else have photos of their install?

I've tried those in other cars and found them to be a distraction and as much of a look away as the clock area.....not as 'neat' either.
I get originality but on my car that went out the window a long time ago...

Here's my AEM wide band on the A pillar of my 914. I guess I prefer monitoring the fuel delivery.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1572675979.jpg

Sherwood

Well, I pulled the trigger and bought an AEM 30-0300. I chose this one due to the larger digital display and the wider AFR range (8-22).

sal,
After reading your comments, looks like I’ll be running in Open Loop since I do not have a cat. From what it looks like, all I need is the O2 signal, power and ground in order to run the gauge. I have a SW chip in it now, but I would like to complete the preliminary checks that you recommend prior to getting your injector/DME tuning setup that you offer. What steps would you suggest in order to get the car tuned and ready?

I have an M&K per-muffler, M&K 1 in 1 out sport muffler and cams ground to C2 specs along with the 91 octane SW chip.

How did all of you route the wideband wire bundle alongside the main harness? The hole & grommet seem very 'full' already, I have not been able to squeeze anything through. I'd like to avoid drilling another hole in the pan if possible. Wondering if I am missing something silly. Wiring is not my strong suit ...

The AEM harness side that plugs into the gauge has a small white connector so you will route the harness from under the car into the cabin.

In the cabin pull the large grommet for the main harness into the cabin. Then slice the grommet with a razor (carefully) then route harness into the cabin and put the gauge haress into the slice you just made in the grommet.

Then simply push the grommet back into the hole in the body.

I have found that slicing the grommet that has the main engine harness in it is the best method to do this and allows you to drill no extra holes.

Great thread. Just ordered a AEM (30-4110) for my build.

Thanks,
Ian

Ian - I followed Sal's advice during install of the harness. Had to slice the grommet, but ran through that access point. Put the grommet back as best I could working from inside, then used Eastwood dum dum firewall putty to seal it all up. I ended up adding a 2nd bung for the WBO2 sensor and JBell made a triple gauge with AFR for me. Looks like it was always there.

FWIW, I fretted over this install, and once I got to it, it took 2 hours end to end with 30-40 minutes of that just thinking and looking. I made jumpers from the other gauges to power the AFR, and ran the AEM power and ground up to the fuse block and tied in there from behind, and used the ground on the fender. Harness can up under the driver's seat, then under the carpet and drive footwell blower to the front left dash.

Thanks for the info Chris!

Hoping to get this installed when Im back from the F1 Vegas circus. My car's been in need of some fine tuning and hoping this will help me get rid of all my idle gremlins once I get the idle set with proper AFRs

I'm going to do the white wire to the green stock wire setup, since my car has a CAT and I want to have the DME know it's not in open loop.

May even put my bypass on once I'm happy w the CAT setup and see what that does for me if I run open loop with the O2 sensor like ROW cars.

I run two AEM 02s, as well. They work great.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1699897259.jpg

I still have the O2 sensor, and added the bung for the WBO2 - in a Dansk Pre-muffler. So I left that alone - Sal will wade in and say it is not necessary, and I have no basis to disagree with him. I do not miss the CAT, but the car is definitely smellier :)

If you are trying to tie back into the DME, recommend getting someone smarter than me to assist in wiring and connections!

Idling has many influences - ICV, vacuum leaks, FPR, Damper, plugs, rotor, wires, ground.

I've replaced everything aside from the ICV, and have a new FPR new in box that I need to slap in there as well.

Did a smoke down test last week and found a really bad leak in the brake booster line, but everything else is tight as can be.

Fingers x'd that I can get things sorted and just enjoy some cruising.

FYI for cars with speedo cables: I threaded my O2 sensor wiring through the boot around the speedo cable. Convenient and good enough.

Found another neat product for mounting 2" gauges. Can get this in 1 gauge or 2 gauge configuration.
Check sierra madre website search for "Gauge Mount"

Pricey but look really good.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1713543804.JPG

Have seen a couple of cars with gauge in place of ash tray and it almost appears to made for the location. That is where I wedge my Continental microphone between the dash and knee pad for hands free calls.